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Now what? Ignition switch part II

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    Now what? Ignition switch part II

    Shit! I got my new connector today and got the wires transfered over to it. I put the wire into the same hole on the new one as I took it out so I know I didn't get wires mixed around.

    So I get it all connected and tried everything by switching it manually on the little shaft not putting it back on the colum yet to make sure it worked before I screwed it back in. Everything did work. I fired it up and everything. So I screw the fucker back in and and the key controlled it perfectly. Run, accessory, off perfect. Then I try and start it well I did it and everything dies down and nothing. It did the same thing as before, no door chime, to power to anything.

    So I am like well maybe it is just the lock cylinder that is shit and it is slipping or something. So I take it out and do it by hand. Nothing. Everything is dead. Tried the old switch still nothing. So I shut the door then I do hear something, a buzzing. I open the door back up and it stopped. Did this several times with the same result then it stopped all together. So I go check my connections at the battery as I undid the negative cable while I was working on putting the switch in.

    I hear on the battery and hissing sound, and I smell that sulfer gas so I get away from it for awhile. So finally it stopped and I go to disconnect the battery totally. Well the positive cable is warm. So I got the battery out and now I am here.

    So what do I do now? I mean I have other batteries but if there is something wrong I don't want to screw one of them over too as I think this batt might be toast.

    So what the hell did I screw up now?
    2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

    #2
    Something shorted out, or the + cable is fried internally is what it sounds like to me. Might want to replace that + cable just to eliminate the possibility. Cut it open if you get a new one. If its green inside near the end, its shot.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #3
      Ok. The battery is good I just tested it. I did take the positive cable off like you said. I cut it on both ends but is seemed ok. I did however notice there was a slice in the insulation by the relay end of it. It was wrapped in electical tape but it was so old the tape pretty much exposed that. I will try to get a new cable and see, it was original motorcraft.
      2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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        #4
        THAIN YOU ROCK!!!!!!!!!!

        You had it right on the head. I got a cable and got it installed. Fired up perfectly I would have never thought of that. If I ever make it east for SF sometime I owe you a beer mang!

        Thanks again!
        2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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          #5
          A beer I'll take, just don't kiss me
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            if i would have seen this sooner i could have told you this...Baby did this to me a few times. i replaced the cable and it worked fine.

            Zack, by the way...that battery is under warranty. it was replaced 2 days before you bought it. it has a 3 year free replacement if i am right and a 9 yr prorated. the best battery wal-mart had for the insta-clear set up cars.

            these cars are picky when it comes to power from the battery. there are times when Baby doesnt wanna start and i just move the cable and she would start right up. hasnt happened like i said since i replaced the cable.
            Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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