Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Buying control arm bushings (need to make sure I have everything I need

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Buying control arm bushings (need to make sure I have everything I need

    I am buying this to redo the front end of my Lincoln

    MOOG Part # K8616
    {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers335887, 335898, 369816, 382368, 388213, 390407, 3975588, 404228, D9AZ3068B, D9AZ3068C}

    Incl. front and rear bushings; Package Quantity As Shown In Image
    Front Upper; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

    Is this all I need?

    It says front upper, but it looks liek it has all four to do one side, no?
    "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

    -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
    -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
    -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
    -2011 Subaru Outback

    #2
    Sorry clarification.

    I am buying this through ROckauto
    "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

    -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
    -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
    -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
    -2011 Subaru Outback

    Comment


      #3
      looks like enough to do both upper arms. You'll need lower bushings too and ball joints if you want to do all of that as well and a coil spring compressor (the one that fits up where the shock is mounted). A bushing press is a very handy tool unless you have access to an air hammer and large chisel bits to pound the bushings out of the arm. The new ones press in pretty easy.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #4
        I have this for the lower (it's crazy that the lowers are twice as much

        MOOG Part # K8618 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Incl. front and rear bushings
        Front Lower; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

        For the ball jonts, I have these:


        Suspension : Ball Joint

        MOOG Part # K8259 {#D8BZ3078A, D8BZ3078B, D8BZ3079A, D8BZ3079B, D9AZ3078A, D9AZ3079A, D9BZ3078A, D9BZ3079A, E0AZ3078A, E0AZ3078B, E0AZ3079A, E0AZ3079B, E0SZ3078A, E0SZ3079A, E0VY3078A, E0VY3079A, E1BZ3078A, E1BZ3079A, E3DZ3078A, E3DZ3079A, E3SZ3078A, E3SZ3078B, E3SZ3078C, E3SZ3079A, E3SZ3079B, E3SZ3079C, E3ZZ3078A, E3ZZ3078B, E3ZZ3079A, E3ZZ3079B, E5SZ3078A, E5SZ3079A, E69Z3078A, E69Z3078B, E69Z3079A, E69Z3079B, E7SZ3078A, E7SZ3079A, F1VY3078A, F1VY3078B, F1VY3079A, F1VY3079B, F3AZ3078A, F3AZ3079A} Problem Solver
        Front Lower; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces
        $33.79 $67.58

        MOOG Part # K8310 {#D9AZ3038C, D9AZ3082A, D9AZ3082B, D9AZ3082C, D9AZ3083A, D9AZ3083B, D9AZ3083V, E0AZ3082B, E0AZ3082C, E0AZ3083B, E0AZ3083C, E1AZ3082A, E1AZ3082B, E1AZ3083A, E1AZ3083B} Problem Solver
        Front Upper; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces

        Yeah I am a bit concerned about trying to get the old ones out (ball joints and bushings)
        "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

        -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
        -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
        -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
        -2011 Subaru Outback

        Comment


          #5
          the lowers are also twice the size. Yes, they are huge compared to the uppers... but then they carry most of the weight and the uppers are just there for stabilizers. The ball joints up top require grinding/drilling out. Ball joint press for the lowers. I'd let a shop do those personally, even though it's spendy work, because it's very much a pain in the ass to do. I get an air hammer, that may be a different story as that helps knocking pressed in items out greatly.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment


            #6
            I was going to let the shop press in-press ot the ball joints.

            Now im kinda thinking that I would let them press out the bushings too!

            I think I do have an air hammer, what kind of tip should I use for this (pressing out bushings).
            "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

            -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
            -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
            -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
            -2011 Subaru Outback

            Comment


              #7
              most guys I know use a wide bit (chisel - like 1.5-2 inch) and let it bang on the exposed shell to force it out. With the quick pulsing of the air hammer, it's usually a quick job.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                #8
                If you have the option of complete replacement arms, go that route. It will likely be cheaper than rebuilding the old ones with bushings and ball joints.

                Now would be the time to replace the springs if they are saggy, shocks, and any of the rest of the steering bits. Its also the time to go big brakes if you've got any intentions on ever doing it.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  If you have the option of complete replacement arms, go that route. It will likely be cheaper than rebuilding the old ones with bushings and ball joints.

                  Now would be the time to replace the springs if they are saggy, shocks, and any of the rest of the steering bits. Its also the time to go big brakes if you've got any intentions on ever doing it.
                  +1 with respect to using complete arms if possible and doing everything in one go. I did a lot of that stuff on mine some months ago and put some links covering my experiences in the following thread:



                  I'm not sure how similar your car would be to mine, but there are probably a lot of things in common.

                  2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                  mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Without hesitation, I would use new loaded arms before going through all that.
                    Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yep, new lower controls arm are like $70.
                      2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                      2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                      2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                      1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I went the route of rebuilding the arms. (And the whole front end for that matter...) It would have been a much easier job if I didn't do it in like three different weekends where I had to reassemble everything by the end of the weekend so I could drive to work. It probably would have taken me at least half the time to get everything done. Like everyone said, whole arms are easier. Might as well replace the springs and shocks while you're there if you want to. You can actually replace the upper arms without diassembling anything but disconnecting the upper ball joint and of course the upper arm from the frame. The spring and shock sit inside the frame rail and don't rest on the upper arm.

                        I replaced my bushings with Energy Suspension Poly bushings and ball joints with Moog replacements. The bushing replacement isn't bad, you just burn out the others and hope the neighbors don't call the cops on you for the toxic smoke cloud that happens. For the ball joints, drilling out the top was annoying but I was able to drill them out in about an hour max. I used a pickle fork to pry the rest of it off the arm when they were mostly drilled out. I guess I could have removed the arm first, that might have made it easier. For pressing in the lowers, AutoZone rents the tool and does a decent job. That also isn't so bad. I used an impact gun on it even though the tool says not to then a breaker bar to push it the rest of the way.

                        I didn't go whole arm replacement because I wanted poly bushings instead of replacement rubbers. Replacing the arms would be easier but I've read that the poly will last much longer.

                        '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Well, I had planned on buying this for my front end rebuild

                          For shocks: KYB Part # 343128 GR-2 / Excel-G
                          For springs: MOOG Part # 9114 {#D9AZ5310S} Sold In Pairs Constant Rate Springs
                          For control arm bushings: MOOG Part # K8616 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Incl. front and rear bushings. Front Upper; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

                          MOOG Part # K8618 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Incl. front and rear bushings
                          Front Lower; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

                          And for ball joints: MOOG Part # K8259 Front lower and MOOG Part # K8310 Front upper

                          So everyone here is saying its easier just to buy the control arms out rather then rebuilding them? DO they come with the bushing in ti already?
                          "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                          -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                          -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                          -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                          -2011 Subaru Outback

                          Comment


                            #14
                            BTW, rockauto doesn't have the whole control arms. Where are you reading or seeing control arms for $70??
                            "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                            -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                            -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                            -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                            -2011 Subaru Outback

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by porschpow View Post
                              BTW, rockauto doesn't have the whole control arms. Where are you reading or seeing control arms for $70??
                              This... inquiring minds want to know.

                              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                              Originally posted by dmccaig
                              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X