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Frame rust issue....

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    #31
    Frame rust issue....

    +1 on Naval Jelly, that stuff works pretty good.

    Use gloves when handling it though!
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

    2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

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      #32
      naval jelly (pematex rust remover) part#81756....says NJ-1A on bottle,$4.99

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        #33
        Thanks guys...still looking for someone to patch it though...I didn't think it would be this difficult.

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          #34
          it's gonna be alot worse once you start cutting into good metal to weld to.

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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            #35
            Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
            it's gonna be alot worse once you start cutting into good metal to weld to.
            Yea I figured as much. I was just going to use a wire brush to knock out the loose stuff and put something on it to slow it, naval jelly I guess, since I don't know when I'm going to get it fixed.

            Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

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              #36
              navel jelly doesn't slow the rust, it removes it, as it is an acid, and will remove good metal as well if left on there. once the rust is gone, cover the metal with something (primer, por15, paint, oil, etc) to keep the rust from coming back.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                #37
                I'd think a frame swap would be easier. That's some bad rust.
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                  I'd think a frame swap would be easier. That's some bad rust.
                  You're probably right. I just dont have the space or the tools to do it.

                  On a related note, just helped my dad get his 85 out of storage. And with as rough as it is on the outside, low and behold, the frame is solid. At least from what I can see of it. I want to get it up in the air to give it a good looking at. Except it's not exactly road worthy...it's pretty whipped. I also found another 87 with 90k miles and babied it's whole life for $3500. Always garaged and the pictures the guy sent me of the frame looked good also.

                  So I have some decisions. I could start of with another one in great condition, or take 2 cars and combined them. The problem with the later is again, I have no place or tools to do a swap myself, and it would probably cost a small fortune to have a shop do it for me. That's my predicament.

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                    #39
                    I'm currently finishing up a repair on a unibody that was far worse. I'd love to have something like this over what I just fixed.

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                      #40
                      Is there an auto shop/auto body class at a community college near you. You might talk to the instructor to see if it would be your project or one of the class projects for a frame swap.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Mainemantom View Post
                        Is there an auto shop/auto body class at a community college near you. You might talk to the instructor to see if it would be your project or one of the class projects for a frame swap.
                        That's not a bad idea...I'll have to check at the vocational school I went to. Is there a thread on where the body mount locations are all located? I might talk a friend of mine into helping with it, but he's usually pretty busy.

                        Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

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