Front end is finally rebuilt 1991 GM..LS I have a couple of questions.....

[stinkydogfilms]

I finally got it finished. Cost some dough this time. I have Energy Suspension Sway bar bushings and links. Also got ES both front upper control arm bushings and both lower control arm bushings. Both upper and lower ball joints were replaced, Put Bilstein HD shocks on the front and HD Bilstein shocks on the back. Also put 245/60/15 BFG'S on the 15x8 steelies.
Most of my driving is done under 60 MPH. Usually in heavy freeway in town traffic. Car handles MUCH MORE responsive, very firm. The rear shocks are too firm for the rear, I get a lot of wheel hop going over bumps,(bum,bum,bump) road racer feel to it, however upon aceleration or quick lane changes I can feel the rear shocks working. I am close to getting the slot car road racer feeling. Car steers very easy with just thumbs and a finger. I have to avoid inattentive drivers several times on a daily basis on rough bumpy roads so I need to be able to respond quickly. I never drive it out of town.

This GM is a LO PO 302 that is stock with some MSD stuff and a K & N air filter.

I am looking forward to installing a rear sway bar next then in a couple of months add a 3.55 or 3.73 rear gears. It has the 2.73 in it now.
1. Any pros and cons on these two gear ratios?
2. I would like to ask what are the handling differences with solid bushings on the control arms?
3. Any suggestions to the front and rear sway bar diameters? I have the stock civillian bar up front with no rear bar.

Thank you.

P.S. I'm starting to love the torque game

[86VickyLX]

Get either a wagon hallow bar (lighter and has about the same rigidity of police bar), or a police front bar. Police rear bar.

Your highway mileage will suffer if you go fast. I've seen and calculated fuel economy on one '86 Town Car with 3.73s with original AOD getting 21mpg.

I've also seen an '86 Town Car with 3.55 and rebuilt AOD getting 17.5 so...

Your off the line acceleration will be better.

[gadget73]

if you're not planning on going with an HO, a 3.55 might be better. The lopo has massive low end torque, but terrible high rpm power. Its done with by 4200 rpm, and a 3.73 gear will get you to where the motor makes no power more rapidly. 'course if you don't do much over 60, then its not gonna matter a whole lot. 3.55 gears may be more available used, so thats a consideration if you're on a budget.


solid bushings? like for the old police style upper arms? I wouldn't do it. Those arms are generally regarded as unserviceable because the parts aren't available anymore. I would definitely not do solid on the lower arms or in the rear. The poly bushings are considerably siffer than the rubber and you've got an idea of how that feels. Imagine turning the car into a skateboard as far as road noise and harshness go without a significant improvement in handling. Solid in the rear would probably make the arms break. They rely on bushing deflection to make up for the horrible geometry. Without the bushing to give, the arm and the mounting points take all the abuse and one or both will give up eventually.

[stinkydogfilms]

another two questions

Thank you for the replies. I don't think my gas mileage can suffer much worse. I am getting around 15-17 MPG on freeway stop and go during rush hour 1 way for about 30 minutes and 60-65 MPH (15-20 minutes) coming home with no traffic. My speedometer is not caliberated correctly so I try not to go too fast. I went past a radar trailer the police put out to show your speed. When I was going 25 mph the radar said 33 and when I went by it at 30 mph the radar said I was doing 41.

The 3.55 gears do seem to be the one to go with. I agree that without top end power no sense for a 3.73

I am curious though how much of an ET difference would be between the 3.55 and the 3.73 at the 1/4 mile with a stock lo po with a mild shift kit in the AOD? The trans was rebuilt 2 years ago for $600.00. I think it was an incredible deal.

I think I figured why I have so much bounce. The mechanic left the top washer, bushing and nut off of the top of the shock on the right rear. Damn, I cannot wait to get this fixed along with one rim that doesn't seal at the valve stem hole.

1. Can you get replacement shock washer, bushing mounting kits from NAPA or Auto Zone? These are for Bilstein shocks with an 11/16 nut on top.

2. How much would the cost be to have a shop install a 3.55 traction lock going from a 2.73 open rear?

Thank you again.

[86VickyLX]

Thank you for the replies. I don't think my gas mileage can suffer much worse. I am getting around 15-17 MPG on freeway stop and go during rush hour 1 way for about 30 minutes and 60-65 MPH (15-20 minutes) coming home with no traffic. My speedometer is not caliberated correctly so I try not to go too fast. I went past a radar trailer the police put out to show your speed. When I was going 25 mph the radar said 33 and when I went by it at 30 mph the radar said I was doing 41.

The 3.55 gears do seem to be the one to go with. I agree that without top end power no sense for a 3.73

I am curious though how much of an ET difference would be between the 3.55 and the 3.73 at the 1/4 mile with a stock lo po with a mild shift kit in the AOD? The trans was rebuilt 2 years ago for $600.00. I think it was an incredible deal.

I think I figured why I have so much bounce. The mechanic left the top washer, bushing and nut off of the top of the shock on the right rear. Damn, I cannot wait to get this fixed along with one rim that doesn't seal at the valve stem hole.

1. Can you get replacement shock washer, bushing mounting kits from NAPA or Auto Zone? These are for Bilstein shocks with an 11/16 nut on top.

2. How much would the cost be to have a shop install a 3.55 traction lock going from a 2.73 open rear?

Thank you again.

1. Did you recently buy new shocks? If so tell them set never came with them and they should supply you with a replacement. I'm not too sure if they sell just the bushing kits. However, they appear to look the same as sway bar bushings and washers fwiw. But they're expensive.

2. That depends on the condition of everything else. They might recommend new axles, so add a couple hundred dollars to the bill. The cost of a rear end rebuild kit, and axle bearings and seals. Fluid and friction modifier. The actual setting up of the new carrier (since each one is different to each case). Shim kits and all that. It could take a while, it might not take too long. But at the most you're looking at a few hours. So convert that into whatever shops around you are charging.