rear control arm bushings

[sly]

I know there's info somewhere about which poly bushings to get for the rear, but I can't seem to find it.

Found the front info: energy 4.3150

[87gtVIC]

Picture taken in Scott's garage two weeks ago.

[sly]

thanks

[1987cp]

Timely thread, as I've been thinking about rear bushings as well.

Installation goes the same as the fronts, burn 'em out, clean the shells, and slide in the new ES bits?

[packman]

This is the rear diff after I removed the carrier pin, reataining bolt, and then the axles which are held in by the C-clips.



I drilled out the stock rubber bushings. Be careful when doing this. I did fine on the first bushing, but I got a little too hasty and got the metal shell of the second bushing.





Here come the questions. Which way do these polygraphite bushings go into the metal sleeves?




I'm thinking this way, but I can't be too sure. I think the capped end of the bushing goes into the not capped end of the metal sleeve. Then you place the bushing collar on the other end before it's placed in the upper trailing arm? I got time to think about this since I still have to mark the rotted spring perches, grind them off, and weld new spring perches onto the axle tubes.



BTW, these are '92-'97 Crown Vic/Grand Marquis polygraphite rear bushings; since they don't seem to make them for boxes. Since these are not made for boxes, are there any tricks or things I need to know before installing these? [/QUOTE]


Second picture from the bottom is the way they're intalled onto our rear diffs. PST doesn't go by part number; just by application. IDK if these are the same as Scott's.



Packman

[1987cp]

I remember now seeing those pics.

[86VickyLX]

It's easier to burn the bushings on the rear if the rear is out of the car. If not do as Packman did. As for the arm bushings, you burn them out. Pretty straight forward, just a bitch cause some of the bolts are rusted fast.

[1987cp]

Yeah, I'm counting on most of them being rusted solid whenever I get around to trying this.

[86VickyLX]

Oxyacetelene Torches are your friend for this problem. PB blast the shit out of them a couple of times before you go at it too

[1987cp]

lol ... I don't have an oxy torch, but I've had good luck in the past getting most anything loose with enough PB Blaster and enough patience with a normal propane torch. Heat the nut till the rust is starting to spark, quench it with PB Blaster, set the PB Blaster on fire and torch for a while, quench it with PB Blaster again ... yep. Oh, and try not to set things like carpeting on fire.

I keep eyeing that nice $300 Port-a-torch kit at Tractor Supply Company, though.

[packman]

The method I used is a PITA, but it works when fire is prohibited. Make sure your drill bits are sharp and that teh diameter isn't larger than the space between the bolt shank (shell) and the metal bushing shell.



Packman

[Lincolnmania]

two hole saws for removing the bushings on the rear.......one is 1" the other i'm not sure of the size

[1987cp]

The method I used is a PITA, but it works when fire is prohibited. Make sure your drill bits are sharp and that teh diameter isn't larger than the space between the bolt shank (shell) and the metal bushing shell.

Oh, that's right, you guys get arrested instantly if anyone suspects you've taken a wrench out of the toolbox.

[1987cp]

Hey, I just realized that dumb bushing kit costs $100. That's a big step up from the $55 for the front bushing kit!

[sly]

did you also notice the wonky shapes that some of those bushings use?