towing hitch

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Hey guys, what is a good brand of towing hitch for the Panther chassis? Also are they all the same from 79-02 as far as installation goes?

[Mercracer]

I have a Hidden Hitch. I have an older version of the 87408. It fits 79+ Panthers. 1985+ Town cars have to use 3/8" spacer blocks between the vehicle frame and the hitch. Other than that, installation is quick and painless. Having a second set of hands makes things easier, but I put mine in alone with a floor jack. I had to drill 2 holes in the frame. 2 bolts went in existing holes and 2 I had to drill.

[gadget73]

I think mine is a Draw-Tite, but I'm not really sure. The logos are now painted over. Its been on there since 1986 and its a bit crusty looking but it seems fine. No spacer blocks on mine though, but it may be slightly different from hitch to hitch. Also, how much weight are you planning to haul? Mine is a Class 3 that is capable of quite a bit more than the car can really tow. Most people don't need that, but the larger receiver is sort of nice if only because they are more common.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Thanks for the replies guys, I am thinking of towing a small U-haul trailer single axle, or a single axle pop-up camper. Ideally a small single axle hard-sided camper but I think that would be overdoing it a bit. I will be running the cargo coil springs so those should help right?

[marquisman]

hiden hitch, draw-tite and reese are the ones im familiar with and are all good products. stay away from the universal hitches, they tend to fit weird. either too low or the bumper interfears.

[Southern_Pride]

I built mine. Tucks nice and high so it doesn't drag.

[marquisman]

the previous owner of my wagon sorta did the same thing. the reciver its up and flush to the bumper.

[GoodSamaritan]

I just installed my new Reese Class II last night. (I couldn't find anyone offering a class III and this one was 125$ shipped from advance auto parts. It was the best deal I could find new)

It used two existing holes, and I had to drill a couple. One warning though. Make sure the rear most bolts are tight before drilling your holes though.
Mine wasn't as tight as I thought and it moved about 1/4" on towards the front of the car while I was drilling the last hole. I had to redo that one so it is a bit elongated, but with the other three holes, secure, and as tight as I've got everything, it's not going anywhere.
The whole thing barely extends below the rear fold up seat well, if it does at all. The piece they give you with it comes out and curves up to put the bottom of the ball about 1/2" above the bottom of the rear bumper. So far it looks like it'll be just about perfect.

I can snap a pic tomorrow if you like.

My only complaint was that the wire they give you to fish the bolt through the frame was a bit short. I just extended it about 6" with a bit more wire and some tape. It came with plenty of hardware too. Now I just need to pick up a new 2" ball and a harness to run my trailer lights, then I'll be in business.

[gadget73]

One thing I've noticed with some hitches is that they come with sort of shoddy hardware. I've pulled hitches off that had grade 3 carriage bolts. Maybe I just like things overkill, but I'd really prefer a grade 5 or 8 in that slot, and zinc plated if possible to help resist rust. I've seen hitch bolts rot and snap before. Its inconvenient at best, and dangerous at worst. You really do not want the hitch seperating from the tow vehicle at speed with a heavy load back there.

[Southern_Pride]

Grade 8 Only. The hitch on my car is currently bent and I bent the previous one. The tube that goes from frame rail to frame rail. The current one is 2"x3" tubing I think and fairly thick. Definitely don't want the bolts to snap.