i hate how htis thing only opens on those two settigns now though im happy it works. i mihgt prop the thing on recirculation for the winter cause i hate having luke warm to cold for all the setting but vent.
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i still think im having a problem wiht the heat on my car. it works fine on recirc but if i have it on floor, defrost, vent or floor and defrost it comes out warm or, well not cold but cool ill say. im wondering if theres somethign else wrong with it but im not sure. is this normal for a car that doesnt have ATC?
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What temperature thermostat do you have? How hot does the engine actually run? I've got a 180 in mine, and it runs at 180 on the gauge. heat is fine, and my recirc door is not open, its sucking outside air. It had good heat before I replaced the core too, and the cooling system on my car was totally un-maintained for a very long time. Chock full of mud it was.
ATC and non-ATC put out the same amount of heat. Only difference is how the blend door is opened. I guess its possible the cable is out of adjustment, so you're not actually getting it fully into the hot position but thats really all that comes to mind.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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well it wasnt even below 45 tonight and i put my heat on high and it felt like it was barely working. like it works but it doesnt feel strong. i know if i slide the lever all the way to hot kinda hard it feels stronger. i kno my heater cor isnt clogged cause last year i flushed it with a hose. i almost wonder if i should just chang the heating/ac console? like maybe the lever isnt working riight or the blend door cable could be stretched. im running out of ideas and with winter coming id like to have good heat
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I had the same problem on my car... turned out the cable operating the heat door had slipped and wasnt pulling the door fully shut. if you pull the glove box out, you can see the cable and heat door "arm". use some long needle nose pliers and pull the cable tight so the door closes all the way.2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
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You really should flush the heater core by it's self. Just unhook both hoses and run the water hose in both hoses (one at a time). If the flow is good both ways the core should be good. When you flush the rad. just hook both heater hoses together and flush away. The reason it should be done that way is, if you have a bunch of crap in the rad. you don't force it into the heater core and plug it up.89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.
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Originally posted by 88grandmarq View PostI had the same problem on my car... turned out the cable operating the heat door had slipped and wasnt pulling the door fully shut. if you pull the glove box out, you can see the cable and heat door "arm". use some long needle nose pliers and pull the cable tight so the door closes all the way.
anybody have pictures of this??? heater in one of the cars here is very weak and both heater hoses are same temperature. both are hot. i bought a new 180* t-stat to install if needed, but since both heater hoses are hot, i am leaning toward the controls or a door for the heat. pics are helpful if anybody has any.
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well, im still havin problems with this. it was fine for a while but today i decided to feel the heater hoses and the one going form the water outlet was hot and the one going to the waterpump was cold. like it felt warm but not like the other hose.
so yea im thinking the that my heater core is clogged. damn bitch that had my car before me had shit in the coolant so i bet that clogged it.
so i guess my question is, how much stuff has to come off hte car to get to the core? i had one guy tell me that we can pull the blower motor and the evaporator and all that stuff off the firewall and theyll be a big enough hole to get to the core anod not have to remove the dash and all that noise. i just didnt know if thats true btu i hope so or i got some work ahead of me. this nonsense sucks
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Clogged heater core. Try flushing it backwards before you resort to pulling it out. Flow is from the intake back to the water pump. Pull both hoses off and try flushing through the water pump side with a garden hose to see if crap comes out of it. If its not leaking, I'd definitely give that a go to see if you can at least get heat for the winter, especially if you have no way to work on the car inside where its heated.
No you cannot access the core from the engine side. It comes out from inside the car. You can remove the plenum, or you can unbolt the dash from the car and extract the core through the top, your choice. Unbolting the dash is probably easier than working underneath and sneaking the plenum out through the bottom. Either way, its a time consuming job.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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well i did switch the hoses around and the heat works a lot better. like even my floor vents give out heat. before all i got was cool air. like its not the same temp as outside but it still felt cold. so as of now my heat is working good. maybe somethign was clogged in htere. i just hope it keeps working good but ill find out for sure hte next really cold day that comes up.
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well that was not what I meant, but I guess it works. Unfortunately now if you did disloge any crud, its in the cooling system. What I said was to use a garden hose to flush it, with the idea that any crud would be flushed out onto the ground, not back into the cooling system to clog up something else.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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i know. i flushed it last winter with a hose and it didnt do much. i was in a rush and just reversed hte hosees. i knew i was possibly causing another problem just revering hte hoses but i was in a rush even though thats a sucky excuse. tomorrow ill check my radiator and see if anything came of it.
i did think that all i couldve done is freed some stuff up and now its on the other side of my heater core.
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Originally posted by import convert View Postwell, im still havin problems with this. it was fine for a while but today i decided to feel the heater hoses and the one going form the water outlet was hot and the one going to the waterpump was cold. like it felt warm but not like the other hose.
so yea im thinking the that my heater core is clogged. damn bitch that had my car before me had shit in the coolant so i bet that clogged it.
so i guess my question is, how much stuff has to come off hte car to get to the core? i had one guy tell me that we can pull the blower motor and the evaporator and all that stuff off the firewall and theyll be a big enough hole to get to the core anod not have to remove the dash and all that noise. i just didnt know if thats true btu i hope so or i got some work ahead of me. this nonsense sucks
You can supposedly pull the entire air plenum out from underneath the dash, but I'm not sure how that procedure goes. Either way it's a pain in the ass.
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