box rear end options to take 1000hp?

[Mercracer]

I am going to go contrary to much of what has been said so far. Just because individuals squeaked by with factory limo axle shafts does not mean that they should be used with a serious build. They are sized larger for weight. They do not have the tensile strength necessary for a high torque application. Automatic transmissions are more forgiving on axles but with sticky tires they will still fail. 31 spline truck axles break with hard use.
You can not use a junkyard truck 9" 3rd member for the benchmark of strength. Ford has not produced a muscle car with a strong 9" since 1974. Trucks never got the strong 9" carriers. They simply were not necessary so Ford did not spend the money on them. The standard truck carrier has a relatively thin casting around the pinion nose bearing. This is where many of the failures occur. The factory Nodular 9" carriers with their "Daytona" pinion bearing support housings are expensive in the used market. It is actually cheaper to simply purchase a new carrier which is even stronger than the factory nodular carriers and a new pinion support. $3K for a 8.8 using factory axle shafts makes zero sense. It should surprise nobody that purchasing a complete ready to bolt in axle from Currie is going to be crazy expensive. They charge you labor for every bolt they turn. For right around $2K you can have a complete 9" rear end to bolt into your panther and it will outlast any 8.8" you can build. This is all new parts including the housing and allowing for someone local to weld on the appropriate spring and shock mounts. No old junkyard rusted parts needed. This is using a Detroit Locker diff and any gear ratio you wish to use. Looking at the big picture though, you really do not need the added strength a serious 9" offers.
You can build your 8.8 for even less cash than a 9" and it will likely last longer than your car. They have proven themselves on the track with some pretty serious cars. For around $1.5K you should be able to get what you need. Simply use your factory housing with welded tubes. Have the housing ends cut off and a set of 9" ends welded on and replace the bearing caps with billet steel ones. Purchase a set of new axle shafts and you are good to go. This is using the gear and diff of your choice and a girdle support type rear cover.

Will a ford trac lock hold up to 800hp+ in my full weight merc on slicks?

No, don't even think about it. Just run a full Detroit Locker diff since you will not have those pesky C clips to worry about any more. The Detroit Truetrac does not have the "clunking" of the Locker but is not as strong. The helical gear design is pretty slick. There are no clutches or cones to wear out. A call to Eaton would be in order to see if it will hold up to your application.

[merc91]

right on, thats great info and you pretty well described my build plans to a tee... not because I have the experiance but from tons of reading and common sense. Unfortunatly it is going to run me around 3 grand for this 8.8 build but it will be worth every penny with those parts. I have seen allot of good and reviews of them true tracs with finding out that in 2004 is when they changed desisgns and got much much better. I will still give them a call though, with street slick tread and it doesnt see winter but lots of rain in the warmer months so a locker in cuvy roads could put me in a bad spot pretty easily im thinking? Thanks again.

[turbo2256b]

I drove detroit lockers and spools for years as daily drivers with no issues in rain, dry, snow, open track, dirt mud in 9" fords. Before spending 3k on a 8.8 would go with a 9". Even did a 69 Tbird for Ford with a 800 RWT turboed 460 stock detroit locker stock rear turned 10.1 no rear issues and it was hammered on all the time. Heard it was a great toy at Ford in Dearborn all the engineers drove it interns ect.

Ever called Mark Williams and spoke with them? Almost all formes of serious HP/Torq out put racing reguardless of whos manufactures engine and body is used ends up using a 9" rear. My guts are churning up just thinking of what aftermarket stuff I am purching for Creamys 8.8 figuring it will blow again. A built auto isnt all that easy on a drive train or engine either. Creamys trans has hit hard enough its fried the cap holes in the drive shaft flange joint.
Those aluminum bearing caps have to be machined to fit. If you get it wrong and assemble bearings will either be too loose or too tight. Either way will toast the rear end.

[merc91]

I havnt called them actually, I will be tho as im going to be using theyre billet steel bearing caps, and yes I know they need machining in a precision grinder which I can do myself. Im young and only have a few years experiance with this stuff but I eat sleep and breath mechanical stuff and a certified millwright and machinest... but have never layed a finger on a moser axle or detroit locker or billet caps...

The thing is anyone around here or even currie and stange will not do a 9" for my merc. The 1 guy that will is charging a grand just to do the brackets on the housing I supply. And says that 9" limited slip diffs are weaker than the 8.8's weakest link when built up?

I should also add I had lentech leave out the transbrake and my stall is 3500rpm from edge at 800hp but the motor will be a nitrous 408 thats going in so still lots of tq in a heavy car off the line still.

In an 8.8 built up like im figuring... what would be the weak link that would push me to a custom 9" costing me over 4 grand? I cant see driving a spool or locker 10,000 miles a year everyday much fun or good for the car either, altho someday when it sees 1 day a week on the street i would gladly put in a locker.

[merc91]

keep in mind the 3300ish grand price tag includes 4 piston moser disk brakes and $500 labour to assemble the rear and $200 labour to shorten/setup 9" ends with timkin bearings from the best rear guy around. in canada you can add 25% to the cost of everything also from what you can get in the states.

[turbo2256b]

For that much money I would buy a Winters chamionship rear which is in my thoughts when my little boat sells.
Should mention one that is done will go with a 3 or 4 link system using Stock Car stuff.

[Mercracer]

And says that 9" limited slip diffs are weaker than the 8.8's weakest link when built up? .

What exactly does that mean? Nobody has suggested to use a factory Trac-Lok diff.

The thing is anyone around here or even currie and stange will not do a 9" for my merc. The 1 guy that will is charging a grand just to do the brackets on the housing I supply. .

Sure they will. They will supply everything to you except for the brackets. If you are doing a coil-over setup you would be welding custom brackets on the housing anyway. Yo so not need to pay someone $500 to set up your gears with a 9". It is stupid simple.

$200 labour to shorten/setup 9" ends with timkin bearings from the best rear guy around..

He isn't going to be better than a brand new housing from Currie or Strange with the ends already attached.

Even figuring in Canadian pricing, it isn't going to cost you $4K for a 9". Not even close.
The same diff selection available for an 8.8 is available for a 9" with the exception of the Eaton Carbon Fiber Clutch diff.
I am not trying to talk you into a 9", I am just disputing your cost estimations. I believe that you are planning to over-spend on your 8.8 build also. It's your money though.

[turbo2256b]

Try talking to Moser for the HSG and axles. Mark Williams is were i buy the carrier and pinion carrier. Used there aluminum one in my 84 Mustang wit ha 9"

[Mercracer]

Try talking to Moser for the HSG and axles. Mark Williams is were i buy the carrier and pinion carrier. Used there aluminum one in my 84 Mustang wit ha 9"

Moser does not offer Panther brackets either. This is a non-issue with a custom suspension. 8.8s live at 800HP with a trans brake just fine so he will have no problems with his power level and no trans-brake..

[turbo2256b]

Moser is the only one I found that will make custom axles for a 8.8.

[merc91]

What exactly does that mean? Nobody has suggested to use a factory Trac-Lok diff.

means a true trac in a 9" will break before a true trac will break in an 8.8... and so on with each type of limited slip. and it was suggested to go with a stock track-lok up a bit on this page. Strange, aswell as this local builder told me that with the 8.8 vs 9" carrier strength.

$500 to set up the 8.8 not a 9", included is fluid/timkin bearings and seals/labour/+13%tax on that total=$500.

costs canadian for an 8.8 done up and bolted in are;
$200 for good condition 8.8 panther rear
$300 for the ends and shortening/puting them on
$500 for moser custom axles
$600 for true track
$500 labour/bearings/seals/fluid
$200 billet caps and studs
$600 moser 4 piston performance disk brake package
$150 for gears
$150 girdle/cover

I could cobble together junk yard explorer brakes or set up the gears myself and get a chinese bearing kit and skip the billet bearing caps and girdle... and build a $1900 8.8 that blows up when a bearing cap walks or lets go. Or I could do whats listed, and I really dont see any part where I would want to cut out to save a buck.

[merc91]

as for putting in a 9". If I had a strip mustang I used once a week on the street around town, I would. it would be $3000 for a locker equipped moser or strange 9" bracketed and rolling under the car with great brakes... and all custom coil overs and 4 link set up.

I spoke quite a bit with moser, strange, currie and some custom rear end shops. All said it is going to cost allot to get the bracketry on the 9" housing to bolt into my car, and that they wouldnt be the 1's who will do it... That is the issue as well as a 600hp or so breakable limited slip diff (true trac/auburn/clutch type...) in the 9" after all that... when a done up 8.8 will surpass that weakest link... and have the mounting brackets already.

Boxed lower adjustable cop arms and boxed upper arms with poly bushings, coil spring setup with drag bags still, and adjustable shocks are going to be my suspension setup... Will last me another 100k street miles that the car WILL see. With stock suspension other than rear as well as connected front addco sway bars and cut wagon coils on street tires, the car hooked up great and ran in the 12's. And this car isnt going to cross over to the strip only car territory and is always going to be a classy sound insulated, power seated, mint interior/ exterior street driver... perhaps why my goal is such a pain in the ass to really find the right way to go

[turbo2256b]

I think paid US about 90.00 for my billet caps (Probably the most important part). Is that from Strange direct? Do you have to pay import duties along with currency differances? Some of the other prices seem almost double compaired to here except gears and cover. Just woundering.
I have sold some stuff to someone in Canada in the past think he had to pay duties.
Dont realy recomend hard bushings on both ends of the rear control arms. The way the angled arms work is they work against each other to keep the rear end centered and need a bit of give. Woundering how close cowtown cowboy is to you I will try to get in touch with him. Havent talked with him in a while.

[turbo2256b]

He is in Alberta (sp) PMed him but like I said havent talked with him in years. Might take a while to get a responce. He has built a rather serious road race CV.

[turbo2256b]

For 4 and 3 link setups I use parts such as in here http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Circle...first_answer=1