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Transmission Oil Change? Yes or No

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    #1

    Transmission Oil Change? Yes or No

    So my newest member of my panther collection has some slipping transmission issues....
    The day I brought the car home, the transmission line broke. I noticed right away and pulled over, we fixed it then and there (it was fixed before and that fix broke), filled up the fluid and continued.
    I emailed the previous owner regarding this and he told me, it broke on him as well and he also noticed right away and fixed it. The car was not driven without transmission fluid. However the fluid that came out that day was brown. I am hearing different opinions on changing the filter and transmission fluid. Some say, DON'T do it you will f.... up your transmission! Apparently whatever is in the old fluid is needed in there and others say Go for it. The car only has 114000 km on it, original engine and transmission.

    What is your opinion on changing transmission fluids?
    1995 Lincoln Town Car Executive Series: "Albert" my daily driver
    1988 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series: "Don Vito Corleone" my Summer Cruise
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2004 Grand Marquis LS: "The Boss" with floor shifter (loved it) - R.I.P.
    1997 Crown Victoria: "Victoria, the Armadillo" R.I.P.
    2003 Lincoln Town Car: "Nikkatello" - R.I.P. (Miss you the most)
    1995 Grand Marquis: "Gustavo Gonzales, the dirty Mexican" - R.I.P.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Just change the trans fluid.
    New fluid will always be better than whatever old crap is in there, as long as it's the correct fluid for the application.

    Lifetime trans fluids are bullshit and so is someone telling to not change your trans fluid.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

    Comment

      #3
      Change it and the filter. If it breaks, it was going to anyway.
      1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
      1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

      Comment

        #4
        ^^ thats my theory on it. Never subscribed to the idea of running bad fluid to keep a transmission alive. I've changed several that were obviously way past due and had no issues with it. I think that "I changed the fluid and it died" thing comes from people who have a transmission thats got some major problem going on, they changed the fluid expecting a miracle, then it went ahead and failed like it was going to do anyway.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          I've done fluid and filter on a handful of these cars, several of which were definitely a little "past due". Last one was a '99 CV that had a torque converter shudder and what I got out was nasty brown ATF. Car had roughly 200K on it. Gave it fresh Mercon V and it delivered appropriately firm shifts and no more shudder.

          As everyone else has said before, if you change it and it dies, it was already very much dead.


          My Cars:
          -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
          -1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser          ​
          -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
          -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (343K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
          -1997 Grand Marquis LS (244K Miles) - March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner - Sold (05/2011 - 07/2024)

          Comment

            #6
            The clutches are probably worn out. The torque converter as well (if AODE/4R7x). New fluid may help, but yeah... if it craps itself shortly, it was because the clutches were worn out. If this is an AOD, tighten up the TV cable just a little and might need to look into a shift kit. If it's an AODE/4R7x, look into a j-mod.

            I know this is in the box section, but the actual car wasn't mentioned. Signature lists an aero and a box, so I'm covering all bases.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment

              #7
              change it
              No ... I'm not arguing with you ... I'm just explaining why I'm right ...

              Now go ... and whatever you do ... have a safe trip!

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
                I've done fluid and filter on a handful of these cars, several of which were definitely a little "past due". Last one was a '99 CV that had a torque converter shudder and what I got out was nasty brown ATF. Car had roughly 200K on it. Gave it fresh Mercon V and it delivered appropriately firm shifts and no more shudder.

                As everyone else has said before, if you change it and it dies, it was already very much dead.
                Yah, every car I've ever changed it only resulted in improvements. There was one outlier- a 1991 Mark VII. Trans shifted like ass going from 3rd to 4th anyway and unfortunately I never adjusted the TV linkage. Fluid & filter were changed- that car lost OD some three or four months later. I do not blame the fluid change- I instead point to the hard shifting. That was also an experiment- everyone says you should have more TV pressure than less and that you want a firmer shift.. but I don't subscribe to that. If the internals are stock- set it up to shift stock, least with an AOD. I've put well over 40k on the on in my '88 with zero issues.
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                Comment

                  #9
                  You said its already slipping. So what will it hurt to change it? Sounds like its already cooked.
                  1987 CV LX 5.0

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Change the fluid and filter now and start saving for a rebuild now. Maybe you can save enough before the trans quits.
                    Just don't go to one of those transmission fluid FLUSH places.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      A lot of the “don’t change it” myth is based around the notion of the fresh detergents in the new fluid washing sediment and debris from one part of the valve body to another, where it may collect and cause other issues. That’s about as true as having bad luck from breaking a mirror.

                      I’ve pulled valve bodies that have had multiple fluid changes/flushes that still had build-up in the valve body. Years ago, I bought a fox-t-bird that had 178k miles of hateful neglect at the hands of a Chevy lover. The trans fluid was BLACK and right before swapping to a T5, I decided to do a 20qt flush with a machine at work. I didn’t realize how bad the trans shifted and generally behaved until I flushed it. It was like new afterward and I was even able to get a few bucks for it!
                      '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        I really find it refreshing that we have a bunch of people here that think logically. At least some of the time
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I have heard of this over the years, but never practiced it myself.
                          This story is right up there with "pack the pan full of sawdust".
                          Which does work but that's a last ditch effort
                          ..

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