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Who makes a GOOD idler arm?

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    Who makes a GOOD idler arm?

    I'm tired of changing these damn things. Even the moog ones only last about a month before they get some slop in them. Lifetime warranty is nice but it should last more than 5k miles.
    1989 Grand Marquis LS
    flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

    #2
    I was thinking about replacing just the bushing on my OE one. Since you've already changed the arm out... that option is gone. Personally, I've never had any issues with the store brand stuff... so if Moog is crapping out on you... there may be some binding going on in the tie rods to be putting that much stress on the idler arm.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      Most of it is my big ass tires. But still someone should make a better one.
      1989 Grand Marquis LS
      flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

      Comment


        #4
        from looking at my car (and remembering what was on the 85 pontiac b-body I had) I'd say check out a Humvee idler arm. If you can find one to compare with that is. Otherwise check out truck idler arms and see if you can find one with the same bolt pattern and arm length/end angle. It looks like the GM and Ford arms are compatible, just mounted on opposite sides of the center link.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #5
          i got a pep boys cheapie on my towny.......installed it in 2002......still tight.......back then they were like 9 bucks

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

          Comment


            #6
            Inspect the centerlink. Make sure that it is not bent or damaged. If the center link is putting the idler arm at a weird angle, it will wear out fairly quickly. Has the car been in any accidents, have you run over anything in the front? All stuff to look out for. How long does an idler arm last you?

            Comment


              #7
              Would getting measurements on the replacement bushing, and then sourcing a poly part be an option?
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                I did hit a rut hard enough to bend a tie rod end a bit. A poly bushing may be a solution. Not sure. As far as lasting, they get some play almost instantly but takes a few months before it gets bad enough to change. 10-15k miles maybe?
                1989 Grand Marquis LS
                flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

                Comment


                  #9
                  Try Spicer Chassis group. They are now a division of Dana/Raybestos under the parent, Affinia, Inc. I started using them on my GM B-body, as they also are hard on idler arms and i grew tired of the Moog Problem Solver (their high end brand) crapping out. Energy Suspensions may also make something for the Boxes. They are pure polyurethane bushings, but, be prepared for squeaking with them. Polyurethane does not 'lubricate' as easily as rubber.
                  95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
                  96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
                  77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
                  98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
                  90 Grand Marquis, stock

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    Would getting measurements on the replacement bushing, and then sourcing a poly part be an option?
                    Poly bushings can be reduced in OD by sandpapering on a wood lathe. Just in case you try this route and can't find one that's exactly right.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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