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    Door Latches

    Anyone know how to shore up the door latches once the plastic parts break off?

    All four of mine have broken off and now the doors jiggle when driving.
    Thank you,
    Ringting

    #2
    do you mean the plastic bushing around the circular piece on the doorframe that the door latches to? that's called a Door Striker and you can replace it (or the bushing? I forget if you get the whole thing) with one Torx bolt.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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      #3
      parts places actually carry that striker (the whole things... bolt and all). I have yet to find just the bushing though.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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        #4
        Help rack sells bushings. Note that there are two styles of strikers, ones that come apart to replace it, and the ones that don't. I wrapped mine with tape to correct thickness and do not have a problem. I'm cheap, and 5 bucks a striker is stupid.

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          #5
          Thank you for info. Once I deal with replacing mine P/N and costs will be shared.

          Comment


            #6
            Give it a few wraps of electrical tape. That'll hold you over until you get around to getting your hands on bushings.

            Alex.

            Comment


              #7
              I hadn't been sure if I could replace them... I epoxied mine back into place
              But sounds like you lost yours already?

              Comment


                #8
                Well I hear you on spending wisely and now that I have purchased two an idea comes to mind on how to fix the backdoor strikers.

                With that said it sure is nice to have the door shut securely, no rattling, no outside noise when driving.

                Plastic Bag Labeled:
                ONE
                E9AZ-5422008-A
                STRIKER

                Above Bar Code
                F201C 831857 032411

                List Price: $34.83
                Net Price: $23.22
                Location is Southern California Ford Dealership

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ringting View Post
                  Well I hear you on spending wisely and now that I have purchased two an idea comes to mind on how to fix the backdoor strikers.

                  With that said it sure is nice to have the door shut securely, no rattling, no outside noise when driving.

                  Plastic Bag Labeled:
                  ONE
                  E9AZ-5422008-A
                  STRIKER

                  Above Bar Code
                  F201C 831857 032411

                  List Price: $34.83
                  Net Price: $23.22
                  Location is Southern California Ford Dealership
                  Holy fuck lol. Pretty sure the '89 you can just replace the bushing mang. The '89+ have the replaceable bushings. The ones that have that 'L' shaped bracket going behind the striker is the type that can be replaced. Val's wrecked '89 had these as well. The earlier ones just had the striker, with no 'L' shaped bracket, like mine, and the striker is nonservicable, save for wrapping them in tape.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    What makes them non-servicable?

                    Alex.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I couldn't get the bolts out of the fat washers in my 85...
                      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                      sigpic
                      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post
                        I couldn't get the bolts out of the fat washers in my 85...
                        That makes them unservicable. The later ones can thread out of the washer.

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                          #13
                          door latches

                          I just found a few from back doors that were in good shape free at the u pull it. Alot of rear doors hardly ever get used.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Quick review proved the threaded bolt (torque 50) can be pulled out. Hopefully I can measure and photo this weekend.

                            I only installed one of the two purchased so the plastic collar will be measured and posted. Will not be able to determine hardness. Any ideas?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well I attempted giving you pictures however the little dots just kept circling.

                              Metal bolt/stud: torque 50, clear plastic tape wrapped around area where plastic sleeve covers (maybe teflon tape)
                              Grey Plastic Sleeve: 15/16 long, 11/16 OD, 1/2 ID, 3/32 Wall thickness

                              I promote the Red Green approach if you still have plastic sleeve in place.

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