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    #31
    Originally posted by fordktpjoe View Post
    same thing happened to me last night, now that it's warmed up outside a bit, everything works as it should, except for the outer door handle. I can exit from the drivers door, but have to enter thru the passenger door. Must have yanked a little too hard on it!

    Once I pull the door panel to repair whatever is broken, I'll lube everything I can reach with some Hi-temp wheel bearing grease.

    Same situation mine has improved to. I'm thinking I must have tweaked either the locking mechanism or the rod that goes to the outer door handle, or possibly both. Now that the car's actually spent the night covered, I'll have to yank the door panel and see what I can learn.

    Is it just me, or do the door mechanisms on newer cars seem to be quite a bit more reliable when it's cold?
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #32
      my drivers door has no actuator in I took it out after I fixed the door locks. The passenger side is still in there it does not work. when I was Detroit I could not open the passenger side at all lol

      1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
      302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
      k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

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        #33
        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
        Same situation mine has improved to. I'm thinking I must have tweaked either the locking mechanism or the rod that goes to the outer door handle, or possibly both. Now that the car's actually spent the night covered, I'll have to yank the door panel and see what I can learn.

        Is it just me, or do the door mechanisms on newer cars seem to be quite a bit more reliable when it's cold?
        Yeah, there are only a couple of us at the plant that have older CV's (and some mid 70's F-150's too), most drive newer Fords, if ya drive anything else, you have to park in a different parking lot!

        But there were only the older vehicles sitting fighting the lock issue that night, so yeah, I'd say that it has greatly improved on newer models.
        People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

        1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

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          #34
          Could be, too, that on the newer models, the factory lubricant just hasn't gotten worn off yet the way it has on the older cars. *shrug*

          2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
          1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
          But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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            #35
            Protip: When lubricating the contents of the car doors, use white lithium grease. That's the absolute best for this kind of application. That also goes for window sliders and door hinges. It doesn't dry up and it's not overly messy... doesn't seem to attract dirt/dust as badly either, which is something that will definitely happen with wheel bearing grease.

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              #36
              I'm waiting for mine to give me grief. 3 are original, one is a used original from an 88 mark vii. They all work fine, not through any special effort on my part.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #37
                Originally posted by fordktpjoe View Post
                same thing happened to me last night, now that it's warmed up outside a bit, everything works as it should, except for the outer door handle. I can exit from the drivers door, but have to enter thru the passenger door. Must have yanked a little too hard on it!

                Once I pull the door panel to repair whatever is broken, I'll lube everything I can reach with some Hi-temp wheel bearing grease.
                you probably bent the rod or dislocated it. I did that by accident when I did the actuators in school.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
                  Protip: When lubricating the contents of the car doors, use white lithium grease. That's the absolute best for this kind of application. That also goes for window sliders and door hinges. It doesn't dry up and it's not overly messy... doesn't seem to attract dirt/dust as badly either, which is something that will definitely happen with wheel bearing grease.

                  I'll give it a shot! I've got some (two cans, actually), and it's a lot easier to apply anyway.

                  I also stopped by AutoZone today and asked one of the guys about Rizzo's tip to put silicone on the weatherstripping. The guy handed me a can of Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray Lubricant (it's a white and yellow can), so for $3.50 I figured I'd give it a try. I've now applied it to the four passenger doors on my car as well as the two on the wife's car, so now I guess we just wait to see how it works.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                    you probably bent the rod or dislocated it. I did that by accident when I did the actuators in school.
                    Could be that's why the interior lights and the door key light wont come on now when I pull up the handle? Dislocated rod? I'll do the Lithium grease thing too rather than wheel bearing grease.
                    People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

                    1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                      you probably bent the rod or dislocated it. I did that by accident when I did the actuators in school.
                      In that case, I've probably bent stuff up slightly as well.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by fordktpjoe View Post
                        Could be that's why the interior lights and the door key light wont come on now when I pull up the handle? Dislocated rod? I'll do the Lithium grease thing too rather than wheel bearing grease.
                        My brief experience is that the keyhole light thing simply isn't very reliable as it ages. Mine on the LTD pretty much work when they decide to. :p Pretty sure there is a separate little rod that actuates that stuff when it's working right.
                        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                          My brief experience is that the keyhole light thing simply isn't very reliable as it ages. Mine on the LTD pretty much work when they decide to. :p Pretty sure there is a separate little rod that actuates that stuff when it's working right.
                          True, but it worked up until I yanked on it and broke or dislocated whatever inside of it.. musta broke 'em both!
                          People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

                          1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by fordktpjoe View Post
                            Could be that's why the interior lights and the door key light wont come on now when I pull up the handle? Dislocated rod? I'll do the Lithium grease thing too rather than wheel bearing grease.
                            I think that switch is actually inside the latch mechanism itself. Might want to spray it down with wd40 to loosen any old gummy grease up, then spray the white grease in there and see if it fixes it.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                              In that case, I've probably bent stuff up slightly as well.
                              Should be able to bend it back. IIRC, there was a plastic clip attached to the rod. That may have just broken. It's the same clip you use with the door lock actuator itself.

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                                #45
                                Now that you mention it, I think I'm missing at least one or two of those little clips ..... can't remember where from, though.
                                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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