Rebuilding Front End

[packman]

Since I cut my teeth on the C-20 front end rebuild, I'm gonna tackle the CV front end next. So far I sized the bolts and nuts to the different components. Both the UCA and LCA bolts seem to be 21mm on my mom's '86 CV. The upper balljoint castle nut is 7/8" (it fits better than the 21mm) and the lower balljoint is 24mm. I have yet to size the inner and outer tie rod nuts.

My plan is to grab the LCAs, spindles, and UCAs off of the '90 MGM that I began stripping last year (if it's still there). At first I was thinking that I may not need to bring power tools, but upon further thought I may have to. I'm thinking that I might cut the springs off of the donor vehicle before I separate both control arms from the spindle. Is that a good idea or bad idea; or not the proper thing to do in a JY? Also, the UCA bolts; are they held in place by a nut on the other side? Only reason I ask is because I can't see the other end of the UCA bolts because they poke into the frame. I want to have everything I need when I go to the JY. I think that's all for now; I'll post more ??? if I can think again. Thanks guys



Packman

[87gtVIC]

Upper arms shafts do get secured by a nut. It has a square metal tab welded to the nut so it is easier to stay in place and has more surface/contact area. No need to hold it though. Just worry about the bolt head you see on the shafts.

[packman]

Thanks Dave Cool, at least that's one less thing to worry about at the JY. Yeah, I might start charging the spare batteries (out of the various junked vehicles) tomorrow. I'll bring them to the JY along with a 3000W inverter to run my A/C tools. I'll Sawz-All or grind the front springs so I don't have to use my spring compressor. I guess I'll pay for the springs or sumtin. I have a 1000# capacity cart to bring my tools, hydr. jack, jackstands, and batteries for the tear down. Hopefully I will only have to make one trip to the JY for this. Perhaps I'll snag the rear trailing arms as well if I'm feeling spry.

Also, should I get the balljoint kit from PST who doesn't use Moog or should I get them separate (Moog) from a local parts store? I will also get the tie rod kit from PST as well.


Packman

[gadget73]

if you're going to the trouble of changing the upper arms, I'd upgrade the brakes. If retaining 15" wheels is a concern, 95-97 front brake assemblies work, and are somewhat of an improvement over the stock box stuff. Rotors aren't much bigger, nor are the calipers, but it gets rid of that stamped steel upper arm and the rivet-in ball joint thats a pain in the ass to replace. It also makes upgrading to the 98+ stuff down the road pretty easy since the proper spindle is already there.


I would not advise cutting the springs. When that coil is cut through, it will release a lot of energy. Disconnecting the spindle and slowly lowering the control arm with a jack will safely unload the suspension. No compressor needed to get the springs out. Its only required to put them back in.

[packman]

Nah, can't be doing the big brake conversion until I wear out the winter tires I got on the stock turbines. Had I done the research years ago (before I joined GMN), I woulda got the PI wheels and stuck winter tires on them.

Drilling out the upper balljoint rivets ain't that bad; even on teh C-20, which has much heavier components. Hmmm.......so I don't need a compressor to get the stock springs out. Hopefully lowering the LCA slowly will prevent any nasty surprises. As far as getting the springs back in; I got the Speedway springs in my mom's CV. Since they're shorter than the stock springs, do I have to use a compressor to get them in? Thanks Gadget73


P.S. Give me a couple hours to respond, I gotta run some errands.

Packman

[packman]

Okay, I be ordering the Energy Suspension Front Control Arm bushing kit for '92-'97 CV's. Can't wait to start working on this stuff again.



Packman

[packman]

Couple questions, if anybody's reading this. Dust shields: do we need them? I f'd one of them up getting the spindle off. LCA balljoints: are these the hammer-in/out style? I had a hell of time trying to get one out and it didn't budge. I'll try again when my finger is fully healed and I can get a full grip of the hammer.



Packman

[sly]

press in/out... I guess a hammer and socket would work, but the press would be better. Dust shields? My Mark is missing one... no issues with it... so meh.

[gadget73]

dust shields aren't critical. Kinda nice to have, but its not that important.

and yes, you press the ball joint in and out. Do not hammer it out. You'll bend the control arm.

[packman]

I hope I didn't bend it; though I don't think I had the strength w/o my index finger. Damn; why does Ford have to do it the expensive way? Do I have to press in the new lower balljoints as well?



Packman

[86VickyLX]

I hope I didn't bend it; though I don't think I had the strength w/o my index finger. Damn; why does Ford have to do it the expensive way? Do I have to press in the new lower balljoints as well?



Packman

The lower ones are the ones you're pressing in/out. I've hammered them out. Pressed them in. Make sure you clean the surfaces and lub them when you go to press it back together. Rent the balljoint press from autozone. If you have an impact gun it will go so much faster

[packman]

Thanks 86VickyLX!!! I might just look into renting one of those; hopefully the local stores will have them.



Packman

[1987cp]

The lower ones are the ones you're pressing in/out. I've hammered them out. Pressed them in. Make sure you clean the surfaces and lub them when you go to press it back together. Rent the balljoint press from autozone. If you have an impact gun it will go so much faster

What he said. Hammering balljoints sucks, and supposedly can damage the control arms. I just used a ratched with the balljoint press I rented, but it still made the job incredibly easy - especially compared the endless hammering from the first time I did lower balljoints.

Free tool rental at AutoZone FTW!

[packman]

I done messed up. I was having a hard time drilling out a couple of the balljoint rivets in the upper control arm. So I decided to turn the UCA upside down and knock the other rivet head off. I ended up chamfering one of the UCA holes badly and drilled through the other. I also noticed that there isn't much metal left in the UCA bushing sleeves. The other arms are good, but the driver's side is shot. Can I just get both UCA's from another CV or MGM of another year and use them with the LCA's that I currently got?



Packman

[packman]

Oh yeah, one more question and I'm done for the night. Do I have to get the stock bushings in order to get the metal sleeves? Hopefully the next pair of UCA's have good sleeves.



Packman