91 LTC AOD "Slipping Issue"

[MyTowLinc]

I have been working on this project for the last 9 months, and this is the first time I have had this issue. During a full acceleration pull in 3rd, and OD I had engine rpm's increase, but acceleration non-existent.

Today I think I followed the troubleshooting process.

Fluid:
The vehicle has enough fluid, but I need to add what appears to be 1/4 to 1/2 a quart. Fluid is bright red, and no burnt smell.

OD Band Test: At 50 mph in the second position I release the accelerator and do have engine braking. I have a considerable amount more engine braking releasing the accelerator at 60mph.
I have engine braking in first gear as well.

Normally I have been letting the vehicle warm up for a while. Before the car warmed up, the shifts were hesitant, and after the vehicle warmed up all shifts, were smooth, and I did not have the hesitation at 55.

This leads me to think this has to do with the fact I have a 91 AOD, and the AOD Thesis states that there was a change in pan design in 96. I already have my new wix transmission filter. Would I be able to buy a 96 pan and thenstraight swap?

Fluid wise: I was thinking walmart brand mercon V. I heard it is almost equilvalent, and with the price difference, I can accelerate the filter fluid changes.

Eventually I would like to have an inspection. I would much rather have a transmission rebuilt now, than find a junkyard used transmission in 9 months on the road. I literally have the worst luck with mechanics, and was wondering if there are any within a few hundred mile radius of St Louis?

[friskyfrankie]

Does it still have the plastic grommet for the trany shift linkage cable? I would think that it does so check it and the cable. If the plastic grommet is still there, swap it out with the brass one readily available - NOW!

[MyTowLinc]

Forgive me I am a noob when it comes to transmission. RockAuto does not seem to have this part. Then it seems like there are some major differences between the 91 and 96 version of shift linkage cable.

These are pictures of what I believe is the shift linkage cable. I will order the part right away. I did the testing in the Haynes, and the vehicles starts only in park and Neutral. Will not start in drive, od, 1, or R.

[MyTowLinc]

here are some images

[MyTowLinc]

I knew I had to do the Ujoints, I assume, I will have a gasket that needs replaced to fix this transmission fluid leak?

[friskyfrankie]

This is just one example of the part and location. The part can be found at Mustang parts sites, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324471853838?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=324471853838&targetid=1645685073328&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9011899&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073328&abcId=9300841&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6o-l1vqh_QIVlxbUAR0tBAr_EAQYAiABEgK5yvD_BwE

[MyTowLinc]

I am sorry I will check the tv cable now. I really only know of rockauto, summit, and box stores. Thank you for the help. Is there a brand you suggest?

[MyTowLinc]

I think the plastic piece is broken! Thank you for saving me. I plan on attempting to reset the tv adjustment, and zip tying it together, for the few trips for work I need to make, while the parts arrive. I will follow this procedure. Ford AOD Transmission (txchange.com)

[MyTowLinc]

Does it still have the plastic grommet for the trany shift linkage cable? I would think that it does so check it and the cable. If the plastic grommet is still there, swap it out with the brass one readily available - NOW!

Now I get you were just talking about the grommet, I thought I had to replace the entire cable with one with a brass grommet. I am sorry.

[friskyfrankie]

No problem. Actually, if you did not disturb the cable, you simply need to install it back to the throttle body area with the brass grommet and cotter pin. This is assuming you did not burn out the OD while the cable was off the TB. Don't panic and try the grommet first and then see how the car drives. I have seen cars drive perfectly well after just doing that. Let's keep our fingers crossed!

[gadget73]

+1, just replace the bushing and see what you get first.

the tail shaft seal looks to be seeping a bit. If the driveshaft is coming out you may as well replace it while you're at it, or honestly it doesn't look that bad. If its not actively dripping I might just give it a good wipe down and keep an eye on it.

[MyTowLinc]

@Frankie
Well I ordered the part you linked and it gets here in a few days. I will keep driving to a minimum. Today the vehicle did not experience the same issue I had yesterday. I am able to go into overdrive, so I am keeping my fingers crossed. The tv cable is seated better now.

gadget73 I will get that wiped down, and keep an eye on it. I was planning on doing ujoints, would the whole driveshaft need replaced or just a seal? I always grabbed junkyard ones in the past, but I would like to find the larger sized driveshaft since I intend to tow, and figured if I could essentially add all the factory towing accesories.

[friskyfrankie]

If possible I would not drive it at all but if no choice stay under 30 mph or so if even that. Why "poke the bear"?

[MyTowLinc]

True. I pretty much have no choice. I will keep it slow. Just finished cleaning out the engine, bay, and hopefully with some fluid, and the gromet, she is back to normal. Thank you once again.

[friskyfrankie]

True. I pretty much have no choice. I will keep it slow. Just finished cleaning out the engine, bay, and hopefully with some fluid, and the gromet, she is back to normal. Thank you once again.

No problem! My hope is that with proper fluid level and the brass bushing/grommet it will be good as new. Love to see these cars fixed with a simple, cheap solution!