Calling all Electrical Wizards and Geniuses.

[gadget73]

I wouldn't be using a single 5 pin relay for this. I'd either use the DPDT relay so the horn and lights aren't tied together, or use two 5 pins to get the same effect. If you tie them together like you drew up, every time you switch the lights on the horn will stay blowing, and when you honk the horn the lights will flash.

You'll likely get a flash and a honk whenever you turn the key on since it locks that way too. Not much to be done for that unless you want to make this really complex and figure some way of switching feed power off to the relays when the key is on, and allowing them to be powered with key off. WOuld take some studying on the wiring harness to figure how to pull that off.

[87gtVIC]

Yeah now that you mention that the horn/light fiasco would happen I will definitely not tie them together.

And I really like the function when you turn the key on and the doors lock so I will be figuring out a way to kill power...or ground to the relays when the key is on. I actually have a similar set up in my car at the moment where I turn my key on and I lose ground to my flashing LED in my speedo cluster, and with the key off I gain back that ground to complete the LEDs circuit where the positive lead is always hot:

Example of the flashing LED:



Using the theory behind my flashing LED I believe I can control when my other relays...horn and lights get grounded i.e only when the car would be off and not when it is on. I haven't thought of it much yet, but this just came to mind. Now I gotta draw everything up and see if it all meshes nicely.

[GoodSamaritan]

Yup! Two separate relays, or a double pole. Hmm that sounds familiar...

[87gtVIC]

Yup! Two separate relays, or a double pole. Hmm that sounds familiar...

:p

Thanks for everyone's help thus far.

[87gtVIC]

Okay I believe I have every settled. I even added some other cool feature (can anyone see what it is?). Not sure if everything will work once its connected. But in theory everything should work, and I hope my car does not go up in flames.

[Smokestacklightnin]

Looks like John Madden's diagrams. LOL

[GoodSamaritan]

Okay I believe I have every settled. I even added some other cool feature (can anyone see what it is?). Not sure if everything will work once its connected. But in theory everything should work, and I hope my car does not go up in flames.

Looks like you have it set up to power the relays through that purple wire. I assume that it's hot while locking/unlocking the car through the remote. It also looks like you've tied it to the delayed lighting...

[86VickyLX]

This reminds me of the time I wired in my autolamps. Loads of fun! double pole double throw relay would probably be the best thing to use, to simplify wiring and make everything fit in smaller amount of space.

[87gtVIC]

Looks like John Madden's diagrams. LOL

yeah its a mess.

Looks like you have it set up to power the relays through that purple wire. I assume that it's hot while locking/unlocking the car through the remote. It also looks like you've tied it to the delayed lighting...

Yep sort of... the purple wire will be NOT HOT when the ignition is on (so my horns and lights do not flash when i turn on the car because the purple wire automatically locks and unlocks the doors with ignition) and will be hot when the car is off. I ca the relay with the ignition wore going to it the master relay because it will be controlling when ground is given to the other three relays coils through the master relays normally closed position. And yeah delayed lighting with the click of the unlock button. My car has it where you lift the door handle and the lights stay on for 25 seconds and it then turns off. I am hoping that i can get it to work with the remote's unlock switch.

This reminds me of the time I wired in my autolamps. Loads of fun! double pole double throw relay would probably be the best thing to use, to simplify wiring and make everything fit in smaller amount of space.

bah four relays aren't that big.

[87gtVIC]

lol at "4rta dave" tag...JOHN!!

I seem to have a problem with my wiring diagram concerning my illumination relay....Just thinking about it now it looks as if it will still trigger the lights when the key is turned off. I have more thinking to do.

[86VickyLX]

should illuminate for 15 seconds and then go out. Unless the key has been turned in the ignition. You are talking about the interior illumination right?

[87gtVIC]

Yeah..talking about the interior illumination. My problem is that when I turn off my car my doors automatically UNLOCK. Now. how I have my relays wired that would mean that my master relay would give ground to my illumination relay triggering it because my UNLOCK signal from the brain would be triggered by the ignition turning off. At least that is how I view it. Because of this I just started mocking up three relays (master, horn and parking lights) If these even work, maybe in the future I will attempt to get the timer illumination lights to trigger with the UNLOCK button on my remote and not have it triggered by turning off the car.




just the picture for reference of this page.

[86VickyLX]

The way you have those relays wired, when you energize the master relay, nothing will work. And the rest of the time, the horn will sound, the parking lights will always be on, and so will the interior lights. Now. I have a solution for your delay for your interior lights, just got to find the damn page.

[87gtVIC]

Take a harder look at the diagram John. The master, horn and parking lights are wired up perfectly. Don't get confused by the lock signal wire coming from the brain as a constant power leaving the coil always open. The door lock signal wire will only receive power when i press my remote. Just take a step back and you will notice that.

And I am all ears for the interior lighting solution.

[86VickyLX]

Ok, for the lights, here's what you'll need, if the process works the same for the mock up for the delay on my custom autolamps. This resistor, http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...7983&x=31&y=11 or one with the same values of tolerance and whatnot, should give you 30 seconds of light for delay. Basically, if you are trying to keep the relay engaged for longer, to keep the lights on, hook this bad boy up on the ground side of the relay, aka 85, and it should give you 30 seconds of illumination. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...7983&x=31&y=11 Though the only problem I see, is this delay will always be on. The best person to ask about all of this would be Dereck, since he straightened me out with my auto lamps, he should be able to help you.