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Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
I'm going to pull the head (which I didn't really want to do) and take it to the guy who's going to build my air ride suspension. He's going to weld a nut to the top of the bolt and we're going to see if we can back it out with a wrench.
I had sprayed it (from the top and the bottom) with Aerokroil on three separate occasions yesterday and today I used EZ-Out type tools and a few other ideas and nothing worked.
Austin's going to help me with this bolt and he's going to modify the FRPP Mustang-type EGR spacer to take the CV bracket. Seems to be the easiest way out, since I mocked up the cables I bought at the junk yard in the engine bay and there's no fucking way they'll work.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
So, did you ever get the bolt out? I was going to recommend welding a piece of flat stock to the broken bolt, then use that to lossen it out. Also, I don't know how much of the bolt is still there, but if you can get two nuts on it, you can use them as "jam nuts".
Good Luck and
Good Day
1993 GM LS 244K
29.5mm PI front bar, ENS greaseable bushings, 21mm rear bar, ENS bushings, endlinks. Black steelies, center caps. Stewart-Warner mechanical oil pressure guage. K&N filter
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII 144K
All airbags are now coils/struts. Junk tranny, motor donor car
Mercury Owners Group
If you don\'t like what I have to type, don\'t read it. It is only my opinion, nothing more.
if its near the center, fuck it. just tighten the rst of the bolts to 25 ft/lbs.
Sorry, but that is just shitty work there. Don't ever leave a broken bolt. That's like leaving a lug nug off the wheel, yeah it will hold, but who is stupid enough to drive that every day.
if its near the center, fuck it. just tighten the rst of the bolts to 25 ft/lbs.
Sorry, but that is just shitty work there. Don't ever leave a broken bolt. That's like leaving a lug nug off the wheel, yeah it will hold, but who is stupid enough to drive that every day.
well i know a guy that bought a 03 Audi TT Quatro that was missin 4 lug nuts(1 on each wheel) and both front wheels lookde like someone took an chisle to them and cut 3/4" grooves in them and he paid WAY to much for it. i think he paid like 28G's and i told him 23 and to get the dealer to get it fixed before he bought it
Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
Blah, blah, blah, busted link, busted link...
I'm gonna chop the brake pedal and install the covers this weekend, as well as get the engine finished and painted. I hope to get the pedal assembly installed and cut the firewall, but we'll see.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
Looks like the spacing between clutch and brake pedals is awfully close. And do you have some sort of sleve welded into the clutch pedal where it rides on the stud to keep it from cutting in over time? Can't really tell from the pics.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
The spacing between clutch and brake pedals will be increased a lot- I have aluminum pedal covers and I'm going to chop a lot off the brake pedal. It'll have 1.5-2" clearance.
The clutch pedal sits in a tube. There are nylon bushings on each end to provide "lubrication".
Duce- before I answer your question, how could it possbly flex?
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
I made some more progress between last night and today. The bottom end is almost ready to be sealed back up- just a little more grinding on the main girdle to clear the oil disptick. I got the transmission open for inspection and this thing is GORGEOUS inside, especially considering it's been sitting for six years. It's also amazing how all the power and weight is carried through these little gears...
I also chopped up the pedals to fit the new pedal covers. I hadn't attached them at the time these pictures were taken, so forgive me if they're a little crooked.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
That's clutch and brake pedals. The clutch pedal was still loose, so it was sitting at an angle. It's all straight, though. I was VERY careful to measure everything before my friend welded it together for me.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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