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8.8 rebuild and new gears

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    #1

    8.8 rebuild and new gears

    First 8.8 rebuild for me. Just to the point of setting pinion depth. Going back about 4 years blew the gears out of Creamy shifting into 2 at 7200 RPM in front of the local Ford dealer. Was going to use what was left for mock up of axles and brakes. Left it out side while I went north to pick up Casper to use its rear end (which is in Creamy currently). Well got back and some ass hole scrapper stole it. All the yards here wanted 175.00 exchange for a rear axle assembly out of a panther which didnt sit well with me. So back to present found one for 100.00 without an exchange.
    Bearings, gears ext were all purchased around 3 years ago. Only needed the carrier (as this one is an open diff) and brake test fitting.

    I have built a lot of 9" rears and looking at the 8.8 its basically junk and difficult to build compared to a 9" in my book.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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    #2
    Its not a heavy duty rear. Anything that uses the axle shaft as the inner bearing race isn't a serious axle assembly. Its cheaper to make, and its "good enough", which is really what Ford was after. Considering how they held up to the vehicle in stock form, I'd say they hit the mark.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment

      #3
      8.8 has been used in so many cars and trucks it doesn't make sense to use anything else unless you are building a ridiculously high power monster. The axles will give out before the diff will.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by Mr Bean View Post
        The axles will give out before the diff will.

        About that...
        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

        Comment

          #5
          Mostly my issue with them is the lack of a proper axle bearing race. I know it lasts long enough, its just a cheap way to do it.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment

            #6
            My gripe is there a pain to set up properly.
            Strength wise the carrier bearing caps are the weakest point. Bearings riding on the axle isnt all that weak but a point of early excessive wear and pricey to repair.
            C clips are another issue if they bust going around a corner your lucky if you and/or your vehicle survive. So much for copying a Chevy design.

            Setting pinion depth best to hone out a extra bearing to test add shims until desired pinion depth is reached. Technically the pinion should be fully installed and torked. At finial fitting if the gear pattern isnt correct the pinion might need to be removed as well as the carrier. If the pinion brg was pressed on to add or subtract a shim to correct pattern it must be removed wit ha press and re installed and a new crush sleeve. A 9" PINION CARRIER IS SET UP AND shims to alter depth go between the pinion carrier and the differential hsg. Thusly the whole assembly dosent need to be disassembled.

            The carrier assembly is a bit better than a Chevy as the shims are installed outside the carrier instead of under the pressed on bearings. The 9" you assemble it in the hsg and spin rings that adjust carrier right and left then set preload no pulling shims in and out.
            Scars are tatoos of the fearless

            Comment

              #7
              8.8's can be built to repeatably go into the low 7's. Not really worth the additional parasitic loss going with a 9"

              Comment

                #8
                The only parasitic loss is the style of the pinion carrier brg there are solution's for that. I have run 9.36 wit ha stock 9" daily driver for years, lower gears like 5 or 6 something and would have been in the 7s maybe 6s. Seems talking with Moser, Strange and Mark Williams they perty much agree. So does NASCAR as most run 9" rears.
                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                Comment

                  #9
                  Disc brakes keep the wheel on even if the axle breaks. Definitely no problem losing a C clip with one, hell it'll even hold the wheel on if the outer bearing fails and causes the axle to shear off outboard of that. I speak from experience on that one
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                    #10
                    How does one drop 3 seconds with a gear ratio change?

                    Comment

                      #11
                      move to a 1/8 mile track from a 1/4 ?
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by JeffBoudah View Post
                        How does one drop 3 seconds with a gear ratio change?
                        When you have an engine that turns over 10,000 RPM and gears allowed it to go over 200 MPH. HP to weight ratio around 3 to 1
                        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                        Comment

                          #13
                          :Facepalm:

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Spent half the day making a pinion flange holding tool. Worked fine. I found a larger flange for 1330 universals been running a bastard 1310/1330.
                            Actually stretched one or both hoops the universal cap go through though it was a bad universal at first.

                            Hopefully pinion depth is set correctly 2.548 measured and what is marked on the gear.

                            Havent done a tooth pattern check but hitting about 28 lb in rotating the pinion which is max speck .22 lb in nom, hope to drop it a bit. So far backlash is is .009 without the caps bolted down. .007 to .009 is what the company that made my gears calls for. I think Ford calls for a nominal of .010 have to double check.

                            Pattern check next may find falt with some of these settings and another tear down and reassembly's until all is correct.

                            Click image for larger version Name: 8.8 001.jpg Views: 1 Size: 107.2 KB ID: 1278104 Click image for larger version Name: 8.8 002.jpg Views: 1 Size: 112.2 KB ID: 1278105 Click image for larger version Name: 8.8 003.jpg Views: 1 Size: 91.8 KB ID: 1278106
                            Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Spent all day fooling with pinion shims seems like the depth dim marked on the pinion didnt help much neither it seems was the gear mfgs backlash specs. Getting close to proper tooth pattern by increasing back lash and reducing pinion depth must of had the thing apart 10 times or more. Restacked the carrier shims around 30 times or more. Had to purchase some more crush sleeves but they are crap they crush too easy so dont meet min torq properly have to get some from the Ford dealer I guess
                              Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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