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    #31
    Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
    Interesting! Is this with a stock starter or a high-torque unit?
    the 306 has a factory hi-torque, ive got a powermaster hi torque
    http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
    http://secondhandradio.com/

    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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      #32
      Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
      Hmm I have another question for you guys now. Isn't the orginal equipment battery around 500 sumthing CCA? So why did you guys choose to go with such a heavy duty battery?
      From my experience with all the powered accessories on my car like all the lighting, pwr seats, pwr windows, electricity whore rear defroster, and so on. It seemed like the output definitely didn't meet the demand in the case of the battery and the 2g alt. Upgrading both will eliminate the constant dimming and flickering you get. I think the larger battery complements the 3g well, and increases overall reliability. The Deka battery I have now has 930 CCA.
      sigpic
      1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
      Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
        Hmm I have another question for you guys now. Isn't the orginal equipment battery around 500 sumthing CCA? So why did you guys choose to go with such a heavy duty battery?
        It was the one that Costco recommended for my particular vehicle. Several different manuals for different cars I've come across say that you should generally consider replacing a battery (especially if it's pretty old) with one that has a higher rating. 20-30 year old wiring often has higher resistance than newer wiring, and bigger batteries can often help overcome that resistance.
        Originally posted by gadget73
        There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
        91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
        93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
        Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
        Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
        95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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          #34
          Originally posted by Grandmarchris View Post
          Side Terminal batteries= teh suck
          Anyone care to explain why side terminal batteries Blow?

          All the STB's I have experience with, the terminals corrode about 10X slower than the regular top terminal batteries.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by LTDMan83 View Post
            All the STB's I have experience with, the terminals corrode about 10X slower than the regular top terminal batteries.
            Huh. I did not know this, but I work on few STB cars. Anybody wanna hazard a guess as to why?
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

            Comment


              #36
              Good info! Almost makes a person want to consider swapping to side-terminal battery cables (my DieHard has both sets of terminals, though the Interstate does not).
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

              Comment


                #37
                I *hate* side terminal batteries. Ever try and jump start a vehicle withy one? I've also never had any corrosion problems with my top post batteries. Never used any special tricks or those felt washer things or any of that. Its just never been a problem. If for some reason you are having corrosion problems, wash the battery with a water and baking soda solution to neutralize any acid, and the problem goes away.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #38
                  Huh .. I shall have to try the baking soda wash. Dashed handy stuff, that. That battery post cleaner spray from the parts stores doesn't seem to do much.

                  Incidentally, I've had little luck with those felt washers actually preventing corrosion on my junk ... maybe it has something to do with what I buy and where and how I use it.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by LTDMan83 View Post
                    Anyone care to explain why side terminal batteries Blow?

                    All the STB's I have experience with, the terminals corrode about 10X slower than the regular top terminal batteries.
                    1. They are a bitch to do work/jumpstarts on
                    2. The bolts get soft and you can round them off easily
                    3. The actual terminals themselves get soft and can be stripped out easily
                    Last edited by Grandmarchris; 05-16-2008, 09:08 AM.
                    R.I.P Linsey Nelson

                    '04 M75-"Chocolate Rain" - mid 13 beast
                    Originally posted by MeanVic84
                    Chocolate Rain. Some stay dry and others feel the pain.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      yea internal thread in lead is not a good idea lol

                      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                        #41
                        Just another wonderfull Chevrolet innovation..
                        R.I.P Linsey Nelson

                        '04 M75-"Chocolate Rain" - mid 13 beast
                        Originally posted by MeanVic84
                        Chocolate Rain. Some stay dry and others feel the pain.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                          yea internal thread in lead is not a good idea lol
                          +1. My brother's Seville has the side terminals; a PITA to put the terminals on, and probably a PITA to jump it. But, as long as you aren't trying to be a he-man when you tighten the terminals down, there shouldn't be an issue.
                          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Never had any of those problems and I've been working with them for years on people's GM products.

                            I've jumped off STB vehicles many times, nothing hard about it. When it comes to jump starting the STB cars which are tight on space, almost all the cars are made to have the Positive Terminal bolt head accessible even if the negative is hidden,so all you gotta do is attach the Positive to the Post bolt head, and the Negative to any metal Grounding point on or near the engine, and your done, couldn't be any easier.


                            My cars Eats Positive battery cables at an alarming rate, obviously anybody knows to try the water and baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Never has worked even once on this car. I go through a positive terminal every 3 months, I've tried it all, it's getting kind of old.

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                              #44
                              Sounds like you have other problems. Is the cable itself any good? If you're just putting new ends on the old cable, try replacing the whole thing. They're pretty cheap, its only a foot long. I replaced my original 1986 cable when I did the engine swap in 2005. It was still in OK shape, but I didn't want any problems. DId the ground cable at the same time. End was fine, but I had to cut it to get the engine out, the bolt on the side of the block was stuck and I didn't feel like fighting with it.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #45
                                My terminals have always been alright. Over the years it's had a little gunk buildup with a few tough starts. The baking soda trick worked whenever it happened. Now, I just use the round metal brush/ battery post cleaner every once and awhile and smear some dielectric grease on them. The newest cables I put on have the protective boot thing at the posts.
                                sigpic
                                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                                Comment

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