What should I paint the rear axle with before installing it in the car? I'll take care of the surface rust first obviously, and I'd like to protect it from rusting again.
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- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock -
semigloss black Rustoleum or any other oil-based paint equivalent. Chassis black also works, but its usually more expensive, and thinned with the idea that its going to be sprayed on. Quarts of oil paint are thick for brush painting.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers -
you should sandblast it cause if theres any missed or hard to reach rust spots it will rust agian then get it powder coated #1 choice or epoxy prime it then you could paint it.Comment
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+1 for plain RustOleum or similar in your favorite color and sheen, unless you can swing one of the other options. I've had so many annoyances with other brands of cheap utility paint ....
I remember Eastwood demonstrating a crazy encapsulator type epoxy primer on My Classic Car that really seemed like just the thing to restore a frame whose surface is in imperfect condition. For my purposes and limited tooling, I flap-wheeled and wire-wheeled everything I could reach and just applied RustOleum without primer.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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I think you should also address any rust while you remove your rear axle/control arms. Prevent the Canadian death.
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It's part of the plan! I'm going to kill that rust.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
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Time for a Thain treatment?Comment
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I would love to do that but that much bodywork sounds like mucho $$$.
I'm doing it in sections starting with the ass of the car and the undercarriage (frame floor pans etc) and working my way forward as time and money permits. More progress will be made once it's not my daily driver anymore and I am able to have it laid up for days at a time.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
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I want to do this on my car. I know the deal of work that is involved. Including the price of materials. I'll probably combine this with whenever I do bodymounts.Originally posted by 1990LTD View PostComment
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