Throttle/TV/Bushing...yada yada yada

[Grand1]

The 88 TC has had the grommet replaced....and the cable adjusted.
Smooth as silk while acceleration......OD kicks in around 42 to 44 ish........

-but-

after this mark, when I need to stop or brake....I get like a jerk... tight rope effect...while deceleration between OD and the under gears.

So its not during acceleration, but after.....I'm confused
no tranny fluid leaks or smells...

[gadget73]

probably the trans kicking down out of overdrive, or just you're feeling the direct coupling from engine to trans. The converter is fully locked in 3 and 4, so the drivetrain does tend to be somewhat clunkier as a result. Also, if your trans mount is in bad shape, it can make the trans thump and bang more than it should. Mine was very jelly-like at one point and it felt like a mule kicking the bottom of the floor if it upshifted to OD with my foot off the throttle. Check that, and check the trans crossmember to make sure its all still there. I had one end rotted on mine, which was probably part of the mule kick problem.

[sly]

yeah... trans downshift. My 88 does this with added force because of a shift kit. It really lets you know about it from 3-2.

[Grand1]

Thanks for your advice Gadget...I forgot to mention I have a higher stall torque converter as well.
Could it be the governor in cahoots? I think read some were the is a way to pressure test the AOD somehow.
While deceleration occurs from OD.... if I baby, I mean baby the acceleration pedal, the "rocking back and forth" is diminished tenfold.
Makes for an uncontrollable driving experience, given the erratic nature of people driving around me.

[Grand1]

yeah... trans downshift. My 88 does this with added force because of a shift kit. It really lets you know about it from 3-2.

Any detrimental effects on the tranny because of this?

....added info.....while going down hills....the jerking is more pronounced.

[slack]

There's a test port on the passenger's side of the transmission. You can hook up a pressure gauge to the port and check the trans pressure as you drive around. That's how I set my Tv pressure. I actually posted over at crownvic.net about it a while ago. (I'm sorry, I know... should have been here. )

Here's an image of where the port is:


Here's the thread if you're interested: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...37#Post2776937

[Louis]

Just had my '84 out for a drive today for the first time in almost 3 years....funny you should mention this as mine was doing the same (but not harsh). After a bit of driving I remembered that it was sort of par for the course to feel that 4 to 3 downshift in my '84....so used to driving my '98 with the newer electronic trans which shifts almost invisibly.

[Grand1]

There's a test port on the passenger's side of the transmission. You can hook up a pressure gauge to the port and check the trans pressure as you drive around. That's how I set my Tv pressure. I actually posted over at crownvic.net about it a while ago. (I'm sorry, I know... should have been here. )

Here's an image of where the port is:


Here's the thread if you're interested: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...37#Post2776937

What would be the ideal PSI?

[gadget73]

there is actually a whole procedure with that. It involves a block of some dimension to pull the cable out an amount, you set it to a pressure, then remove the block and make sure its not more than something else. i forget the specifics but its a number of steps and involves some goofy special tools officially. I think you can sub a drill bit for the spacer block though, and the shop manuals do give the drill bit size to use.


Just my opinion, make sure the stuff that holds the trans down is good before you go messing with adjustments. Never hurts to be sure its not banging because its ready to come through the floor.

[sly]

Any detrimental effects on the tranny because of this?

....added info.....while going down hills....the jerking is more pronounced.

nope. almost 50K on it with no issues. Though, mine doesn't slow me down going down hill unless the hill is almost nothing. Most of the speed limits around here prevent that condition. I also have a wide ratio gear-set in my AOD, so that will change things a bit as well. If the jerking causes handling issues, then it's more pronounced than mine by a long shot. If that's the case, I would think the pressure is way too high and all shifts would be very harsh. Mine will shift smooth for the most part except for OD since I have the "A" servo and wide band. kicks a bit going onto/out of OD, but it's not anywhere near enough to cause driveability issues.

[mitymerc]

nope. almost 50K on it with no issues. Though, mine doesn't slow me down going down hill unless the hill is almost nothing. Most of the speed limits around here prevent that condition. I also have a wide ratio gear-set in my AOD, so that will change things a bit as well. If the jerking causes handling issues, then it's more pronounced than mine by a long shot. If that's the case, I would think the pressure is way too high and all shifts would be very harsh. Mine will shift smooth for the most part except for OD since I have the "A" servo and wide band. kicks a bit going onto/out of OD, but it's not anywhere near enough to cause driveability issues.

J, what valve body are you using?

[kodiak]

there is actually a whole procedure with that. It involves a block of some dimension to pull the cable out an amount, you set it to a pressure, then remove the block and make sure its not more than something else. i forget the specifics but its a number of steps and involves some goofy special tools officially. I think you can sub a drill bit for the spacer block though, and the shop manuals do give the drill bit size to use.


Just my opinion, make sure the stuff that holds the trans down is good before you go messing with adjustments. Never hurts to be sure its not banging because its ready to come through the floor.

I just read about it online. 5/16 drill bit, 0-3 psi in drive at idle, 25-30 psi in drive with drill bit IIRC. No special tools other than the psi gauge. Found it on Performance Automotive website.

Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car

[sly]

J, what valve body are you using?

stock with a transgo shift kit. makes shifting the wide range gears interesting. I have it set up to shift later than usual to get the 2-3 WOT shift correct which requires pedaling it to get it to shift out of first into second. This way I don't have to shuffle it though. It does cause the 1-2 shift to be a little late, but meh... you get used to it.

[gadget73]

I just read about it online. 5/16 drill bit, 0-3 psi in drive at idle, 25-30 psi in drive with drill bit IIRC. No special tools other than the psi gauge. Found it on Performance Automotive website.

Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car

its easier with a CFI car. You can stick the drill bit in between the arm that works the cable and the throttle lever. The SEFi cars have the cable that you have to pull out. I think the official tool is basically a block with a slot cut in it. The slot goes around the cable at the end, and the block works as the spacer to pull the cable out some amount. It wouldn't be that hard to make, you'd basically just need a hunk of metal of the right thickness and a grinder with a cutting wheel to make the slot for the cable.

[slack]

its easier with a CFI car. You can stick the drill bit in between the arm that works the cable and the throttle lever. The SEFi cars have the cable that you have to pull out. I think the official tool is basically a block with a slot cut in it. The slot goes around the cable at the end, and the block works as the spacer to pull the cable out some amount. It wouldn't be that hard to make, you'd basically just need a hunk of metal of the right thickness and a grinder with a cutting wheel to make the slot for the cable.

That's basically what I did. Here it is with the caliper snapped on to the TV cable. Had to cut the length and the slot in the side with a drimmel.


Here's a close up of what it looks like. Sorry it's a bit blurry... (attached to post)