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    #61
    ah, after reading over some of the information posted, I think I have answered my own question.


    You pop the block out of the rubber grommet, push the white tab out, pull rail out, floor it, push the block back in the grommet (locking the white tab), make the MAX TV mark, then make the MIN 5/16" away, and then MID TV mark is exactly between the two? Once this is done, you set it at the mid point? Am I understanding this correctly?

    If I've fucked it up (which seems unlikely..this must take what, 5-10 minutes? doesn't seem too complicated), how will I know? Will the car yell and throw things? Lousy shift points?
    Last edited by 1990LTD; 10-10-2009, 12:02 PM.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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      #62
      from my 85 cv cfi tv rod adjustments. if its to tight the tranny will: shift early and you'll hear and feel a rough change in gears. youll hear a "clack" sound right when the gears change. the car changed gears too quick. it also kicked down easily but with medium amount of pressure on the gas pedal
      if too loose the tranny: will feel very mushy or when changing gears it will jerk then plop into the next gear. when you hit the gas pedal you'll feel like your not going fast at all and your probably not too. you'll hear engine rev but no speed. a wtf moment. also, when its too loose the tranny wont kick down easily.
      i adjusted my tv rod through trial/error. an efi might be different.
      what to expect if you adjust correctly. nice gear changes at good speeds under the amount of foot pressure you apply. no more bullshit jerks, strange sounds, or waisted momentum. it'll feel smooth and comfortable.

      these are my experiences with a cfi tv rod adjustments.
      i hope it gives you an idea of what to expect.
      like i mentioned earlier, efi's might have different symtoms.

      good luck my friend
      sigpic
      67 Ltd tudor
      67 Ltd 4door
      85 Ltd 4door

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        #63
        heh, checked earlier today, it's dirty as fuck but the rubber deal is still intact. it looks like hell...i wrote down that part number, gonna go to the ford dealer this week and get some of 'em. not going to adjust until then because i don't want the rubber to disintegrate while i'm working on it without a replacement.
        sigpic


        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

        Comment


          #64
          TV Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A

          I am reading the part about TV pressure setting in shop manual and there is written I would need TV Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A. I believe this is just a spacer of speciffic thickness? Am I right? If so I do not see any sense in paying USD50 for this tool, if I knew the thickness.

          Have you any ideas about that? My is following: according to the shop manual each 1mm of move of the plastic block shall equal to 2.5psi. With the tool installed the pressure reading shall be 33psi, without it near zero - that means the difference between these two readings is 33psi (that means 13.2mm or 0.5197inch) - thus the spacer shall be 13.2mm thick? Is this right?
          sigpic

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            #65
            I'd try it. If your logic is incorrect, it will likely be totally out of adjustment, which you will realize quickly. It sounds like what you're saying makes sense though.

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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              #66
              I got the replacement brass grommet/butterfly clip in the mail from Scott today. He sent it Priority mail and they STILL took like a week to get it here!


              Anyway, I replaced it and adjusted the TV cable as per the instructions here and on youtube, and now my car feels great. No clutch chatter, shifts are faster/sharper and MUCH later (and 2nd gear is usable!!!!). I'm not in 3rd by the time I leave a parking lot now.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #67
                I adjusted my TV cable via the instructions on the first page I find the transmission shifts a bit late. For example, 1-2 occurs between 20-24mph. Also, it shifts harder the slower I accelerate.

                Should I adjust it to shift a little earlier? If so which direction should I go? (pull the rod farther or closer to the block?)

                Comment


                  #68
                  Update: I found the best setting was having the rod in a little bit more than I had it set. It shift a little bit earlier and much smoother at light throttle.

                  Comment


                    #69
                    RESURRECTION!

                    Figured I'd post my findings since i have a TV Rod. The instructions found on the original site posted: http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm for the rod (the last instruction) is, however, incorrect for my application. The first step with someone pushing the gas pedal down all the way makes it impossible to reach any of the adjusting screws, and even if you could, the adjustment screw can't even be turned out so that 13 threads are showing...so i went right to the trans and moved the rod up a bit. Took it for a test drive, made some adjustment up at the carb side and the results are amazing!

                    Originally under light throttle there was occasional slippage, shuffle, and low shift points.
                    Approximate Original shift points under light (normal) throttle:
                    1-2 15mph
                    2-3 25mph
                    3-4 35mph

                    Especially in 1st to second it was lugging the engine when it shifted and i had to push it harder then I'd like in order to hold a gear.

                    Revised shift points (approximate with light/normal throttle)
                    1-2 22mph
                    2-3 35mph
                    3-4 47-50mph

                    I'm extremely please with these results, the car feels completely different (in a good way) and it is far more responsive.

                    -Phil

                    sigpic

                    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                    Comment


                      #70
                      great thread!!
                      "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                      -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                      -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                      -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                      -2011 Subaru Outback

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                        #71
                        Anyone got current information on the brass TV bushings? I've check my local dealer and they want 26.06 each for the F3SZ7H303B bushings (four bushings per package not sold individually). This is just unacceptable in so many ways. The plastic replacement is 4.30 each and they come two to a pack. I tried the transmissionusaparts site and no go (out of stock). Got on their email notification list months ago and still a "no go" today.

                        Comment


                          #72
                          If you don't have any objections to buying from Ebay, here is the link to the one I got from Ebay for $9 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-AOD-Thr...ec083a&vxp=mtr

                          I also found this one today for $6.99 and free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Throttl...5ec52f&vxp=mtr

                          Also this thread was a big help, when I got my 91 it was shifting way too early. I adjusted the tv cable and all was good and has been for the past year now.
                          Vic

                          ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                          ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                          ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                          ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                          Comment


                            #73
                            as bad as that is, unless you mean 26X4 is the asking price, I'd just pay it.

                            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                              as bad as that is, unless you mean 26X4 is the asking price, I'd just pay it.
                              I missed the pack of 4 part, that price the dealer gave for a pack of 4 actually works out to be a better (per unit) deal than either of the Ebay links I posted.
                              Vic

                              ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                              ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                              ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                              ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                              Comment


                                #75
                                The price I got from my dealer was an "each" price. So 26x4 104 + tax for all four in the pack! Geez. Thanks, I'll use the links you provided and check it out.

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