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Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
I went to the junk yard today. I picked up the following:
Mustang "5.0 H.O." plate (if it'll fit, I'll have a choice of which to use)
Speaker bezels for the front doors (maroon, but I have interior paint)
The wiring harness for the T5 reverse lights
Throttle and cruise control cables from a 4.6l Lincoln TC... I have a few ideas of what I can do. I think these will be long enough for any possibilities.
Son's nap time- update later with pictures.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
Going to a welder tomorrow for some quick welds. Ignore the fact that the clutch stuff is not straight- it's just not welded in, yet.
Tomorrow, I'll go get a hole saw the size of my firewall adjuster, measure the hole for the clutch cable, and do all this pedal/brake booster swapping and all the clearance "trimming" except for the shifter hole. Hopefully- depends on the weather.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
That is going to be the phattest waggin once its done. A T-5 in a wagon has gotta be uber-ultra-rare. Good work so far man
1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
That is going to be the phattest waggin once its done. A T-5 in a wagon has gotta be uber-ultra-rare. Good work so far man
Thanks... this has pushed my mechanical ability and knowledge far beyond what it was before I found the other site. Shortly after, GMGT invited me here.
It doesn't look like I'll get to the installation today, since my mom's being lazy and my babysitter has a real job, now.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
We made a lot of progress last night. The main girdle required lots of grinding on the spine of the oil pump, the stud right below the oil pump, and the girdle itself. I'll post up very detailed pictures of that tonight.
We also installed the new double-roller timing assembly. The stock was a single roller... I thought they were double, but it wasn't. My lopo stock was double, though. We had fitment issues and snapped the FRPP thrust plate, not realizing the cam had slipped out of the block slightly, but we put the stock piece back on (th supplied plate was only for 351w, anyway) and it's fine. We were having fitment issues, but I realized he was trying to put the crank sprocket backwards and all is well. He'd never dealt with a double roller before and I'd never dealt with aftermarket timing equipment, so it took a few minutes, but we got it.
I stripped down all the brackets and sprayed the Hell out of them with engine cleaner. They look good and the black paint on the painted ones looks great, so I'll leave them as they are. The less work the better. Tonight, we'll clean up the CV oil pan and paint it, as well as clean up the block and paint it. We may even start to reassemble the top end, but I think I'm going to give it a day or two to dry.
It's coming along nicely, though. We hope to get the engine and transmission mounted this weekend, which would allow me to do the random wiring and such in my afternoons after work.
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)
I snapped the front passenger side lower intake manifold bolt while removing it to paint the motor. I've tried drilling into it a bit and using a reverse-cut drill bit, but nothing is working.
I've dulled three drill bits and broken two. None of my local connections with welders are available. Those that are refuse to come help.
[/rant]
2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
It broke in the head itself? That sucks. EZ-Outs are frickin useless tools. About all they ever seem to do is break off in the bolt, and since they're hardened, you can't drill them out. Soak the hell out of it in some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. Maybe it'll loosen and you can get something to grab it and break it loose.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
. EZ-Outs are frickin useless tools. About all they ever seem to do is break off in the bolt, and since they're hardened, you can't drill them out.
You have to be smarter than the tool
If the bolt broke because it was rusted or otherwise frozen, some times it takes heat or other methods in addition to your ez-out. Never apply more torque than the ez-out is meant for.
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