So you want to swap your steering wheel in your box but the new steering wheel you have will not mount to your steering shaft.
There are two styles of steering wheel mount/steering shaft for '79-'89 box panthers.
If I understand correctly, '79-'82 has a round splined shaft that the steering wheel mounts to while '83-'89 has a shaft with 2 flat sides that the steering wheel mounts to.
This thread details what I learned about swapping one shaft for the other without dropping the steering column. This thread applies to '79-89 boxes with steering wheel tilt.
This thread does not apply, afik, to '90-'91 boxes because aero-dash/steering wheel with a bomb. Although I kind of want to tear apart one of my '91 MGMs to see if the shaft would swap.
There are two styles of steering wheel mount/steering shaft for '79-'89 box panthers.
If I understand correctly, '79-'82 has a round splined shaft that the steering wheel mounts to while '83-'89 has a shaft with 2 flat sides that the steering wheel mounts to.
This thread details what I learned about swapping one shaft for the other without dropping the steering column. This thread applies to '79-89 boxes with steering wheel tilt.
This thread does not apply, afik, to '90-'91 boxes because aero-dash/steering wheel with a bomb. Although I kind of want to tear apart one of my '91 MGMs to see if the shaft would swap.
- Remove the Steering wheel
- Pull the horn pad
- Remove the bolt (later style) or nut (early style)
- Get your steering wheel puller out (or rent one)
- Remove the plastic collar at the top of the steering column.
- Remove plate and spring.
- Two screws hold the plate on
- The plate has attached to it the electrical contacts for the horn and cruise (if equipped). You may need to remove the lower steering column shroud since you may need to disconnect the the electrical connector for this in order to get enough slack to remove the plate.
- The spring and plate will then just pull off.
- The plate also has a plastic clip which the collar in the previous step clips into. Don't forget to put this thing on before you tighten the plate down during re-assembly.
- Remove the C-clip at the base of the steering wheel mount shaft
- It likes to go flying, so watch out for that
- Remove the tilt spring
- Tilt the wheel all the way
- Remove the pivot pins for the tilt housing
- I used a 2 inch 8-32 screw (at least that's what the bin at the hardware store was labeled) and nut along with a small socket as a puller. (The electrical tape was an attempt to not mark the part up.)
- Unlike the picture, I realized I only needed one socket, and a washer between the nut and socket. The socket must be wide enough to pull the pivot pin into it.
- The 11/32 or 9mm socket to tun the nut slipped right over the screw head.
- I broke one screw and bent another, so pick up a few of them and maybe go slow when pulling. Luckily there was more than enough screw left to clamp onto and extract the part that broke off in the pivot pin.
- For reinstall, thread the pin onto the screw. Twist as you insert it to make sure the spline line up. Lightly tap it in the rest of the way. It should tap in pretty easy as long as the splines are lined up right. If not, pull it back out and try again.
- Remove the tilt housing
- If it doesn't come off by hand, grab your pulley puller or rent one.
- Pull the shaft out
- Reinstalling the steering wheel probably would have helped.
- I removed the bolt in the engine bay instead, but that's pretty easy to do without an engine in the way.
Comment