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anyone ever get rid of belt squeak with 3G alt swap?

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    anyone ever get rid of belt squeak with 3G alt swap?

    Just did a 3G swap on my 88 town car, dreaded belt squeak at cold start and when my big mark 8 fan kicks on. there is just no belt wrap on the alternator on these cars. I guess I can really crank it tight but I hate to be super hard on the bearings in the alt and power steering pump...
    1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - 393 Dart block LS 91mm turbo with 4L80E and 9" 6.24@115 in the 1/8 mile (9's in the 1/4), 4650lbs w driver, AC, Drag n Drive rig 1300hp

    1988 Lincoln Town Car - stock for now

    #2
    Mine squeaked with a larger pulley. Threw a smaller pulley on it and it cured that. Even less belt wrap but easier to turn I suppose. Might not be good if you run high rpm.
    1990 Country Squire - under restoration
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

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      #3
      There's a fine line between belt too loose and too tight. I did use a crowbar (tire iron/lug wrench) to pry the alternator away from the engine enough to tighten the belt each time I had to mess with that. It helped a lot with getting enough tension on the belt to keep it from slipping. Make sure the power steering pulley is clean as well as that's the one that's usually the noise maker.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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        #4
        I did the same as Sly, I have about 1k miles on it without issue. I just put a crowbar wrapped in a towel as to not scratch things up, leveraged it gently in the mid section of the water pump (avoiding the timing cover since its aluminum & avoiding the mounting studs), and then gently pressed against the alternator until I took all slack out of the belt... then tighten the bolts. As long as you don't go super tight, I doubt you will have any excessive bearing wear IMO.

        It has not squeaked once on start up since I tightened it this way, for 1K+ miles. You can see below I could go tighter as I still have a little room for adjustment, but I just don't feel the need to go any tighter IMO.

        -Kyle
        Attached Files
        '87 Slicktop Steelside Wagon

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          #5
          got it, i'm probably way too loose then. I was just grabbing it with my hand and not even pulling my hardest. I haven;t had a car without a serpentine belt and tensioner in quite a few years!
          1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - 393 Dart block LS 91mm turbo with 4L80E and 9" 6.24@115 in the 1/8 mile (9's in the 1/4), 4650lbs w driver, AC, Drag n Drive rig 1300hp

          1988 Lincoln Town Car - stock for now

          Comment


            #6
            I've used a crescent wrench on the squared bit that the sliding top bolt threads in, but seems like there's less to bite on on a 3G vs a 1G that I have.
            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
            2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

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              #7
              Spec is 1/4 to 1/2 an inch of deflection in the center of the longest stretch between pulleys IIRC. Meaning press down on the belt with light pressure (don't reef on it like trying to break it... just lean on it a little) and if it deflects more than half an inch, it's probably too loose. Kinda make it as tight as you would tie down straps on a furniture haul.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                #8
                I remember something about a voltage regulator that did a soft-start. I wonder if thats an option. kishy was it you that found that part? Been long enough that I don't remember enough details here.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  I remember something about a voltage regulator that did a soft-start. I wonder if thats an option. kishy was it you that found that part? Been long enough that I don't remember enough details here.
                  Was not I, but I was in that thread and have repeated its lore somewhere at least once.

                  Context: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/forum/te...or-belt-squeal

                  Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS | 88 TC | 91 GM
                  Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 92 Jaaag | 05 Focus
                  Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                  | Junkyards

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                    #10
                    FZ4U-10316-AC​ is the 3G soft start/load response delay regulator. It was used when the 3G alternator was installed on a weaker/smaller engines to prevent the engine from stumbling at idle when a large electrical consumer kicked on.

                    I went through a couple configurations on mine until I landed on one I was happy with. Right now I’m running a large case 130A 3G (thanks to WagonMan…he got me the correct bracket) with a soft start regulator. Works very well. There is a slight amount of light dimming when I switch a heavy consumer on however normal brightness returns once the regulator ramps up the output and voltage stabilizes.

                    With that electric fan I would definitely use the soft start. Hearing it squeal every time the fan kicks on can’t be fun. Premature accessory bearing wear from excess belt tension is also a very valid concern.
                    Last edited by matth825; 06-01-2024, 05:33 PM.

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                      #11
                      I'm considering swapping my reg out. Doing another water pump swap and I've done a number of water pumps on this car for seal failure. This is the first bearing failure. If I can run the belt at less than "screaming for mercy" tension it probably won't hurt it any. Now to find one. Any idea if the non-OEM ones actually work like the OE parts? Not finding any current listings for the genuine article. The alternator on my car is a reman with a generic reg on it anyway.
                      Last edited by gadget73; 06-02-2024, 07:52 AM.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        No idea on the aftermarket one. It appears Ford changed the part number of the regulator. Check this out https://www.ebay.com/itm/324677004558

                        The box shows the “new” part number GR-822/F4ZZ-10C359-AA) while the regulator has the old number.

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                          #13
                          appreciate it. Added to the watch list, maybe I'll get an offer I can't refuse.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by matth825 View Post
                            No idea on the aftermarket one. It appears Ford changed the part number of the regulator. Check this out https://www.ebay.com/itm/324677004558

                            The box shows the “new” part number GR-822/F4ZZ-10C359-AA) while the regulator has the old number.
                            RockAuto has the motorcraft gr-822 for around 45$ plus ship and tax.
                            1987 CV LX 5.0

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I bought a slow start regulator from AMF Industrial two years ago and it's performed as expected since then. It was 12 bucks when I got it but I see they're now charging $20.

                              1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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