Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

two frame repair questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    two frame repair questions

    I found out my "minor frame rot" right behind the front right wheel is a bit more advanced. I'm going to end up plating or replacing everything on the inner side of that weld on the torque box, and the area around the trans crossmember mount. This isn't an issue as I work with a certified welder, but I have two questions:

    1. are there any non-obvious frame rot places to check? I know there's some thin spots in front of the crossmember on the driver's side but the rear frame horns and around the rear axle look solid, as does everything else I could see on the main frame rails under the doors.

    2. how should I support the front of the car while doing this welding? If I'm going to be cutting the stuff out, I'm sure it'll sag if it hasn't already. Should I be supporting the front crossmember? The right front control arm? Maybe somewhere under the doors? If I'm going to weld it all up I want it to be welded, you know, straight. The lift points with the hoist I have are right on the frame in front of the rear wheel and behind the front wheel, if that makes a difference.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

    #2
    I am guessing the car will be up on a lift?

    Are you going to be able to do the welding without removing the lower control arm?

    IMHO you will have to do some guestimating. If you make sure the frame on both sides are the same distance above the ground you would think that setting the bullnose heights the same before your weld job would be right. I don not think it is because the left side will be flexed down. If you weld the right side it will not be flexed and the left will. So you would probably need to make sure the right bullnose is a bit (guesstimate) higher than the left. Again assuming the frame height from ground is the same right and left.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by jaywish View Post
      I am guessing the car will be up on a lift?

      Are you going to be able to do the welding without removing the lower control arm?

      IMHO you will have to do some guestimating. If you make sure the frame on both sides are the same distance above the ground you would think that setting the bullnose heights the same before your weld job would be right. I don not think it is because the left side will be flexed down. If you weld the right side it will not be flexed and the left will. So you would probably need to make sure the right bullnose is a bit (guesstimate) higher than the left. Again assuming the frame height from ground is the same right and left.
      yes, the car will be on a lift. I'm not welding near that near the front suspension. In this picture, I would be welding the dark/rusty area directly to the left of the cat in this picture, and the area around the transmission crossmember



      What do you mean by bullnose?

      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

      Comment


        #4
        Bullnose = the end of the frame.
        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

        Comment


          #5
          I have found the area right side front torq box and the frame to the rear torq box rust issues my be traced back to the battery acid or fumes in a lot of cases. Before I have replaced these sections I wash them out wit ha water baking soda mix to neteralize any acid.
          Scars are tatoos of the fearless

          Comment

          Working...
          X