Ever since I bought my 90 mgm there has been a piece of tape over the rear passenger window switch on the drivers panel. Well I was curious and decided to remove it and put the window down. It ended up falling all the way and wouldn’t go back up. I thought it was the bushings causing no contact between the gears allowing the regulator to lower. I opened up the door panel and found that the regulator and motor were fine. This little piece of plastic that slides on the channel to allow the regulator to move the window up and down broke. I was able to put it back together but when the window moves up I can see the piece stressing so I know it’ll just fail again. Anyone know where I can get this piece and how I can install it? I had to pull the window out of the channel and fight it to get it to go back on.
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I think Ford used this basic design for all of their power window setups before they went to the cable drive rig. Wouldn't be at all surprised if its also the same part on a Fox Mustang.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Looks like the foxbody one isn't too different:
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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Originally posted by 87GrandMarq View PostThat’s pretty much the same thing wagonman posted but thank you. The issue with using that one would be that either I’d have to cut it in half to install it or use magic lol. What do you guys think?1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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Originally posted by Arquemann View Post
The balls should just pop out of the socket with some force. No need to hack anything in half or drill out the old ball stud. Pop off the plastic guide off the new ball stud, slide the guide into the track and push in the old ball stud with channel locks or a small C-clamp. I did a very similar roller replacement in my Caprice. And grease the track.
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I was able to mess with this a little bit earlier. The bushing fits perfectly in the track but the issue is with the peg on the regulator that goes into the bushing. It’s similar to the one that comes with the bushing wagonman posted but it’s slightly smaller. I have two options, either open up the bushing a little bit or remove the stock peg and mount it with the peg and nut that come with the bushing. I tried to push the bushing onto the stock peg but it wouldn’t budge even with some white lithium grease. I’ll probably open it up a bit and try again tomorrow.
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I finally got it all back together today, mostly. The bushing that wagonman posted (thank you) will work but needs to be modified. First, the ball stud needs to be pressed out. Then, since one side is tapered, you’ll have to drill the opening out to 5/32” and then you can press it on the regulator arm. It will be a tight fit but it works.
Now the other issue that cropped up. Other than the bushing, the only other thing that supports the window in the channel is a run channel that is clued onto the inside of the rear side of the window channel. Without this, the window will rotate towards the front of the car until it’s close to the top of its travel before it straightens out. Of course mine is missing. I don’t like this as with my luck the window will jam and shatter… I’m guessing it’s the same window run channel as the fronts? And to glue it on butyl type of adhesive or similar?
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There is a metal channel glued to the glass. A felt slider is slipped over the channel and is held in place by two plastic guides. The two guides slip inside the black runner. WagonMan2 Photos89 Colony Park
90 Colony Park
70 HEMI Daytona Convertible
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