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    rear end swap n00bisms

    Sorry to pester you all with more questions, but there's a whole lot I don't know that I'd like to.


    What needs to be done to separate the axle from frame besides shocks? My limited knowledge tells me there are control arms and then the bolts above the pumpkin (#?) through the bushings.



    What needs to be replaced besides the rotors/calipers/pads, and the internals of the axle? I'm talking bushings etc and parking brake bits...I'd like a functioning parking brake but if it's $$$ to replace everything, fuck it. As long as it works once to pass inspection If there's stuff I can get away without replacing, GREAT.


    Also - I have a sway bar for my 1990 that I wanted to install. Can I still use it with the 95 rear axle since it only bolts to the control arms, or are they located further outboard?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    Brake hose from the axle to the body, and the emergency brake cables.

    Alex.

    Comment


      #3
      What do I need to do in order to separate the rear axle from the car? As I understand it, it has the two shocks holding it up, and control arms holding it on. Also the bolts through the bushings etc above the pumpkin.


      How do I deal with all of this? I can unbolt the shock easily enough, and since the air suspension is fucked the bags will probably just drop out. Can I just cut the control arms instead of futzing around under the car trying to get leverage?

      How about the bolts that hold the pumpkin up - How many are there, what are they, and are they difficult to get out? Do I reuse those bolts when I put the rear under my 1990? Any advice in that regard would be greatly appreciated, fellas.

      I basically need an idiots version of how to drop a rear axle. Car is supported on jackstands in front of the rear wheel....do I stick two more jackstands under the axle tubes on either side? After that will I be able to break out my sawzall and make some sparks fly?
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        The bolts in the bushings are the upper control arms.

        There are 4 control arms. If you are changing bushings, you have to remove the arms from the car. That is 8 bolts.

        The shocks, the brake line, and the emergency brake cables also have to be removed. The RSB if you have one.

        Technically you don't have to remove the driveshaft ()... but I certainly would.
        **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
        **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
        **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
        **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
          The bolts in the bushings are the upper control arms.

          There are 4 control arms. If you are changing bushings, you have to remove the arms from the car. That is 8 bolts.

          The shocks, the brake line, and the emergency brake cables also have to be removed. The RSB if you have one.

          Technically you don't have to remove the driveshaft ()... but I certainly would.
          Speaking of the driveshaft, that's 4 12mm 12 point bolts. Have PB blaster, heat and a big breaker bar ready.

          Comment


            #6
            thanks, already have the 12mm 12pt from when I did my universals.
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              When I'm dropping the rear axle, what can I just sawzall through instead of fucking around underneath the car? Unbolting rusted on lower shock bolts is a bitch under the car, can I just cut the shock (not the fluid-filled tube obviously) and just worry about it later?


              how about the LCAs? can I just chop through them?


              Will the sway bar from my 1990 still work? since it goes through the control arms and not to the rear end itself.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                When I'm dropping the rear axle, what can I just sawzall through instead of fucking around underneath the car? Unbolting rusted on lower shock bolts is a bitch under the car, can I just cut the shock (not the fluid-filled tube obviously) and just worry about it later?


                how about the LCAs? can I just chop through them?


                Will the sway bar from my 1990 still work? since it goes through the control arms and not to the rear end itself.
                The sway bar from the 90 will still work.
                You can cut the shock.
                You can cut the lower control arms
                You can cut the upper control arms
                If it's not an aluminum driveshaft (cause they're nice) you can cut the driveshaft. lol
                SAVE THE WHOLE PARKING BRAKE CABLE ASSEMBLY!

                Comment


                  #9
                  the driveshaft appears rusted so not aluminum. thanks john.
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment

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