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simple HD OD band and A solenoid and a shift kit should allow up to 400HP/TQ according to the guys that rebuilt mine. For more, you'll need the one piece input shaft, non-lockup TC, and a larger cooler. I don't think the gears need to be replaced until you broach 650+, but I could be mistaken on that one. Of course, valve body upgrades may be required at any point anyhow.
Thanks SLY! I'm sure I won't be the one rebuilding the AOD, but I would like to figure out what's done so I know what to ask the person(s) who will end up rebuilding the AOD. I thought I read somewhere that parts from a 4R70W are swapped over to achieve those goals. I will do a search on that as well.
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to get the wide ratio, you swap the gears from the 4r70w over. the stock gears should handle 400 no problem. the weak link is the two piece input shaft. Also, 89+ AOD is the better core to build in to get better power handling. The casing is a little beefier.
Recalibrated valve body with electronic OD lockout is always good to. Thats what I have in mine.
1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)
Is there any difference switching from cast iron to stamped steel drums? Most AODs use the cast iron up until roughly 90 but all AODE/4R70/75 will use the stamped steel. Not sure what difference it makes. I know the rear planetary is stronger in the late style as opposed to the AOD. I would also assume racing frictions and steels for the forward, intermediate, and direct clutch wouldn't be a bad idea if you're already in there beefing things up.
1987 Grand Marquis LS (GONE!)
1990 Grand Marquis GS
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