This has bugged me for years. I have no 12V+ at the column that is switched, and stays hot, when the car is cranking. So, I cannot hook up my Crane HI-6 ignition properly. Currently, I use a switch to manually turn the car on and off. I was thinking of using a diode and relay to send power to the ignition during cranking off the starter circuit. I installed a new starter solenoid when I put the new starter in, and noticed there's an unused pole on it. The old one did not have it. Could this be my 12V+ source during cranking?
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I have 3 relays in my ignition circuitry. One energizes the ignition in "Start", one in "Run", and I seem to recall adding the third to isolate the other two more thoroughly. I would guess a diode could do the trick as well, but I went this route because I've had zero luck with diodes in automobiles circuits so far. I'll have to see if I can draw up a schematic for what I've got.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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use the unused I terminal on the starter relay, thats what its for. Just tie the I terminal to whatever you're feeding the running ignition off of and you'll be good.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Here you go, I think these schematics are accurate. The top portion of the jpeg represents the functional aspect of the circuits, which in turn is a subset of the lower part that traces the circuits back to the ignition switch. I know it looks odd, but the redundant primary starter relay, necessitated because I couldn't get the starter to fire running wires directly from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, is only happy acting as though the "start" wire coming from the ignition switch is a ground rather than hot! If you still have your factory "start" wire coming out underhood, you can just tap into that and follow the simplified top part of my image.
Gadget ... I've heard of using that extra terminal for stuff, but wasn't able to get it to do anything in practice. Could you clarify a bit?
--------- EDIT: Found error in bottom part of diagram; fixed it. --------Attached FilesLast edited by 1987cp; 03-15-2008, 04:37 PM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Well, if you're using a dspark, you use that for the ballast resistor bypass. If you're using an aftermarket setup, simply tie the I terminal to the same wire you're using for key-on hot. The I terminal is hot only when the engine is being cranked over. Its marked I for ignition
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I will bust out the multimeter tomorrow and check it out.Comment
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Very interesting. I've seen that terminal in use on first-gen Mustangs, but can't say I've personally seen it used on anything newer. My setup obviously works, but this sounds rather a bit simpler. I too shall have to experiment with it!Originally posted by gadget73 View PostWell, if you're using a dspark, you use that for the ballast resistor bypass. If you're using an aftermarket setup, simply tie the I terminal to the same wire you're using for key-on hot. The I terminal is hot only when the engine is being cranked over. Its marked I for ignition2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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