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FUEL PUMP!?

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    FUEL PUMP!?

    Alright here the story, last weekend I replaced the relay and the car started right up heard the fuel pump charge the system easy no problem. So this weekend the fuel pump decides to not work? I can hear/feel the fuel pump relay click and seem to work, but no fuel pump. I can't hear it. I tapped the tank to see if I could get it to work no luck. now I'm afraid maybe the pump crapped out? My cars got 168,XXX on it and I know Blazes has like 220k+ and the pump was still good when he replaced it. So how likely is it the pump crapped out? How hard is it to drop the tank if I do have to get a new pump and where is a good place to get one for a unemployed broke teenager? Any help will be much appreciated as always.

    ~ Dave
    Resident diesel addict

    #2
    Just because the relay clicks doesn't mean the relay is working. It could also be one of the other relays you are hearing. You need to check for voltage at the pump or at least ot the output of the relay. It's possible that the pump died, the life depends on many things, how often you run it low on gas, quality of fuel used...

    You could also be having other issues, that are causing the fuel pump relay not to engage.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      Originally posted by mrltd
      Just because the relay clicks doesn't mean the relay is working.
      True, true. The ECA Power Relay "picks up" at the same time as the Fuel Pump Relay (may be others, too). So, just because you hear clicks - it don't mean nothin'.

      Look at this diagram.

      1. Unplug the fuel pump relay. Look at its terminal orientation - should match the drawing.
      2. Measure for voltage (or use test lamp) at plug terminal marked as 37 Y on the drawing (should be yellow wire) to ground. If you have voltage, the fusible link is good.
      3. Make sure that your Intertia Switch (in the trunk, driver side front) has not tripped.
      4. Install a jumper across plug terminals marked as 37 Y and 461 O on the drawing (should be yellow and orange wires). If the pump runs, well, its not the pump.
      5. While measuring across plug terminals 361R (red) to ground, turn on the ignition key - should see power. This tests the ECA (computer) power relay. If you don't have this power, ECA power relay may have crapped out.
      6. While measuring across plug terminals marked 97 T/LG (tan/light green stripe) and 361 R (red), turn on the ignition key - should see power for a second or so, then turn off. If you have power, its the relay.

      I did not include Intertia switch instructions - haven't heard of one failing, but could be I suppose . . . .
      Attached Files
      Last edited by 89GrandMarquis; 10-15-2006, 03:11 PM.


      HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.

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        #4
        I'll have to check it out next time I work on it. I got sick of screwing with it, I checked the relay and it seemed to be working I replaced it with a known good one I have still no pump. I'll have to check voltage at the pump and what not next time. I decided to get more body work done before it gets too cold. Trying to get it ready and painted before the snow falls.
        Resident diesel addict

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          #5
          check for coroaded connections at the tank. I have replaced a few of the cut off switches. you can make a jumper wire to test it.
          Scars are tatoos of the fearless

          Comment


            #6
            yea check the fuel pump inertia switch before you do anything else

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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              #7
              Alright guys where is the Inertia switch? is it in the trunk like on the newer models?
              Resident diesel addict

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                #8
                Sholud be mtd next to the hinge on the drivers side in the trunk.
                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                  #9
                  Well I've been workin' on it with my buddy, I checked the inertia switch which hasn't been activated. Checked the relay. Checked to make sure it was getting power. Did everything, so now we are in the process of dropping the tank. I can't get the filler neck to pull out of the tank as it drops. we ran out of time to work on it so hopefully sometime this week I can get up there and get it out.
                  Resident diesel addict

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                    #10
                    When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

                    Did you take the little bolt out of the neck support? That'll keep it from coming out....Little 5/16" headed bolt that you have to take out. Right on the drivers side by the frame on the filler neck, right where it goes into the tank.
                    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                      #11
                      Lol, I noticed that had to come out after the tank was unstrapped and all the wires/fuel lines were disconnected, but I did get the tank out.
                      Resident diesel addict

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