Lowering a Box

[Arquemann]

I'm guessing there's not much point in lowering springs over cutting the springs since mine's just a stock budget cruiser. Or are there some cheap direct fit springs for something that are readily available even here in Finland?

Just a couple questions:
- How much can be "safely and responsibly" cut off the springs?
- What hits / rubs first in a lowered box? Tie rods, wheelwells, tires running into fenders etc.
- How far would I have to go before I should take into consideration things like shocks bottoming out, roll center relocation, balljoint angles and such?

My goal is to just make it look nice and lower, nothing too aggressive. I want it as low as possible without affecting useability much. Atleast 3 regular size chicks in the backseat without the fear of bottoming out
Running the original wheels for now.

Here's how she sits currently:

Springs seem healthy, though it did seem like there was one of those weird coil blocks in one corner.


These Panthers are in ways similar to older Ferds that the coil springs will try to kill you and your neighbour when released from it's place?
And I won't necessarily need a spring compressor to get them back in after cutting x amount off?

Please post pics of your lowered boxes and tell what you did, before/after if possible.

[kishy]

I cannot confidently answer your questions exactly as you have asked them, however, I can direct you to this post in my wagon thread: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post844281

Specifically,

As I found it: https://imgur.com/r6IGHvk
Same springs as above, after front end rebuild, no hood installed: https://imgur.com/9zGWAVi
Same springs as above, 1.0 coil cut: https://imgur.com/dCibVZL
Different set of springs, which were found to behave same as springs above, now with 0.6 coil cut: https://imgur.com/fNKoxIT
The car has settled somewhat since that last photo above.
It seems to me your car already sits a little low particularly in the front, so it is possible some effort was already done by a previous owner to lower it, or your springs may be worn/sagging.

I do not consider my car meaningfully "lowered" but this may help provide some insight into "amount of coil removed" vs "resulting change in ride height".

[Rodentkiller]

Don't waist your time lowering your car, due to the possability of destroying your oil pan and thus creating a massive oil leak that will destroy your engine.

[Arquemann]

Interesting that my car seems lower than kishy's cool wagon even with it having cut springs...

My springs might actually be somewhat tired then, oh well.
I can't go too low as the parking spot and driveway are pretty steep. First couple times I scraped the belly of my Audi, but quickly learned to go a bit sideways. I don't think I'll have any problem with the MGM with how low I want it realistically. Only the long front and rear overhangs might be problematic since my spot is in an angle. Might just be hyperbole anyways.

I found a couple lowered boxes on the web, I find these boxes pretty freaking sexy when lowered.

First one is a member and other's just someone from cardomain.
Both are way lower than I can go but damn those look good like that.

[Arquemann]

Abort mission.

All the ball joint rubbers are close to done or split already and I just can't get the lower or upper to let loose.
Also the shocks just spin in place.

I guess I'll have to let it be this time. Anyone make drop spindles for boxes?

[JeffBoudah]

I can tell how not to lower a box. Lol

[AngryMcMuffin]

Abort mission.

All the ball joint rubbers are close to done or split already and I just can't get the lower or upper to let loose.
Also the shocks just spin in place.

I guess I'll have to let it be this time. Anyone make drop spindles for boxes?

So, I installed new shocks, they were a pain. Had to cut out the rear shocks with a sawzall by reaching in between the gap in the wheel well with the blade and cutting through the base of the top nut. But I got it done.

Something like PB Blaster or the better WD-40 equivalent every day for a week before trying to get stuff loose always helps me out. Saved my from breaking anything when removing exhaust manifolds many times.

[Giraffe]

A little late, but here are my two cents...

Don't waist your time lowering your car, due to the possability of destroying your oil pan and thus creating a massive oil leak that will destroy your engine.

I would consider this highly unlikely given the amount of ground clearance these cars have to begin with. Lowering the car an inch or less up front wouldn't endanger the oil pan to an extent that would make it unreasonable.

Abort mission.

All the ball joint rubbers are close to done or split already and I just can't get the lower or upper to let loose.
Also the shocks just spin in place.

I guess I'll have to let it be this time. Anyone make drop spindles for boxes?

If you're having trouble separating the spindle from the ball joints (as pretty much everyone does if they've never been replaced), a good ol' big hammer will help separate them. Not sure how many hits it will take. Every spindle and ball joint is different.

If you have access to air tools, I would definitely recommend an air hammer for this task.

[packman]

When I first lowered the '86 CV, I was anxious about a 2" drop. As it were, my ill-fitting BBK H-pipe was what I needed to be anxious about. It hung low and hit just about anything higher than an acorn. That's the only thing I'm anxious about with the current set-up; if I ever get it back on the road again.

[Arquemann]

I scrapped the idea mainly due to not wanting to pull apart all the ball joints at that time.
As I mentioned, many of the boots were torn and split, so hammering the joints loose definitely wouldn't help. And the spinning shocks would've been a pain in the arse too.

I don't know what I'll do when springtime comes, I didn't get any issues in the inspection last year, but next time I might not be so lucky. Torn ball joint boots are an advisory "to-fix". There's also a solid clunk from the front end at low speed bumps or driveways. I guess I'll have to sort out that too.

Lowering the car isn't completely out of the question, but it really needs all the balljoints done while I'm in there. As far as the lowest points of the car, probably the engine crossmember and trans pan. Not really scared of the belly of the car, more about the poor angle of the lower control arms and ride quality. Would have to keep some rake too, fine folks in the backseat aren't that rare. I can tell from experience, getting three normal-ish sized ladies in the backseat and then scraping on everything is very embarrassing.
I might be around the wrong folks where no one is scared about some scraping and rubbing... Whereas the MGM goes boing over a speedbump and all the others go nice and slow

Air suspension is fucking expensive man...

[JeffBoudah]

These will give you that awesome slammed look and make your car completely useless. You need shorter front shocks and pull the bump stops too. It basically sits on them up front. Ha

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tru-Coil-Racing-Coil-Springs-Front-5-1-2-x-9-1-2Inch,169.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rear-Springs-1960-72-Chevy-Truck-3-In-Drop-1967-72-Chevelle-1-In-Drop,46248.html

[87gtVIC]

These will give you that awesome slammed look and make your car completely useless. You need shorter front shocks and pull the bump stops too. It basically sits on them up front. Ha

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tru-Coil-Racing-Coil-Springs-Front-5-1-2-x-9-1-2Inch,169.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rear-...rop,46248.html

What spring rate for the front are you taking here?

[JeffBoudah]

I put the 1200's, rode like hell, 2/10 do not recommend. This was intentional as I knew the suspension only had about maybe 2" of travel left before the lower arms contacted the frame.

PS when I go to edit my post the delete button is like right where I tap to scroll down!

[1987cp]

IIRC, the guy who wanted my '87 wagon for a derby car said he always put Chevy spindles right on the Ford control arms. If you can get B body drop spindles that fit your budget even if it turns out you can't use them, it might be a worthwhile experiment.

In case it wasn't clear, you should bash the spindle where it goes around the balljoints, with the castle nuts still on a couple of turns. Once the balljoints let go, you can put a floor jack under the lower A arm before removing the balljoint nuts and CAREFULLY lowering the jack with your body off to the side.

Former Car Craft and Hot Rod editor David Freiburger did a Roadkill Extra segment a while back about pulling front coils, so you can probably find that if you subscribe to Motor Trend On Demand.

[Arquemann]

IIRC, the guy who wanted my '87 wagon for a derby car said he always put Chevy spindles right on the Ford control arms. If you can get B body drop spindles that fit your budget even if it turns out you can't use them, it might be a worthwhile experiment.

Well shoot, you got me quite interested. Which B-body? 60's, 70's, or maybe even the '92-'96?
A derby car needs brakes, right? Ford discs/bearings and calipers probably won't just bolt on...