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what battery are you using?

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    #46
    Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic View Post
    ive had nothing but bad experiences with auto-lite, exide, and ac-delco batteries...but then again i dont think you guys blast your system all god damned day like i do lol. this one time i went through 3 brand new exide batteries in a matter of 5-6 hours...i wanted to see if they would put up with my system being turned all the way up(engine off of course)...and they didnt. so recently i was having issues with my battery(was dying out again) and went ahead and bought myself a nice(expensive) yellow top optima. ever since ive had it, i leave my system turned on full blast while working on my brothers cv and when i go to start it up....fires right up....love that thing!
    quite the contrary i do blast my system when i have one in my car never had a batt go dead but then again i ve never had anything over 800 w but thats going to change this year im getting a hifonics amp but still deciding on subs though
    89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

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      #47
      Originally posted by zoomie View Post
      quite the contrary i do blast my system when i have one in my car never had a batt go dead but then again i ve never had anything over 800 w but thats going to change this year im getting a hifonics amp but still deciding on subs though

      i see...thats why youre not going through batteries like i am...im putting out at least 2,400 watts rms...so i just went ahead and bought myself an optima...

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        #48
        Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
        Are car batteries just a case of needing to buy one big enough that it'll power all of your stuff?
        weeeelll. yes and no. The rating on the battery is for cranking amps. The only thing the battery is *supposed* to do is provide engine start power, and thats all the ratings are actually useful for. All your crap is supposed to be handled by the alternator's output, but the battery does provide power during high demand idle conditions, or whenever the alternator just can't keep up. The ability to run crap all day with the engine not running and still start would be an amp-hour rating, but almost nobody publishes that figure.

        Basically an amp-hour rating is simply how long you can pull how many amps for. Example, 100AH means you can pull 100 amps for an hour, or 1 amp for 100 hours. Multiply the load by the time, and thats your amp hour figure. Batteries with a very high CCA value typically don't have spectacular AH ratings, and stuff with really high AH ratings often have a lower CCA. Its just how the battery is designed, basically you have a lot of power for a short time, or less power for a long time. I'm not a battery engineer so I don't know how they differ internally though.
        Last edited by gadget73; 06-24-2009, 06:48 PM.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #49
          Thanks for the explanation!
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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