So I thought my week was going pretty good, almost too good. Besides probably failing a math test, I seem to have blocked the girl I liked out of my thoughts, The right Chromes came for the front of my car, I got a new HO Nameplate, and had enough cash to buy my oil wich is 100 bucks a case. Anyway I go to pick my mom up from work because we had to put a new starter in her car, I get there after being informed 10 minutes before I had to be there that she wanted me to pick up some Mcdonalds. I make it there barely on time and my car is cranking the heat so I turned it down and cracked both the windows. The passenger side does not go back up. FML. Anyway my car is in the garage right now to see if warming up will help any. If not I have to pull the door panel and manually push the window up. The gears are new in that side too, but seeing as how neither switch would raise it it must be the motor. Next do i get the ford motor at 100 bucks or one of the replacements for 30. Im also going to buy the lock actuator too, any ideas on were to get that? Oh yeah its 20 degrees maybe out, and snowing. I also have to work both saturday and sunday, so if I cant get this fixed I have to take the olds to work. Granted it has a new starter but the carb is going and its stuck on high idle 20mph. Oh yeah you have to put it in park and rev it to keep from stalling at lights. Fantastic. When I do the replacement ill make sure to take pics though, at least someone can benefit from it.
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
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REALLY GUYS?
"Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Slam the door, see if the motor goes. If it does, the brushes are tired and you'll eventually need a new motor if you're not handy with rebuilding electric motors. If you are, a trip to the hardware store or wherever you can get brushes for a size comparison should get you fixed up nicely. If you've already got the door panel off, just reach inside and give the motor a good thwack while holding the switch and see if it doesn't go. The Ford motors are nothing special. Of the 4 on my car, only one has been replaced, its a Ford reman motor, and you get one guess which window I have problems with. If you get a replacement from the auto parts store, it'll probably be the much smaller new style motor, but those actually seem to work a little better.
I do like OEM lock actuators though. I've been finding them on ebay but if you can get a new Ford replacement, it may be a worthwhile thing if the price isn't stupid.Last edited by gadget73; 01-08-2010, 11:02 PM.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
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Ill pay the price if it keeps me from having to replace it every year, Im hoping things are thawed out in an hour and im going to try to get the window up and order the parts, re manufactured window motors are like 30 bucks so I think ill go that route. Anyway from what I hear the Chinese actuators dont last. Maybe ill call ford tomorrow and see if there price isnt absurd."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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usually the window motor thing isn't temperature, its just wear. I keep rebuilding those things until they just won't go. Sometimes theres plenty of brush material left, but the commutator is dirty. A quick polish with some 800 grit sandpaper or scotchbrite usually sorts it out nicely.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
It went right up once it was warmed up ( not to say that isnt just blind luck ) but I think im going to order the re furb as I dont know how to re build an electric motor, although I should as I own a few nice rc cars. Anyway that and a lock motor and I should be all set.
On a side not I ran some Chevron with Techron fuel system cleaner through my tank last fill up. Works really well. Plus with the new mufflers, The car used to hesitate when you stepped on it, but now it just gets up and goes, never used to throw me back in the seat like it does, and it sounds amazing. I am very happy atm. There must have been some good sludge in that system though, cause it used to almost starve if you let off the gas after accelerating fast, now its smoother than a babies bottom. I just thought that was how the cars were."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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I know the problem fixed itself but...
When you rolled the p.side window down and it did not go back up anymore could you still get it to go down more? If so it was your window switch fucking up. Had that happen to me..Window could go down all it wanted but not come back up.
If this is what is happening to you a quick fix is to just reverse the power going to the motor to get it back up again.
I just sanded the contacts of my master window switch and everything is good again. This happened in June and it did not come back since.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Nope wouldnt go either way, and that window is staying up till spring when I can deal with outside temp to swap motors, and a lock actuator at the same time."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Okay..yeah it is definitely the motor brushes. I work on my car everyday in this cold. :p~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Originally posted by 87gtVIC View PostOkay..yeah it is definitely the motor brushes. I work on my car everyday in this cold. :p"Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Don't put the windows down all the way. Sure sign of screwing yourself royally when they don't go up. I'd be willing to bet the nylon balls in there are in about a million pieces. I've had all of my motors bind up like that. Thains slamming of the door normally gets the window freed up and it will move. Though the only way I could get the most recent one up was beating on the motor itself. The parts stores sell a kit for the window motors, it consists of a big gear, the balls, and the drive gear that contacts the window regulator. It goes for like 20 bucks. All you have to do is get the motor out, and get the cover off and you can replace the failed part.
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Originally posted by 86VickyLX View PostDon't put the windows down all the way. Sure sign of screwing yourself royally when they don't go up. I'd be willing to bet the nylon balls in there are in about a million pieces. I've had all of my motors bind up like that. Thains slamming of the door normally gets the window freed up and it will move. Though the only way I could get the most recent one up was beating on the motor itself. The parts stores sell a kit for the window motors, it consists of a big gear, the balls, and the drive gear that contacts the window regulator. It goes for like 20 bucks. All you have to do is get the motor out, and get the cover off and you can replace the failed part."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Yeah those nylons were f**d up."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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