Rear shock lower bolt questions

[evesdropper]

I've been reading in the forums for a week or so and got up the nerve to replace my rear shocks and springs. I had to cut off the upper shock mount as expected. What I didnt expect was that the lower shock bolt would be rusted solid. I had to use a nut splitter on it to get the shock free. The KG5521 shocks came with a different bolt than the stock one and I don't see a way for it to fit the same way. Can I just reuse the stock bolt and put a new nut and lock washer on it? I don't think I damaged the threads too much breaking the nut.

I went with Moog CC819 springs. Reused the isolator on top of the spring. KG5521's on the rear and then KG5458's on the front.

Thanks

Picture of the bolts below.


1989 Crown Victoria LTD LX, 53,000 miles

[1990LTD]

[evesdropper]

Thanks for the reply. That looks just like my bolt. My concern was the original bolt had a nut-split washer-spacer-mount-shock configuration. The new mount appears to have the spacer built on but it is on the opposite side of the mount. I was not sure if that was a problem.

Please correct me if this is wrong but it looks like the new one will be nut-split washer-mount-built on spacer-shock-washer-split washer-nut

Thanks for humoring a noob.

[1987cp]

The style on the right in the first pic is evil - toss it in the scrap metal bin and don't look back. The style on the left you can easily detach and reattach with an impact wrench even after several years, extremely convenient.

[sly]

Please correct me if this is wrong but it looks like the new one will be nut-split washer-mount-built on spacer-shock-washer-split washer-nut

Thanks for humoring a noob.

yup... that's pretty much the way it goes. Just get it tight (my electric impact puts about 90foot pounds on it and it's rock solid) and go.

[evesdropper]

I will give it a shot tonight. Seems strange that the spacer is on the opposite side of the mount with the new bolt.

How the heck do you tourqe the top nut properly? No way to get a socket on it. Do you just tighten it until the rubber just starts to squish a bit?

Thanks

[sly]

pretty much. when the rubber is squished a little... you stop. Socket... yeah... not gonna happen. box end wrench... that's what you'll need.

The spacer on the bolt gives the shock clearance from the axle. It should be the same side of the mount as the original shock mount. The shock slides over the smooth part and the washer, lock washer, and nut hold the shock on. Deep socket... tighten it up... you're good to go.

[1990LTD]

yup a ratcheting box end wrench is the only way you're getting that top rear shock bolt. either that or grabbing it with a regular open ended wrench and spinning the shock itself.

[evesdropper]

The spacer on the bolt gives the shock clearance from the axle. It should be the same side of the mount as the original shock mount. The shock slides over the smooth part and the washer, lock washer, and nut hold the shock on. Deep socket... tighten it up... you're good to go.

If that is the case, then both shocks, (which appear to be the originals) were installed wrong. The spacers were on the opposite side of the axle. The shock was right up against the axle bracket. I will take a picture tonight. Glad I asked!

Thanks!

[zoomie]

yup a ratcheting box end wrench is the only way you're getting that top rear shock bolt. either that or grabbing it with a regular open ended wrench and spinning the shock itself.

Or if you in a hurry and don't mind it cut a hole in the trunk directly above the bolt and cut halfway through with a dremel and snap the bolt off with a socket, hole or not if the piston spins. Extend the shock and get a pair of vicegrips on it nice and tight and away you go. Not everyone likes the hole chop thing but it is effective and fastest way to remove and install rear shocks

[evesdropper]

Got the passenger side installed and done. Driver side coil and shock are out (had to cut it as well). Then I managed to lose the top rubber bushing someplace in the frame. Looking for something flexible to poke around the body now...

On the bright side. It took me a couple hours to get this far on the other side. This side was only 20 min.

[1987cp]

Or if you in a hurry and don't mind it cut a hole in the trunk directly above the bolt and cut halfway through with a dremel and snap the bolt off with a socket, hole or not if the piston spins. Extend the shock and get a pair of vicegrips on it nice and tight and away you go. Not everyone likes the hole chop thing but it is effective and fastest way to remove and install rear shocks

There's also the concept of the adapters like I posted links to. http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-shock-adapter

Converts that awful upper mount to a loop style, so no more aggravation of that magnitude next time you need to change rear shocks.

[evesdropper]

All done. Thanks guys. I like the stance the cc819s gave it.

Started the fronts and you can guess what happened there. Top nuts rusted solid. Impact just spins the rod. I can't get a vicegrip in there and there does not seem to be a way to get the sawzall blade on the top of this one. Both sides are doing the same thing. I sprayed them down with PB Blaster and will see if they are more cooperative in the morning. Any magic tips for those? I was thinking cold chisel on the nuts to split them?

[1987cp]

Front shocks, guys often just stick a deepwell on there and bend it back and forth till it breaks off.

[86VickyLX]

Do yourself a favor, and replace the lower shock bolts with nuts and bolts. The threads in the control arms tend to strip out and the bolts just work themselves loose and then the shock extends.

As for undoing the upper half, If you have access to impact gun, use that. If not, cut it off with sawzall. The stock shocks don't play nice with others.