Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)

[Freshmeat]

Yes- it's done... but I'm not happy.

[Freshmeat]

Frankie

:nonono::nonono::nonono:
I got it running (again) today... the results...

1) It's still popping in the exhaust if I hit it too hard, both at idle and on the road. (no cats)
2) It idles well, but some times does surge.
3) I hear a contact noise coming from the transmission that stops when I engage the clutch. Could the pressure plate be too tight or not tight enough?
4) Still lots of exhaust popping when I hit the clutch. (no cats)
5) It feels like I'm missing a lot of power and today it quit pulling at 3,500 RPMs instead of the previous 4,000 RPMs.

I'm losing patience with this. The build has so much potential, but it seems like I'm only hitting brick walls. Can anyone offer suggestions as to what I can do? Just throw the ideas out there and I'll let you know whether I've tried them.

Thanks... I guess.

[88MercWagon]

The power loss may be a fuel issue. As for the popping, I don't know. Bad plugs not igniting all of the fuel?

[Freshmeat]

I have a new fuel filter I'm installing in the morning (or tonight; not sure)... but if it's running lean, wouldn't it overheat?

[88MercWagon]

Eh, not necessarily. The fuel delivery might be fine until you hit 3,500 RPM

[raser13]

auto zone has one that looks like the bullet chamber off of a revolver bullets and all. even has maching locks and tire stem knobs. i'd get one if mine was stick

[Freshmeat]

Maybe. To be honest with you, I'm leaning more toward ignition. Tomorrow I'll be sneaking my dad's ignition box to see if it makes a difference.

[nitroracer]

Whats with the cutting out at 4000rpm? My car has the same problem and I think the only thing I havent tested and/or replaced is the engine harness itself.

Hey, congrats on getting it driving again. Even if she aint perfect, yet.

[Mercracer]

What do you have for a Y/H pipe on it? Any exhaust leaks in the Y/H pipe area such as the smog tube holes?
If your clutch linkage is too tight, you will be riding on the throwout bearing all of the time which will prematurely kill it. Are you using an automatic adjuster or manually adjusting the cable?
Are you certain that your HO firing order and timing are on?

[gadget73]

With David's car, before the fuel pump was changed, it started hitching and bucking somewhere in the 3500-4000 rpm range. Replacing the fuel pump with a higher flow Mustang one took care of that problem. The surging at idle might just be the SD setup not wanting to cooperate fully with that particular cam. I wouldn't be surprised if the higher rpm power loss is valve float, or did you change those springs already? The exploder valve springs don't work so well over like 4200-4500 when new, and used I imagine it gets worse.

[nitroracer]

I have a new fox mustang fuel pump (110lph I think) in my car and is still bucks right before a shift at full throttle, did I get a bad pump?

[88MercWagon]

With David's car, before the fuel pump was changed, it started hitching and bucking somewhere in the 3500-4000 rpm range. Replacing the fuel pump with a higher flow Mustang one took care of that problem. The surging at idle might just be the SD setup not wanting to cooperate fully with that particular cam. I wouldn't be surprised if the higher rpm power loss is valve float, or did you change those springs already? The exploder valve springs don't work so well over like 4200-4500 when new, and used I imagine it gets worse.

And there you have it...

[Freshmeat]

88Merc- And there I have what? If all you're going to do is jump behind someone offering advice and tell me, "Hey- that's your problem. Right there," while you live on the other side of the fucking country, don't respond. This is going to take some digging and testing to get to the root of this. You don't even have an HO. You're not helping.

Mercracer-
1) I'm currently running the remains of my custom exhaust from three years ago. The cats are gutted, the air tubes welded, and the tail pipes removed. No leaks that I can hear.
2) I'm manually adjusting the clutch pedal. Do you know of an automatic adjuster I could use? Never heard of 'em...
3) HO firing order is set properly. Timing was at 12* last time I had checked and I don't know of any alterations I've made that could have thrown off the timing. I'll check that tonight when I do the other stuff.

gadget-
1) If it was the valve springs, it should do it in a free rev as well as under load because load doesn't have any different effect on the springs themselves.
2) I'm running a stock 1987 Mustang GT cam. This cam was designed for use with SD computers, so I don't see why it'd give me trouble now...

Keep the ideas coming, guys.

[Mercracer]

2) I'm manually adjusting the clutch pedal. Do you know of an automatic adjuster I could use? Never heard of 'em..

If you did the conversion using a Mustang pedal and quadrant you would have an automatic adjuster. The cable length may not be the same and the distance from quadrant to firewall may not be the same either. Either condition would not allow you to use the Mustang automatic adjusting system without extra work. Using a manually adjusting system is more durable and reliable anyway.

[Mercmarquis]

Have you tried gunning the car at full throttle then shut it off and coast to a stop on the road and check the color of the plugs? Easy things like that can give you a clue if its running lean or pig rich. As for mufflers what are you running? if you have asspacks they pop alot and usually will if you get on the clutch.