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I don't know if I'm spelling that right. It's that foamy crap that builds up at the terminals of car batteries. The CV gets it pretty bad and I don't know why. Is there any way to prevent it from forming?
clean the posts good and coat with something like vasoline... (i use paint sometimes) also tape a few pennies to top of the battery and corrosion buildup will go to the pennies instead.
wal-mart uses the corrosion stuff... i have still seen corrosion on batteries that were treated. unless you keep engine area cleaned and also depends on the area you live.
i have seen car batteries in autozone being sold with corrosion on top of them already.
fixed that for you.
Neutralize it with a mix of baking soda and water. Once it stops fizzing, rinse the battery off with clean water and be sure to get any acid or baking soda residue off the battery tray and the surrounding area. Once its clean, you can use some of that protectant stuff, or just dielectric grease or whatever to prevent exposure to the air. I'd also suggest making sure the battery isn't overcharging, since that can cause the acid to boil out of the battery like that.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
one tidbit about the pennies, make sure they are pre 1982. It sounds silly, but newer pennies arent made out of copper anymore. They are zinc with a thin copper plating. Once the plating is gone, so is your protection from corrosion.
Instead of tape, try a spot of superglue, or contact cement. Put one penny next to each terminal and they will act as sacrificial anodes. In other words they will corrode, and your terminals will stay nice and clean.
Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.
Axle codes
Open/Lock/Ratio #
-----------------------
G / H / 2.26
B / C / 2.47
8 / M / 2.73
7 / - / 3.07
Y / Z / 3.08
4 / D / 3.42
F / R / 3.45
5 / E / 3.27
6 / W / 3.73
2 / K / 3.55
A / - / 3.63
J / - / 3.85
these made in china battery cables and terminals have inferior lead terminals
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
Thanks for the advice guys. I have those dry felt washers on there right now, but I will try to get those gooey washers. I will also get some grease or vaseline.
I mainly use dialectric grease, but vaseline also works well. Every so often I use the post cleaner brush and put some on and it keeps them nice and clean. When it used to get gunky we'd used the baking soda method.
sigpic
1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.
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