Power Steering Gearbox.

[gadget73]

no puller. Just remove the cotter pin and castle nut from where the pitman arm connects to the center link. You may need to whack that spot with a hammer to make it let go, or use a pickle fork if its well and truly stuck. Most of the time a whack with a hammer on the center link where the stub from the pitman arm comes through will make it let go though.

[slack]

I did a some-what of a write up in my ride page.

Here's the link if interested: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post723908

I just saw there was a typo. Where I was talking about the castle nut free spinning, that was on the pit man arm to the center link, not the balljoint to the control arm.

If you're replacing the pitman arm and the gear box, it's basically disconnect and replace. The old pitman arm doesn't need to be pulled off but you do need the nut and lock washer from the old gear box. That thing is a monster to get off and I used a huge fence pipe on the end of my ratchet as a breaker bar. Pressing on the new pitman arm, I always just used the nut and lock washer and kept tightening until it was pressed all the way on.

I had to replace my pitman arm because I originally bought a Mevotech one and that cheap thing failed within 6 months. I have a Moog on there now with no complaints.

[miamibob]

I did a some-what of a write up in my ride page.

Here's the link if interested: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post723908

I just saw there was a typo. Where I was talking about the castle nut free spinning, that was on the pit man arm to the center link, not the balljoint to the control arm.

If you're replacing the pitman arm and the gear box, it's basically disconnect and replace. The old pitman arm doesn't need to be pulled off but you do need the nut and lock washer from the old gear box. That thing is a monster to get off and I used a huge fence pipe on the end of my ratchet as a breaker bar. Pressing on the new pitman arm, I always just used the nut and lock washer and kept tightening until it was pressed all the way on.

I had to replace my pitman arm because I originally bought a Mevotech one and that cheap thing failed within 6 months. I have a Moog on there now with no complaints.

I believe Mevotech products are designed here but made in Scotty's favorite country in the entire world!!! Is ther not also a 5 year warranty???

[slack]

Haha. There might have been but I didn't want to put another one on and have it blow up on me again in 6 months. Everything else I replaced with Moog so I figured I would keep things consistent. I think the Mevotech pitman arm was only like $12 anyway. The Moog one was around $36.

I see they have wholesaler close out on RockAuto for the Moog on now for $15. Pretty good deal.

[kishy]

I see they have wholesaler close out on RockAuto for the Moog on now for $15. Pretty good deal.

I picked up two Moog (private labeled, I believe CarQuest, but clearly marked on the part as Moog Problem Solver) pitman arms for $12 each a couple months ago...definitely a part worth waiting for a cheaper price if it's not urgent, since the savings can more than cover the shipping cost.

[85crownHPP]

yowzers! I bought a moog pitman arm from a parts store (because I didn't want to wait) and it was $60, after discount!
Luckily I found mine had no play (and is greasable) so I returned the new one.

[gadget73]

I like closeout sales from Rockauto. If you don't mind oddly branded boxes, you can get some good stuff. I got brandy new Kelsey-Hayes rear calipers for my Mark VII for like $18 each in white boxes. The regular price was something like $50 each at the time for reman calipers.