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**mrltd** · 07-11-2006, 10:32 AM

Axle codes

Axle codes are found on the drivers door info sticker. Under "AX"

2.73 open: 8
2.73 limited slip: M
3.08 open: Y
3.08 limited slip: Z
3.27 open: 5
3.27 limited slip: E
3.55 open: 2
3.55 limited slip: K

**mrltd** · 07-11-2006, 10:37 AM

Polyurethane Front Control Arm Bushings (Thanks Lincolnmania)

'79-'97 Civilian cars use the Energy Suspension 4.3150 kit. Kit has been installed on cars as early as 1985. Should work back to 79. Kit comes with inner sleeves, bushings for the upper and lower arms, and spring isolators.

Lincolnmania's thread on the bushings here

IvanD's install on his Towncar here

**mrltd** · 07-11-2006, 10:38 AM

Lowering/performance Springs (by Blaze86vic)

Original thread here

Well not exactly a kit, but all the parts needed for the site. This is for 91 and back Vics, GMs, and TCs (Note TownCars are a little heavier, so the results may differ)

Keep in mind that the springs in your car now may be sagging.

The spring rate for each spring are the last few digits in the Item#.
The front springs available here! http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Street...rings,166.html
The rear springs available here! http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stock-...rings,168.html

These are both factory style, so no modifications are need to install these. It is a simple replacement with no hidden requirments.

To drop the front about 1" use the 925lb/in front springs.
To drop the rear about 1" use the 175lb/in rear springs.

It's that simple. For your 1" drop. Since these are the lowest they offer, that is the lowest you can go with such simple procedures.

One thing to note, with these shorter springs re-installing them is a sinch! So do-it-yourselfers, have at it. You will not need a spring compressor tool to install any of these springs. You may need one to remove your old ones, but not to re-install the new ones. Also, I did not need to use any tools to remove my rear springs. I jacked the rear in the air, disconnected the shocks, and then just pushed up on the spring with my hands to get them out. I did have PI (16" 175lb/in springs) so those with civilian may need to compress theirs a little more.

**mrltd** · 07-13-2006, 06:59 PM

Suspension parts that will or should work for Panthers

Originally posted by DuceAnAHalf in this
thread.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm going to make a list of the suspension parts for other applications that do or should work for panthers, most of these are for GM's

Springs (front)
( I think the springs are for a Chevelle, but im not positive) Chevelle springs not sure of the years but they measure 12" X 5.5" diameter. These are about 4" shorter than stock grandpa springs but about 1" shorter than PI springs. these will give you a little lower stance but you can get them in much higher rates up to about 1400 in/lbs. to compensate for the drop. These are used in circle track racing, and are available from manufacturers for about $50-$60 each. Sample spring http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Street...rings,166.html

Springs (rear)
Once again Chevelle springs work, these are 14" tall and 7" diameter but they are double pigtail. these are about 2-3" shorter than stock grandpa springs but only about 1" shorter than the newer PI spring. these will give you about less than a inch of drop. These can be had in rates up to 300 in/lbs (stock PI is about 170 in/lbs.) same availability and price as the fronts. Sample Springs http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stock-...rings,168.html

Shocks (front)
67-81 Camaro shocks work up front they are the same as Panther springs, but you can get a wide variety of choices from fully adjustable drag shocks like ADTR sells to adjustable road race shocks. the adjustable road race shocks are as little as $52 each. You can get Bilstein road race shocks for $60.

Bilstein Street stock shocks
Carrera shocks you will need the 2858j for the front
Pro shocks you will need the SS100A the non adjustable is the SS100 for $44.95
QA1 shocks for $80

QA1 Stocker Stars. From NAAKE.com The contact name there is Joel Courage. He worked on the Marauder project called Legal Knevil (Thanks to BK Grand Marquis)

Compression and Rebound simultaneous adjustments
TC1958P --- Stud T-bar Front $138.95
TC2501P --- Stud Eyelet Rear $138.95

Compression and Rebound independent adjustments
DTC-1958-P $329
DTC-2501-P $329

Shocks (rear)
the rears are shown on some of the pages above but they shocks for a Panther are the same as used on the 67-69 camaro and the 82-88 camaro

I make no guarantees that any of this will work for your car. All the Ford applications only go up to 88 i dont know if any thing should be different. I have 97 PI springs in the rear of my 85, and the front springs are now 12" X 5.5" I used the Carreras on the front of my 85 and they work fine.

*EDIT* more shocks Tokico shocks from Stillen. since they are 92-02 they should work for the 79-91 also.

Crown Victoria
1992-02
Front
HE3479
Rear
HE3480

404 Not Found

http://www.stillen.com/product_detai...?sku=TOKHE3479

STILLEN Performance Exhaust, Intakes, Superchargers and Vehicle Styling products under leading brands STILLEN, Street Scene, TruPower Cold Air Intakes and Stillen Cat Back Exhaust. Performance Aftermarket Products for Trucks, Performance Cars, Luxury Cars, Sports Cars and Off-Road.

*ADDED INFO*
Tokico brand HP series shocks:
65-91 Crown Victoria
Front: HE3667
Rear: HE3480
Tokico application chart

Alright from the Koni catalog:

Front
Camaro 67-69 80-1914
Camaro 70-81 8040-1017

I think the 67-69 is the best bet, but not sure.

Rear
Camaro 67-69 80-1915

Not sure on these, your best bet would be find a local F-body guy and see if the shocks will swap

**mrltd** · 07-14-2006, 01:03 AM

Suspension Parts Sources (By DuceAnAHalf & mrltd)

Original thread here

Since our cars can use a variety of circle track parts I thought I'd make a list of some retailers that sell parts. Feel free to add any others you know off.

www.speedwaymotors.com I have used them several times, not only do they have suspension parts but they have a selection of Ford engine parts also, at a good price. Bad part is they charge actual shipping cost. Not bad for ordering a few small things but big and/or heavy things can get expensive.

http://www.colemanracing.com/ have not dealt with them but i hear good things. Have good prices also

www.summitracing.com Have a small selection of parts. Stuff like wheels might be a better price through them due to cost of shipping.

www.stockcarproducts.com I (mrltd) have bought a few items from them and have been very pleased with the products and customer service.

www.a1racing.com Lots of stuff fast shipping. ordered on monday we received on thursday. Located in Warminster PA, so shipping should be really quick for the PA/MD guys.

**mrltd** · 10-11-2006, 05:02 PM

Moog/TRW* Replacment spring info

*Autozones duralast springs follow the same basic part numbers as the Moog TRW, but the prefix is different. Example: moog/trw CC819 = duralast RCS819V

Rear Springs
8795: Wagon straight rate.
8649: Sedan Straight rate.
CC819: Wagon Cargo Coil (variable)
CC817: Sedan Cargo Coil (variable)

---------------------------------------------------------------

Product Specs
Part Number 8795
Inside Diameter 5.000
End Type 1 Pigtail
End Type 2 Pigtail
Bar Diameter 0.625
Install Height 12.69
Load in Pounds 790.0
Spring Rate 182.0
Free Height 17.04
Rear Coil Springs

Part Number: 8795 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Specs
Part Number 8649
Inside Diameter 5.050
End Type 1 Pigtail
End Type 2 Pigtail
Bar Diameter 0.531
Install Height 11.63
Load in Pounds 630.0
Spring Rate 107.0
Free Height 17.27
Rear Coil Springs

Part Number: 8649 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Specs
Part Number CC819
Inside Diameter 5.050
End Type 1 Pigtail
End Type 2 Pigtail
Bar Diameter 0.656
Install Height 12.69
Load in Pounds 780.0
Spring Rate 200.0
Free Height 16.73
Rear Variable Rate Springs

Part Number: CC819 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Product Specs
Part Number CC817
Inside Diameter 5.050
End Type 1 Pigtail
End Type 2 Pigtail
Bar Diameter 0.625
Install Height 11.63
Load in Pounds 711.0
Spring Rate 165.0
Free Height 15.94
Rear Variable Rate Springs

Part Number: CC817 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
FRONT SPRINGS

8650: Wagon Front
8652: Sedan Front HD
8656: Sedan Standard

Product Specs
Part Number 8650
Inside Diameter 4.039
End Type 1 Square
End Type 2 Tangential
Bar Diameter 0.687
Install Height 11.50
Load in Pounds 1720.0
Spring Rate 432.0
Free Height 15.51
Front Coil Springs

Part Number: 8650 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Product Specs
Part Number 8656
Inside Diameter 4.040
End Type 1 Square
End Type 2 Tangential
Bar Diameter 0.671
Install Height 11.50
Load in Pounds 1870.0
Spring Rate 374.0
Free Height 16.50
Front Coil Springs

Part Number: 8656 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Product Specs
Part Number 8652
Inside Diameter 4.039
End Type 1 Square
End Type 2 Tangential
Bar Diameter 0.687
Install Height 11.50
Load in Pounds 1825.0
Spring Rate 433.0
Free Height 15.62
Coil Springs, Front

Part Number: 8652 Manufacturer: MOOG Southfield, MI 248-354-7700
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

**mrltd** · 01-15-2007, 05:02 PM

Shock info, lengths compressed and extended of monroe shocks for various applications.

404

http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf

The online catalog is here

Monroe | Performance Shocks & Struts

http://www.monroe.com/

An industry leader in ride control components, Monroe shocks and struts are backed by premium materials and engineering for quality products you can count on.

The lengths for box panther apps is 12.250 compressed and 20.00 extended, which is the same compressed length as most fox body cars, an close to the same extended length (20.125)

**Blaze86Vic** · 03-14-2007, 08:27 PM

Full thread here: http://grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=15148

So you are tired of spinning one wheel every time you hit the gas and are considering buying a posi differential. Well I put this together to help you decide and to show you what is available. This is provided as a summary so that you don't have to become and expert on everything to do with differentials, but still make an informed decision.

First you should know what you are starting with, and open differential. These differentials use a system called spider gears to allow power to travel to each wheel, but also lets one wheel freely spin at a different rate than the other. This enable smooth operation in a turn, since the inside wheel will need to spin slower than the outside.

Here is an image of an open differential.

Thumbnail

There are three basic types of posi differentials. Limited slip, lockers, and spool. How do they differ?

Limited slip allows for some difference in wheel RPM between the two wheels.

Lockers do not allow any difference in wheel RPM until they are disengaged or overpowered.

Spool is solid locked and will not allow any difference in wheel RPM until something breaks (whether that be traction or steel).

Limited slips
There are two basic methods of getting limited slip.

The most common method is most commonly referred to as simply limited slip, but more correct is called a Clutch Based Limited Slip Differential. These use a spring loaded clutch between the two wheels that holds the wheel together until the clutches are overpowered.

Here is an image of a clutch based limited slip, there many variations in how the clutches a placed.

Thumbnail

The other is called a Torque Biasing Differential (also referred to as Torsional, or Torsen), and uses different types of gears to distribute force to each wheel properly, but still allows for a difference in wheel RPM on each side. There are also some torsional differentials that also use a clutch system in conjunction with the torsional effect. Only aggressive road course and autocross driving would effectively be able to utilize the benefits of this type of diff.

Here is an image of a torsional differential, though there are several different versions, they all consist of gears similar to this.

Thumbnail

Lockers and Spool the same?
Spool sometimes referred to as Full Spool, is simply a solid piece of metal that holds the wheels together. Lockers or Selectable Lockers are diffs that use some kind of interlocking surface to hold the wheels together, but the interlock can be undone as well. Basically they can work in two modes, either spooled or open.

Here is an image of a locker differential, the image is kind of complicated, but that is how they are. Though the exact design can very greatly.

Thumbnail

Here is an image of a spool diff, pretty simple, solid chuck-o metal.

Thumbnail

So what does this mean to me?
As an example of the real life difference between the main types, suppose one wheel goes off in the gravel as you are accelerating around a road block while running from the entire police force just for fun.

Torsional
In the case of a torsion differential it balances power to each wheel to maintain the same RPM at each wheel. So as the right wheel goes off into the gravel, the differential will sense the right wheel beginning to spin which will result in a reduction of power to that wheel, this power is then transferred, or added to the left wheel. So let's say that you put down 300 ft*lbs of torque. So you put down 150tf*lbs to each wheel. With both wheels on pavement they can handle 500 ft*lbs before spinning. So one wheel can only handle 250ft*lbs be it self. But a wheel in gravel can only handle 75ft*lbs. As you put one wheel in the pavement, the diff transfers the excess 75ft*lbs to the other wheel. Now you are putting down 225ft*lbs on the left wheel, and 75ft*lbs on the right wheel. That means you are still at full acceleration with no wheel spin. But because the torsion differential does not try to hold the wheels together, but instead only balances the power, this means that in a turn the inside wheel is free to rotate slower than the outside as it is required to do, and without any negative effects from the differential.

Spool and Locker
In the case of a full spool, both wheels are forced to spin together no matter what. So with one wheel in gravel you get the same result as the torsion differential. However, in a turn the wheels are not able to spin independently. So the result is one of two things, either the wheels spin as a result of the tires losing grip because of a twisting moment generated in the axle, or the axle breaks. This twist in the axle results in force at each wheel in opposite directions, it keeps building until one wheel slips and relieves the stress. A locker works just the same as a spool, but is designed to become an open diff before any kind of metal breaks, or in the case of a selectable locker, only when you decide to.

Clutch Based
In the case of the clutch based diff there is a % difference in traction between the wheels in which the wheels will still spin at the same rate. In most cases this percentage on street or mild track use differentials is less than 40%. This means that if the traction of the right wheel is less than 40% different from the traction of the left wheel, they will still keep spinning the same RPMs. However, in the case of one wheel on gravel and the other on pavement, the difference is significantly greater than 40%. In this case the clutches reach their limit and one wheel begins to spin, this spinning results in relatively all your power going to forcing a wheel to spin, and not accelerating. However in the case of a turn, this % difference allows the wheels to spin independently with only some interference. This interference is equal to that % difference. So you now see that as you increase the strength of the diff (ie increase the % difference) you become more and more like a locked differential. Something else to note, is that the clutches can, and do, eventually wear out. This means that periodically (not that often) you do have to service them with new clutches. The other two only wear out if you manage to wear a gear down to nothing.

So why not use a Torsion diff on everything?
As I am sure you have noticed torsion diffs seem to have the market cornered. It has all the benefits of spool without the consequences in a turn, and outperforms clutch based limited slips in turns as well. So why do people not chose the torsion differentials all the time? Well for the most part, price. A conventional clutch based limited slip is less than half the price. The cheapest torsion diff is over $400 for just the part, not installation. Spooled diffs are good for people that have full time off-road vehicles or need to handle massive HP numbers (ie. full time dragsters). Off roaders like it because if you have one wheel in the air, you still get 100% power to the wheel on the ground, pretty much a must have for rock crawlers. In this case a torsion diff would not work as good, as it depends on that wheel being able to handle at least some force. A locker is nice for both these folks as you get the advantages of the spool, but can still drive it on pavement with some inconveniences in turns like tire chirping, clicking noise, and chatter. Unless it is a selectable locker which performs like an open diff when off, so you won’t get any streetable difference at all.

So now you know. Informed decisions make good decisions.

If you are interested in more information there is an abundance of it available through simple Google searches, now that you are familiar with some of the terminology used. But the link below is a good little read.

Toyota OffRoad.com article

This write-up is property of GrandMarq.net and should not be duplicated without permission.

**mrltd** · 04-23-2007, 02:10 PM

Body Mount Part Numbers and Info.

Bodymounts. Obsolete from Ford. 16 Total.

ES 9.4102 universal mounts are close and require longer bolts M10 x80mm. 1.5mm thread pitch. Also required a spacer/washer to fit the frame tightly. This is not a straightforward remove and replace. The core support bushings will require reshimming to sit correctly.

Spacer specs: 1.495OD, 1.252ID, 11 gauge (0.116") thick round spacer.

Here's a diagram of the locations

**mrltd** · 04-23-2007, 04:49 PM

BOX PI Rear Lower Control Arms

Originally posted by 89Mercury HERE

The Police Sedan rear control arms are different than regular control arms. I used a white line to highlight the area.

The rear control arms I have on my 89 Grand Marquis are .08 thick (left pic), and the ones I bought today are .10 thick (right pic). So the police rear control arms are made out of 12 gauge steel and the non-police rear control arms are made out of 14 gauge steel if the chart I googled is right.

Thickness (Inches)
Gauge Num.---Nominal---Tolerance Range
12 gauge------.1046------.1106 to .0986
14 gauge------.0747------.0797 to .0697

View B, this picture is why I went back to the junkyard and I'm glad it did.

View C, What is Handling RPO?---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------?

__________________

**mrltd** · 12-07-2007, 09:49 PM

Dead link

**mrltd** · 08-21-2008, 05:08 PM

Big Brake Swap info, Compiled and organized by 85CrownHPP (pete)

Big Brakes

http://www.grandmarq.net/85crownLX/pages/Big_Brakes.html

Parts list:

(list courtesy of Gadget)

lower control arm: original, or any 79-2002
lower ball joint: 96-02
spindle: 96-02
hub bearing: 98-02
caliper bracket: 98-02
caliper: 98-02
rotor: 98-02
brake hose: 98-02 with ABS
upper ball joint: your option, 2 different types from 92-95, and another from 96-02. They both work.
upper control arm: easiest, 92-95.

Parts list from Lincolnmaina:

96-02 spindles
98-02 hub bearings
96-02 lower ball joints
92-94 upper control arms
92-94 upper ball joints
i leave 95 out if it cause that was the changeover yr..... some 95's will have the spindle you need..... midyear they changed the suspension
98-02 caliper brackets
98-02 calipers
98-02 rotors
98-02 brake hoses
es bushing kit get for the 92-97 cars yes the listing is incorrect...... there's 2 sets police and non police it really doesn't matter which upper arms u get just be sure to get the kit for the right application..... don't waste your time with new rubber bushings...... i did a bunch of mine and gadgets bushings in 04/05 and they are shot...... it's 68 bucks iirc for the energy suspension kit....... 8 replacement rubber bushings for the front end is over 100 bucks

small but important:
standard to metric brake line adapters (the newer brake hoses are a metric thread) 3/16" size I believe.

NEW self-locking nuts ( 5/8" - 18) for the upper control arms, unless you want to re-tigten them regularly.

16" WHEELS OR LARGER are need to clear these brakes.

Harvesting Tips:

From the donor car you get the upper control arm from, the arm is the only thing you need, and no ball joint (the ball joint part of the ball joint assembly) separation is necessary. Unbolt the upper arm from the frame, un-do the nuts holding the upper ball joint to the upper arm (support the lower arm so it does not suddenly drop) and carry off your upper arm. Save the nuts and the upper ball joint adjustment things (the larger "nuts" under the ones you just removed)

Links to threads containing big brake install details:

Big Brake discussion 1

Big Brake discussion 2

Big Brake discussion 3

Misc. info:

Either type of tie rods may be used, just be sure that all 4 and the sleeves match in application, since they switched to metric threads around 96...

Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings are available - outer sleeves must be re-used with the kit - civilian cars use: Energy Suspension 4.3150
link to bushing kits in the Energy Suspension online store

link to other misc. front spring & shock info

burning out the bushings

DONT BURN OUT YOUR BUSHINGS NEAR A LEAKY PROPANE TANK!!!

Pics:

(this pic shows an aftermarket brake hose installed)

**mrltd** · 09-27-2010, 06:11 PM

Stolen from a CVN post...Frame dimensions of aero's and the 2 gens of whales.

Attached Files

**sly** · 10-25-2014, 06:04 PM

Performance shocks...
Stats comparison of the KYB shocks...

KYB	Gas-A-Just KG5521	MonoMax 565010	Gas-A-Just KG5522
Extended Length (in)	20.08	21.54	21.3
Compressed Length (in)	12.32	13.58	13.03
Stroke (in)	7.76	7.95	8.27
Cover	Yes	Yes	Yes
Rebound Stop	No	Yes	No
Bump Stop	No	No	No
Upper Mount	S1	S1	S1
Lower Mount	E1	E2(12x38)	E1

to mount the MonoMax on a panther, the center shell must be removed on the lower end.

Option 1: press out the inner shell:
The "easy" way with a vice is to heat the inner shell up ONLY. Do not apply any heat to the outer shell or the shock body as this could cause severe issues and possible death from the cylinder exploding. After heating to a nice small smoke... press out the inner shell using your preferred method. The heat is used to help release the shell from the rubber. If you have a shop press and a fitting that can "cut" away at the inner shell's outer diameter, that would be much easier.

Option 2: reuse the lower bushings from the old shock
Press the rubber out of both the old shock and the new one and press the old rubber into the new shock.

If you used option 1, you will need to use one of the old top rubber bushings to space between the lower washer and the shock. The shock body will be close to the mount/axle, but in no danger of contact, but there will be some space between the shock and the washer. A little petroleum jelly works wonders in pressing the shock and old top rubber shock bushing on.

If using option 2, just bolt up as normal.

Announcement

Suspension/Brakes FAQ. Please Read First!

Suspension/Brakes FAQ. Please Read First!

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