Originally posted by 1987cp
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85HPP 3G alternator install
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Originally posted by 86VickyLX View PostI got lazy and threw the charge wire on the battery terminal. I have too much stuff on that solenoid as it is.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Can I reuse old charge wire to link the alt to the battery? I am having a hell of a time finding any 4 or 6 gauge wire anywhere around here. Every place I go to looks at me like I have 10 heads when I ask for it.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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No, you can't use the old charge wires. They're not large enough. Either fish the charge cable out of the donor Taurus, or go get a starter cable with ring terminals on both ends. SHould be on the shelf with the other battery cables, same thing used to connect the starter relay to the starter.
As for unhooking the old charge wires, if you can do it and nothing goes dead, go for it. Some cars if you unhook it at the starter relay, you lose the lights and other things, but on some cars you don't. Seems to depend on the year exactly how they ran the fuse links.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostNo, you can't use the old charge wires. They're not large enough. Either fish the charge cable out of the donor Taurus, or go get a starter cable with ring terminals on both ends. SHould be on the shelf with the other battery cables, same thing used to connect the starter relay to the starter.
As for unhooking the old charge wires, if you can do it and nothing goes dead, go for it. Some cars if you unhook it at the starter relay, you lose the lights and other things, but on some cars you don't. Seems to depend on the year exactly how they ran the fuse links.
Oh, so the ring terminals will already be on it? I didn't know a starter cable was an actual thing, just assumed it was big wire with ring terminals attached on either end.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
As for unhooking the old charge wires, if you can do it and nothing goes dead, go for it. Some cars if you unhook it at the starter relay, you lose the lights and other things, but on some cars you don't. Seems to depend on the year exactly how they ran the fuse links.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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I do not have access to the Taurus this 3g came from. I will be ebaying this stuff or getting whatever I can locally.
Can I get a long enough starter cable and just split it in two and stick a fuse in there?sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Originally posted by 1990LTD View PostI do not have access to the Taurus this 3g came from. I will be ebaying this stuff or getting whatever I can locally.
Can I get a long enough starter cable and just split it in two and stick a fuse in there?
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Gotcha. Thanks. This is going to be an adventure...hell, the wire and fuse are going to cost me more than the alternator did!sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Originally posted by 1990LTD View PostOh, so the ring terminals will already be on it? I didn't know a starter cable was an actual thing, just assumed it was big wire with ring terminals attached on either end.
The cheapest and easiest way to fuse your charging cable is probably to get one a MegaFuse like I showed you a pic of in that other thread. Just attach the fuse directly to the starter solenoid and hook the charge cable to the fuse, or if there's lots of clearance you could probably attach the fuse directly to the charging stud on the alternator instead.
I have to say, it sounds pretty crazy to me to attach a charging cable to the nut at the battery terminal. That little nut and bolt aren't really intended to do anything but hold the terminal together, and it's usually easier to just take the nut off your starter solenoid anyway. I would think that such a "shortcut" is just asking to have junk spark against the hood and maybe chafe excessively as well, without actually saving you any work. But, it's your car...2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Well, forgive my ignorance, but I must be thinking the starter solenoid is something else. Could anyone post an engine bay shot with a big stupid arrow pointing to it?sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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and correct me if I am wrong (which is likely), but if I am running to the starter solenoid instead of just the post. battery terminal, do I just retain the cable that's already between the solenoid and battery?sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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To spell it out, yes, you retain the cable that goes from the solenoid to the battery, because that's sort of your positive battery cable, and everything in the car connects to the solenoid stud that receives power from that cable.
I'm not finding a good pic handy (I could take one but I'm not at home at the moment), but it's the mostly-cylindrical looking plastic thing bolted to the passenger side fender immediately aft of the battery. It has two biggish copper studs on either side of it, either sticking out the sides or lower down, facing out. Your positive battery cable goes directly to the stud you need to be concerned about, alongside some other junk; the only thing attached to the other stud is the starter cable, which looks like a battery cable but disappears down the inner fenderwell, through a small bracket on the framerail (normally), and then disappears back under the exhaust manifold toward the starter.
You'll need either a 1/2" or 9/16" socket; remove the nut from the stud that the battery cable goes to, and remove everything from that stud. Separate out the wires that go forward into the header panel, go around and turn on your headlight switch, and touch each of those wires to the positive battery terminal until you find the one that powers the headlights. Put that one back on the stud, followed by the positive battery cable and everything that goes toward the rear of the car, and add your MegaFuse with your new alternator charging cable attached. That should be about it!2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Damn, did you ever spell it out for me, thanks a million! Like I've been saying, I am a complete n00b to car inner workings, reading stuff like that is wonderful. I didn't know that was my positive battery cable, or even that the solenoid is what powers a lot of other crap. Thanks.
Do I disconnect the positive battery cable from the batt before doing any of this fun stuff?Last edited by 1990LTD; 09-07-2009, 08:19 PM.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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