Which Motorcraft shocks (front) are better for a Town Car

[porschpow]

I am considering buy either the

MOTORCRAFT Part # ASHV1009 {#5U2Z18V124ZF}
Front; Exc. Limo; Replaced in Pairs

or the

MOTORCRAFT Part # ASHV1038 {#3U2Z18124AA, 5U2Z18V124ZL, ASH249}
Front; Replaced in Pairs; w/ Heavy Duty Suspension

For a smooth but solid feel, which shocks should I get? I don't want to be bouncing and I have the Monroe Leveling air shocks in the back!ng

[porschpow]

SHOCKS not Shicks, lol

But I had also noticed the left side of the car (front drivers) seem to be lower than the passenger. I guess its bad shocks, no???

[kodiak]

MNope, its springs. Shocks don't hold up the car, the springs do. Shocks minimize the bounce. I've heard good things about the KYB gas adjust shocks.

Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car

[porschpow]

tHAN i GUESS IT MAKES NO SENSE TO get new shocks first then new springs, right ??

[kodiak]

Yep, your shocks may be fine.

Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car

[porschpow]

I was tlaking to my guys at work and they said the car looks level, lol always someting

Anyway i'll do the test (knee on bumper and bounce it to see that it just goes down-up then down to normal level - Anything more means bad shocks)

I am really dreading to do spring. I have heard it is A REAL PITA TO DO.

[sly]

SHOCKS not Shicks, lol

But I had also noticed the left side of the car (front drivers) seem to be lower than the passenger. I guess its bad shocks, no???

Fixed that for ya.

[gadget73]

the springs aren't that big of a deal to do. it probably needs control arm bushings and ball joints anyway. swap the springs at the same time. also, bad rear springs can make the front sit crooked, and there is some amount of normally non-straightness with these cars. Not entirely sure what it is, but it seems like all of them have something of a lean.

[porschpow]

Yeah, I heard about this lean thing, the rear looks straight, but the front looks ok, looks to me like its leaning to the drivers side front.

What Else shouls I chnage while I am doing the front springs?

[slack]

I changed everything out when I did my front springs... I should have done the control arm bushings too but I didn't have time. I did springs, upper/lower ball joints, shocks, end links, sway bar bushing, rotors, inner/outer bearings. The end links, sway bar bushings, rotors, and bearings can all easily be done at another time or left alone if they're still good/new.

I used the KYB Gas-A-Justs shocks in the front and they seem to work really well. No complaints there.

[LithiumCobalt]

The problem that you will find with new shock absorbers is that likely none of the replacements available will have the same valving as the originals. I went through this nightmare with both of my '96 Town Cars when I replaced the rears. Nothing available, that I found, would give me the float that I like. I prefer soft suspensions and everything out there were generic parts that could be used on any FLM full size car. I would guess Lincolns had unique shocks from the factory that gave more comfortable rides. Stock on those is long gone, unfortunately. Also, what made finding Motorcraft replacements more agravating, is that the part number has been superceded some nine to ten times from the originals for a 1996. I am guessing it's far worse for 1989. If you want a soft ride, I'd recommend going with a set of the cheap Gabriels.

[sly]

the Gabriel Ultra from AZ works well for the float on my Mark VI. I'm actually thinking of getting some stiffer shocks for that one just because I prefer a little firmer ride.

[porschpow]

Yeah, I see Garbriels, Motorcraft and KYB seem to be good contentders.

How much of a hassle is it to change the control arm busshings and balljoints??

[sly]

ball joints are pressed out on the lowers and riveted in on the uppers. loaner tools for the lowers but you need a fn grinder/carbide drill to get those f'n rivets out of the uppers. the upper control arm bushings are cake with an air hammer. I have the bushing press that allows you to change them on the car too... it's a bit of a PITA for the rearward bushings, but it makes the frontward ones absolute cake. If replacing with energy suspension stuff, you will need to burn out the old bushings and that is a horrendous mess and will destroy something in the process (tools, clothes, etc). WD40 is great for cleaning burnt rubber off of tools FYI. You will obviously need an alignment after jacking with all that crap. if doing all of the above, budget about 6 hours at least and have varying levels of BFH, crow-bar, pickle fork, torch, breaker bar, impact wrench, etc. (got tired of thinking) on hand.

[LithiumCobalt]

Yeah, I see Garbriels, Motorcraft and KYB seem to be good contentders.

How much of a hassle is it to change the control arm busshings and balljoints??

I wouldn't bother with anything Motorcraft. All they are are basically Monroe shocks without the label (likely Sensacraps). They made my car ride like a lumber wagon. Not sure what KYB has, but seems like they are more performance oriented.

As for bushings and balljoints, I did this job and it wasn't fun. I bought the new Moog ball joints and bushings ahead of time, removed the control arms and took to a local shop. They pressed old out and new in for about $100 labor. For the upper arms, it's more cost effective to buy the arm with new bushings and ball joint as a whole assembly then to dick around replacing components. The lowers are nearly the same way.