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Few questions about balljoints & steering

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    Few questions about balljoints & steering

    I was wondering what component is responsible for the play in the steering wheel (I can move the wheel either direction one or two inch's without affecting the steering at all. In other words its not sensitive enough). I'm convinced its either the ball joints or tie rods. I have fairly new motorcraft ball joints, but could it be that they are bad quality?

    My other question is how much oil are you supposed to inject into the ball joints/tie rod ends exactly? I got Moog tie rod ends and I'm also wondering if they need oil injected into them at all.

    I'm planning to replace my lower control arm bushings, shocks and inner/outer tie rod ends tomorrow. I've read up as best as I can on other threads. Any advice and fore warnings are appreciated!

    ~Stealthlead
    1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

    #2
    keep putting grease in them till it comes out
    89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

    Comment


      #3
      It is not possible for ball joints to effect your steering in that manner. There are several possibilities including rag joint/shaft knuckle, steering box, tie rod, drag link, pitman arm, etc... Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth and you lay under the car to see where the play is.

      Comment


        #4
        Yea, I was going to try that out tomorrow. At one point while I was driver one of my lower ball joints' cotter pin somehow snapped off and well, my car almost went down for the count. I'm suspecting the sudden shift in weight on the suspension could have bent or distorted a component. I'll continue to update my progress. On a side note, I didn't realize rockauto had such good prices.. I totally got ripped off by O'reily. Returns p10x
        1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

        Comment


          #5
          Ok this is what I have so far:

          MOOG Part # K8283
          Frt Strg; Problem Solver (Idler arm)

          MOOG Part # ES3494
          Frt Strg; Inner (Tie rod x2)

          MOOG Part # ES3495
          Frt Strg; Outer (Tie rod x2)

          MOOG Part # K8290
          Frt Strg (pitman arm)

          MOOG Part # ES2058S Adjusting Sleeve
          Frt Strg x2 (My sleeves are horribly corroded)

          KYB Part # KG4515 Gas-A-Just
          (Exc. Police Car & Taxi); Front x2

          MEVOTECH Part # MK80091 {#K80091}
          W/ 22MM (7/8") BAR; TO FRAME; Front (Front sway bar bushings)

          Any suggestions? Anything I'm missing out? I was thinking about new coil springs too.. if so should I just go with standard rate? I want my steering to be flawless
          Last edited by Stealthlead; 06-25-2011, 03:44 AM.
          1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

          Comment


            #6
            looks good to me...almost exactly what my front end has, but i used cop shocks and ford sway bar bushings.


            you could go for K6629 as well. sway bar end link kits. buy 2x
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              there are also upper and lower control arm bushings that warrant at least an inspection. Don't forget to check the steering box itself for play. Its fairly straightforward. Turn the steering shaft while watching the pitman arm. If you can rotate the steering shaft a noticeable amount before the pitman arm starts to move, the box is probably sloppy.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Also, make sure that everything is taking grease. If a component no longer takes grease, it won't belong until it's dead.

                Comment


                  #9
                  My upper control arm bushings as well as ball joints were replaced about 6 months ago.. I know the bushings are still good, I'm going to replace the joints as well and lube them up properly this time. And thanks for reminding me, I forgot to add lower control arm bushings!

                  I went out and took a look today. My pitman arm is VERY dirty, as well as my tie rods and idler arm (leaked out all their oil). I was paying close attention to how the pitman arm is moving and I believe I may have a faulty steering box, as with the first few inch's of rotation at the steering wheel either way, there is almost no effect on the pitman arm. However, its just by a tiny bit of tolerance.. enough to piss me off and unhappy with the steering. I think it might be a combination of a very old pitman arm, tie rod ends, and perhaps a bad steering box.

                  In the event my steering box is bad, is it possible to rebuild it or do I need to get another one?
                  1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Check for play in your steering shaft before tearing into your box. Normally the seals go in a box long before anything wears out. Bearings should wear out before your "gears" go in your box. A steering box is pretty simple but re-installing the piston with new teflon rings without damaging them can be a challenge. Now would be the time to upgrade to a newer P71 box if yours does end up being bad.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Is it easy to replace the seals on the steering box?
                      1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        not really, i usually just order a reman steering box, more cost effective

                        what yr is the car? may be the steering shaft, 98-02's had big problems

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          1991 MGM LS sedan. It used to be fine until the ball joint job, after that it was a small spiral to where it is today. In fact, I think perhaps it could have been damaged when one of my lower ball joints fell out while i was driving... wasn't a good day.
                          1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Stealthlead View Post
                            1991 MGM LS sedan. It used to be fine until the ball joint job, after that it was a small spiral to where it is today. In fact, I think perhaps it could have been damaged when one of my lower ball joints fell out while i was driving... wasn't a good day.
                            Um yeah... that does tend to fuck shit up.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              could have torn the rubber coupler disc fighting the wheel when the ball joint let go
                              pop the plastic covers from around the steering shaft by the steering box, have an assistant slowly turn the wheel while you check for play.

                              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                              Comment

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