'86 5.0 mgm alternator

[friskyfrankie]

Where to purchase said connector?

Should be able to get it at a local auto parts store or even online. Many aftermarket companies make them, Standard, Wells, etc. Haven't seen an OEM in many a moon so you can easily go aftermarket.

[Toploader]

More questions, always more questions;-)
So assume that the alt is not at fault and the battery again goes dead...........where else can I look at devices known to be sources of voltage drain?? I have removed the trunk and under hood bulbs, only bulbs left are the glove box lamp, and the lamps that illuminate the sun visors .

[sly]

Replacement alts for these seem to come with a connector. At least the pics on RockAuto show that.

As for testing, just use the middle pin on both. Don't test the skinny wire, just one of the fat ones. A clamp meter like the one I have would be much easier, but a basic DMM with amps setting (use 10A for safety of the meter as I've seen as much as 1.5-2A on failed alts and as little as 0.1A leakage on a mostly good but leaky one).

This method can also be used to check every circuit. Pull the fuse and put the meter across the fuse terminals. You SHOULD see some leakage on the clock circuit due to the keep alive circuit from the battery. The radio will also have a little drain. Both should be less than 0.1A individually and preferably combined. If checking the dome light (interior courtesy lights) circuit, make sure to hold the button in so the lights are off if you can or just skip that one. This process will reset your clock and radio settings.

For the starter solenoid mounted wires, you can do the same thing by taking it all off the solenoid (except the positive battery cable, don't leave that dangling - might want to disconnect the negative cable before doing that and reconnect it after you have the positive reattached to the solenoid securely) and then putting the meter between the positive battery terminal and each disconnected wire individually. If you find more than 0.1A leakage anywhere, you've probably found the circuit with the issue.

[Toploader]

Replacement alts for these seem to come with a connector. At least the pics on RockAuto show that.

As for testing, just use the middle pin on both. Don't test the skinny wire, just one of the fat ones. A clamp meter like the one I have would be much easier, but a basic DMM with amps setting (use 10A for safety of the meter as I've seen as much as 1.5-2A on failed alts and as little as 0.1A leakage on a mostly good but leaky one).

This method can also be used to check every circuit. Pull the fuse and put the meter across the fuse terminals. You SHOULD see some leakage on the clock circuit due to the keep alive circuit from the battery. The radio will also have a little drain. Both should be less than 0.1A individually and preferably combined. If checking the dome light (interior courtesy lights) circuit, make sure to hold the button in so the lights are off if you can or just skip that one. This process will reset your clock and radio settings.

For the starter solenoid mounted wires, you can do the same thing by taking it all off the solenoid (except the positive battery cable, don't leave that dangling - might want to disconnect the negative cable before doing that and reconnect it after you have the positive reattached to the solenoid securely) and then putting the meter between the positive battery terminal and each disconnected wire individually. If you find more than 0.1A leakage anywhere, you've probably found the circuit with the issue.

Sly today I did as you suggested and found that my Fluke meter showed 1.14 amp. So as you suggested, anything more than zero would indicate a bad alt. In the end I will just have to bring the car back out to LI and leave it with my bud as he suggested, then he can check every day if the battery is good or again is dead. Remember, last week after I put the new battery in, he hooked up his meter and found absolutely no drain...........so yes as stated previously, we have an intermittent drain problem. Before I drag the car out to him, I will wait for a full week(with the alternator disconnected) to pass to see if the battery is again dead........if the battery is not dead and the car starts, it has to be the alternator. Btw, it seems that on each of those plugs what looks like di-electric grease was surrounding the metal pins.........or was some kind in insulation packed inside those plugs as manufactured by Ford??

[sly]

The dielectric grease would be rather crusty by now, but yes, that is a thing that Ford did. Not sure about the alternators though. I'm used to seeing that in light sockets that turns yellow and crusty.

[Toploader]

The dielectric grease would be rather crusty by now, but yes, that is a thing that Ford did. Not sure about the alternators though. I'm used to seeing that in light sockets that turns yellow and crusty.

Before I put the test leads on, I scraped out that grease as it was completely covering the connector pins.

[sly]

Yeah... probably dielectric grease. Not an issue as it presses away from the contact surfaces when it's in good shape. When it gets crusty it becomes more plastic and insulator than grease.

[gadget73]

real fun when it turns to glue in the bulb sockets and you can't get the bulbs out. Have broken several dealing with that.

[Mainemantom]

If you should need a connector with wires, I have a new one in stock. Do not use the existing connector.

[Toploader]

If you should need a connector with wires, I have a new one in stock. Do not use the existing connector.

Tom I will purchase what you have if it will fit my application. From what I have found on line the two connectors I need are Standard Motor Products S-542...long thin straight connector. Standard Motor Products HP-3910 "Handy Pack" smaller roundish stubby connector.

[Mainemantom]

This is what I have SMP S541 . New without package. The other connector, unless damaged, you should not have to replace.. If this will work for you, pm me. Thanks

[Toploader]

Tom I will check the car tomorrow, I think the other connector (3910) has a piece of the plastic clasp broken off, but I will check tomorrow... I just hope the battery is not dead, even with the alt taken out of the circuit...if so the drain is someplace else and I will be forced to bring and leave the car for my bud to keep checking everyday until he finds the cause of the drain/dead battery.

[Toploader]

NOS parts in Texas has a NOS Alt for about $120.00 E6ZZ-10346-B 65 amp. Any problem purchasing NOS as opposed to rock auto reman units, or BBB brand new examples??

[sly]

Only real issue could be dry bearings.
Regulator could have issues if it has any degraded components in it, but that's stretching it.

[friskyfrankie]

NOS parts in Texas has a NOS Alt for about $120.00 E6ZZ-10346-B 65 amp. Any problem purchasing NOS as opposed to rock auto reman units, or BBB brand new examples??

Rebuilt is always a question mark. Rebuilt by whom? How skilled are they? Were quality parts used? What exactly did they replace and what was merely "cleaned up"? You see the trend....