The Mustang H, flow tubes, extensions, cheapie mufflers, and impala tails is exactly what I run. The extensions can be had from Advance or any other parts store. Its just a stick of pipe with one end slightly larger to slip over the pipe ahead of it. The flow tubes you'll need to play with positioning on to get them where you want them, and its not the absolute best fitting setup but it has good ground clearance, doesn't hang down under the car, and can be put together with no special tools or equipment in a day's time. The only special tool I needed was a sawzall to tweak the length of the extensions to fit my needs and the pipe expander to make the pipe round again after I fucked it up from banging it together. Don't smack the end of the extension with a mallet to drive it up onto the flow tube and you won't have that problem.
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Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
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86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Okay... well... I've opted to patch what exhaust is there so I can get this fucker running again, but this thread is far from over!
Well... I guess it is, actually, because if I have custom work done, all I need to select is a muffler design. Damn...
mrltd- any chance you can get some video with sound once it's on the road, again?2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
with heads installed... what's the best way to do it?2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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Harbor freight has a cheap valve spring compressor. Only like $10. Works good.
remove all the rocker arms
You will either need an air hold and a good compressor, or rotate each cylinder to TDC.
use the spring compressor to compress the spring.
remove the locks, then the retainer.
remove valve spring.
install is reverse, slthough the locks can be tricky to get in there.
after each cylinder rotate the next cylinder to tdc and repeat.http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
http://secondhandradio.com/
R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634
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Shoestring? I'll pass. Duce- if I put pistons to TDC, will the valve not drop too far to properly position the new springs?2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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Originally posted by FreshmeatShoestring? I'll pass. Duce- if I put pistons to TDC, will the valve not drop too far to properly position the new springs?http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
http://secondhandradio.com/
R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634
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turbo- I had new seals, but they were the regular 302 seals. It's very different on a P motor and I couldn't find them anywhere. Know where I can grab 'em?
Thanks for the advice, guys.2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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Small rope is the absolute best way to hold the valves up. Shoe strings is way too short and small to have enought string in there to hold the valve up. I used a small clean rope on all of my valves when I did my roller rocker install with new valve springs. I would suggest this because having the valves drop at all, AT ALL, has a huge impact on how easy it is to get the keepres out and how hard it is to get the keepers reseated correctly when you install the new ones.
SPECIAL NOTE!!!!!
There are a couple holes in the heads where oil drains back down to the crank case, block these with paper towels! If one keeper goes down there you will want to shoot yourself.
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Good advice, Blaze. I'll bet you a dollar I pop one off and it goes down the intake, instead!2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
I just finished installing my Hurst short throw shifter and chrome 16" handle (pics to come ASAP, I promise) and I'm stuck on what to use for a shift knob.
8-ball is too played out and I'm not sure a cue ball is unique enough, either (not to mention that I don't play pool nearly as much as I'd like to).
I want something unique and cheap. I can get anything drilled and tapped for ~$5. I want an item that's $10 or less if I can, just to keep it interesting.
Give me your ideas!2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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