Rear Axle Studs

[packman]

I'm thinking that I might install stronger wheel studs since I got the axles sitting in a corner in the basement. Good idea, bad idea?



Packman

[86VickyLX]

For what reason? There's nothing wrong with the stock studs. Only reason I'd contemplate changing them is if the threads were fucked, or if they were broken.

[mrltd]

No real reason to, unless they are damaged.

[packman]

No real reason. Some of the studs on the replacement axles are rusted; nothing that can't be cleaned up, but I figured since the axles are out, I would change the studs for something stronger and cleaner (ARP?).



Packman

[P72Ford]

If you are going to drag race in a certain class, there are rules about axle studs, and open head lug nuts. I believe the axle stud has to protrude through the open end nut by a certain length.

[Mustang Eddie]

If you are going to drag race in a certain class, there are rules about axle studs, and open head lug nuts. I believe the axle stud has to protrude through the open end nut by a certain length.

Nate is right.If you race at an NHRA track the stud must protrude the width of the stud through the open nut which is 1/2" on almost all Fords with factory studs.

[packman]

Hmmmm........1/2". I should measure the stud protrusion next time I take the rear wheels off. I managed to get one of the rustier studs off of the axle. It measures 2" in length. The shoulder is approximately 9/16" and the knurled part is a little more than that. Everybody seems to have decimal measurements and my calipers measure in fractions (like a tape measure). I'll see what this translates to and see what the people (ARP) have in terms of wheel studs.



Packman

[packman]

One of my father's friends measured the knurled part of the wheel stud with a dial caliper. He measured .611" on the three studs that I pounded off of the axle. I'm going to place an order with JEGS for part# 555-65111; which are 1/2"-20x3" press-in studs for a '79-'03 Mustang w/ a 8.8 rear. We'll see how this works out.



Packman

[87gtVIC]

You can take a run to pepboys. They actually carry wheel studs that are longer than stock.

[Mustang Eddie]

One of my father's friends measured the knurled part of the wheel stud with a dial caliper. He measured .611" on the three studs that I pounded off of the axle. I'm going to place an order with JEGS for part# 555-65111; which are 1/2"-20x3" press-in studs for a '79-'03 Mustang w/ a 8.8 rear. We'll see how this works out.



Packman

Those will work fine they have the same knurl size which is listed as .612 IIRC.

[packman]

I would like to go to Pep Boys or any store like that, but around here people don't really know what you're asking for. When I was looking for a slide hammer, I had to explain to most people what it is and what it's used for. So this is why I go the mail order route. It's easier and less frustrating for me.

Last night while cleaning the basement, I cleaned the threads of the crustier studs. They could be reused, but if I really needed studs, I would order the stock studs from one of the local parts stores or take the good studs off of the current axle in the CV. I forgot to ask what grade the JEGS wheel studs were. I'll find out when I get them.



Packman

[packman]

The JEGS wheel studs that I got are grade 8. I don't know what grade the stock Ford studs are; they just have an "F" on the head of the stud. I installed 8 studs today. I got tired and wasn't striking the hammer straight, so I quit while I was ahead. During this process, the GF called, and when I turned around to talk, the axle fell over and landed on one of the studs. The threads were pretty banged up, so I ordered another package of studs. At $11.99, I can afford to have extra studs. Don't be like me and be careful with your axles if you end up doing this kind of work.

At first, I had the axle held in a vice to pound in the first two studs. After that, I ran out of space (I couldn't rotate the axle w/o the studs hitting something) and had to find another way of hammering the studs onto the axle. I managed to find a small steel cylinder that was 3" in diameter and 3" in height (off the ground). I used this cylinder as an anvil. I centered the axle on the cylinder so that there was plenty of clearance for each stud (so they didn't rub or hit the cylinder); and the studs were 1/2" off of the ground. This also gave me enough downward force to hit the studs right. Most of you probably don't have access to small scraps of metal like that, so perhaps a small block of wood, cut to the right height will work if you use this method. I'm clearly not the smartest person around, so I'm fairly certain you guys can figure out a better method of installing wheel studs. I will get pics when I finish the roll for the front end project.



Packman