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    The pisser about using a cable conversion is that connecting by the usual means will make the temp slider reversed as the cable would need to mount on the firewall side of the blend door arm to pull it the correct way on an ATC car. If one were so inclined to make an adapter rod that clipped to the current one to make it look more like a Y, then you could clip the cable to the "adapter" side of the Y and the pivot would be correct for manual control. As far as I've seen, the vent control part of the system is the same. The fan switch is also different, but that can be used manually anyhow.
    Last edited by sly; 10-09-2017, 10:17 PM.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      the manual control cars pull from the firewall side? Bah. Kind of a shame the EATC is so non-80s looking. It does honestly function better with the electric blend door setup but I don't see any practical way of using that with sliders short of a DIY brainbox in between the two in order to translate the temperature slider into blend door servo signals.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        the manual control cars pull from the firewall side? Bah. Kind of a shame the EATC is so non-80s looking. It does honestly function better with the electric blend door setup but I don't see any practical way of using that with sliders short of a DIY brainbox in between the two in order to translate the temperature slider into blend door servo signals.
        nah... the manual control cars have a different lever on the blend door and pull from the cabin side. The lever on the blend door is 180 degrees out from the ATC vacuum pulled version to accommodate this.

        Granted, I'm working on 6 year old memories, so I could have it backwards and it's a direct fit just fixing the cable from the ATC sensor to the blend door... but I don't think it is.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          If you used that cable setup, could you just swap the lever and cable, or you'd need the whole assembly from a non-ATC car?
          -Phil

          sigpic

          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

          Comment


            the lever is part of the blend door, so you'd really need the whole piece from a non-atc car to use the standard cable. Or clamp something to the existing door and make it so the cable can be connected to the opposite side it currently can, assuming the manual cars are opposite the auto ones. Its basically 1/8 or 3/16 rod, you could pick something up at the hardware store and bend it to shape. Use a couple of small cable clamps to connect the pieces together. Its not exactly a high stress area.

            access is of course the problem.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              I know that the cable pushes for cold on the manual setup. The vacuum actuator pulls for cold on the ATC setup... so just mounting the cable in place of the actuator would reverse the temp slider. This is why you need the manual plenum and cable or to make a counter lever for the ATC blend door lever (the Y setup I was talking about - more of a Football (American, not futbol) goal post). I think the ATC cable could be used by just dropping it down, but without the counter lever, you'd have to remember to go full hot for cold air and full cold for hot air. I do know the cable fits over the rod as I tried it with my 88 for giggles when I had the dash open for the ATC sensor replacement.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                So, I've read all 8 pages and nothing matches my situation. My heat is hot, A/C is cold, it blows but both heat and A/C blow on the floor and defrost but no vents. Seems my car doesn't have the "coffee can" or "soup can" since it's a 1990 MGM. Can't complain since everything except for vents work but would be nice after working in the sun haha. Any help or advice is appreciated.

                Comment


                  I don;t know what your issue is but starting in 1990 the coffee can was replaced by that black plastic rectangular looking reservoir on the drivers side inner fender with the integrated relay holder.
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                  Comment


                    Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I'd probably start by checking the actual slider controls at the dash. There's a series of vacuum lines that meet up on the back. If those start to crack or pull out of their block, you won't get air sent to the right spots.


                    My Cars:
                    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                    -1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser

                    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (343K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (244K Miles) - March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner - Sold (05/2011 - 07/2024)

                    Comment


                      It may be a problem with one of the air doors in the plenum if the air isn't moving around with the gas or shifting temperature. Starting in 90 or 91, the auto climate control went to an electric actuator so the temperature will not shift with a vac leak on those. This guide was more written for 80s stuff since thats what I happen to own. Honestly though, the climate control system in these cars changed very little through all years of production. Other than going from a vacuum motor to an electric motor on the blend door, the rest of it is all very much the same. The vacuum reservoir changed from a metal can to a plastic tank too, but thats a good thing, plastic doesn't rust.


                      Pull open the glovebox and see if you can watch the vacuum motors operate. If you can't see it, pull the radio and look through that hole. Depending on specifics you've got two or three back there. Non-auto have two, a floor/defrost and a dash/defrost door. The ATC ones have three, floor/defrost/ dash/defrost/ and the bi-level one which lets some air come out the defrost and the floor at the same time. You may have a disconnected or stuck dash/defrost air door motor, or the air doors in the plenum might be broken and not shifting air. Usually air sort of comes out of everyplace when that happens though.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        How does the ATC sensor unplug from the vacuum harness? I have a donor sensor from the junk yard that I just cut the hoses on, but how does it actually disconnect? There is a white collar around the hoses that I have tried pushing or pulling and that doesn't seem to release anything.
                        1986 Country Squire
                        1969 Mercury Cougar
                        1960 Land Rover Series II 88"

                        Comment


                          i want to say there is a small plastic tab that you have to push to get it to unplug.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            That clip is very stubborn.

                            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                            Originally posted by dmccaig
                            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                            Comment


                              and the rubber connector thing likes to become one with the sensor. Might have to stick a pick in there to help get it apart.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                My 90 MGM with ATC will blow hot only when it is running above 40+ mph. So, should be a vacuum leak? I will have to look into it when I get a chance. May unplug the line to the actuator for the wife to get heat.

                                Tim
                                2000 Ford Crown Victoria
                                84 Lincoln Town car signature, R.I.P
                                85 Ford LTD Crown Victoria 2 door performance project
                                89 Lincoln town car: RIP
                                89 Crown Victoria LX 2002 USACi sound quality world champion RIP
                                1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
                                1994 Mercury Grand Marquis (sold)
                                2004 Mercury Marauder. owned for a week then got screwed by the dealer

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