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85HPP 3G alternator install

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    #16
    what pray tell is that thing behind the battery?

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      #17
      That be the aero fuse/relay box that I hard wired the headlights/foglights/entire car into.





      This is an Archive of info for vacuum, electrical, HVAC and CFI specific info - *read only*
      Last edited by 85crownHPP; 04-19-2009, 04:15 PM.
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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        #18
        since i am not allowed to post in your fuse box thread i will ask here.

        That fuse box you installed is taking place of just fusible links and such.....like things JUST under the hood. OR is it also taking place of the fuse box under the steering column? I really like what you did...and if i am feeling brave enough once and have all of the correct resources i wouldnt mind venturing into a project like that.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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          #19
          whats the one on the drivers side?

          Comment


            #20
            vacuum box i believe????
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #21
              yes the drivers side one is the 90-91 vacuum box and ecm/fuel pump relay box.

              Dave, the box I installed only replaces the fuse links at the starter solenoid - one of which powers the interior fusebox which is still there. No way Im going to re-wire that one!
              The MAXI fuses each replace a fuse link, two of them power the headlight relays and two mini fuses power the fog light relays. I can add more mini fuses later for powering other things too, like more LEDs!!
              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
              sigpic
              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

              Comment


                #22
                This is all very very intriguing.
                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                Comment


                  #23
                  Interesting factoid, all of the in-car power comes through one fuse link. If you short the thermal blower lockout wiring out, it can burn the fuse link for that which causes you to lose ignition power among other things. I found this out when it happened to me in CHicago. I've still got speaker wire rigging the fuse link back together.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #24
                    forgive my n00bage and thread resurrecting, but...

                    I also learned that you need the warning lamp circuit for the thing to charge... I knew you do for our original alternators, but I didn't know a 'hot wired' 3G needed it to charge. When i started it up it didn't charge until I made a quick-jump for the warning lamp circuit...

                    Is that just the green wire (I) you're talking about? I just know the only wire you need from the 2G is the green one. I don't know WTF a warning lamp is, though.
                    Last edited by 1990LTD; 09-04-2009, 01:46 PM.
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Yup, that's the one. Stock wiring goes from the ignition switch, I think through the fuse panel, through the "ALT" warning lamp in the dash, and then out to the plug at the alternator. It will also work to just wire your new alternator harness in to any ignition-hot source, such as whatever you have in place to energize your ignition system, though obviously that will defeat your stock in-dash warning light.

                      One thing I don't know is where the yellow wire from the regulator goes to in a factory-stock harness. The old install on my car just had it going to the charging post, and that worked fine.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                        #26
                        nah I shall keep the warning light. It sounds a touch complicated in the wiring but all I've gotta do on the alternator end is connect new green to old green? I ebayed a 2g to 3g conversion plug type of thing because I am not confident enough in my own wiring skills to do it all myself. plug n play is good.



                        I am still unclear on how to connect the green on the new harness to the existing green in the car. Connecting wires is greek to me
                        Last edited by 1990LTD; 09-04-2009, 02:16 PM.
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I'd probably just use a butt connector from the hardware store or home improvement center. Can probably pick up a cheap stripper-crimper tool for under 10 bucks in the same aisle. The connectors are color-coded by wire size; the red ones will probably work for this application. If you want to be fancy, get some heat-shrink tubing and put that over the wire first, then remove the insulation from your butt connector and solder it after crimping, and then apply the heat-shrink tubing. Actually, heat-shrink is a good idea anyway, even if you don't solder the connection, as it helps keep moisture out of the joint. Don't know about in Kanadia, but around here I can usually get heat shrink at a hardware store or parts store, and Harbor Freight has at least 3 or 4 different options.

                          If you want to be redneck about it, you can always strip the wires with a knife and use a wire nut, but that's not real highly recommended. :p
                          Last edited by 1987cp; 09-04-2009, 03:29 PM.
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            All of this is greek to me - I am trying to figure out how to connect wires w/o solder..I've got the crimping tool and some connectors I got from work (Uhaul outlet). I gather that you put the wires in opposite ends, but, how do they stay there?
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I have a pile of these




                              That's what I'm talking about..how the crap do they stay in there?
                              sigpic


                              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                              Comment


                                #30
                                you need one of these


                                or a big pair of pliers and sqeeze real hard with the wire stripped back about a 1/4".

                                when dad did his mark vii he didn't what to cut up the origanal wiring so he just used a spade connector on the green wire from the alterntor and plugged it into the geen wire on the regulator plug and taped it real good. so if he ever wanted to go back everthings there.
                                ---1990 Lincon LSC., 5.0 H.O., 55,000 ORIG. miles, 3:73 Posi, Bullit rims, 3G alt., 2.5" full-back exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, Flowmaster mufflers. My DD
                                ---1985 Grand Marquis 2-door., Fresh 5.0, slick-top, GT40P's, 1.7 RR's, FRPP headers, 3G alt., Weiand Stealth intake, 650 cfm holley, 2.5" side-exit exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, 3:55 Posi, Bucket seats, custom center console. My Toy

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