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    #16
    Originally posted by Piece-it pete View Post
    I regret using the superthick energy front spring bushings with stock springs. The front end definately sits higher. Though I suppose if I had the right rear springs it wouldn't matter as much.

    Is your TC a daily driver? If so even if you're not doing the big brake swap I'd get JY control arms and change the bushings and ball joints 1st. And you really need the inside spring compressor, the outside ones won't work. Just passing on what I did wrong

    Pete
    JY?

    I tried the inside one but it wouldnt fit throught the lower a arm when I was removing the old ones.
    Town Coupe [X]
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      #17
      Sounds like you already have junkyard control arms on hand, or at least one loose and one installed. The uppers are the troublesome ones because you may have to dig the bushings out with a pick or screwdriver after burning them, and then carefully grind somewhat on the control arm shaft so you can slide it out for cleaning. The lowers are super-easy, just torch the bushings for a minute or two and they shoot right out and set your lawn on fire!

      Balljoints are quite easy IMO; can even do them on the car with relative ease. Just make sure you rent the big C-clamp balljoint press from AutoZone when you do the lowers.

      FWIW, I used a compressor on Panther springs exactly once, and it was a big waste of time. And that was with 390 lb/in springs, which should logically be the tallest in free height for a given application.
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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        #18
        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
        Was this the case even with the superthick ES spring insulators installed? (though granted, the P72/5.0L/original springs/ES insulators still sits lower in front than the '81 with the 5.0L and its original fronts, whatever they are)
        Yes. Not so sure I'd call the ES ones "super thick". Mine are only like 1/4" thick. My car sits a little higher than Scott's does, but my springs are 2 years old where his are 25 years old so its not really a fair comparison. It may be slightly higher than it would have been in 1986, but it looks pretty much like a normal ride height to me. I've never measured the ride height to compare to the factory manuals though.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #19
          Really? The ones that came with my bushing kit were probably at least 3/4" thick, maybe more. Silly of me not to have bothered measuring them ...
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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            #20
            Yeah, I think mine were 1" thick. I suppose if you used the same ones on the back too....

            BBM, sorry, JY = junkyard. I haven't used compressors to remove old ones, only install new ones.

            Pete
            Originally posted by gadget73
            For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


            2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
            1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
            1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Piece-it pete View Post
              Yeah, I think mine were 1" thick. I suppose if you used the same ones on the back too....

              BBM, sorry, JY = junkyard. I haven't used compressors to remove old ones, only install new ones.

              Pete
              I unbolted everything so the a arm would fully extend and they came out. Not so bad. Im hoping for the install I can put them in and use a jack to compress them.
              Town Coupe [X]
              Mark VI [ ]
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              Crown Victoria Coupe
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                #22
                Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                Interesting about your springs. I don't suppose you have a caliper to measure the wire diameter? The rate is calculated by the wire diameter, coil diameter, and the number of free coils, so you could easily use that info to verify your current spring rate (as I did).
                I took the secong one out.

                Heres the info-

                HIP
                D9AC-5310-HA
                66.6/10140

                Not sure how to decode it. Maybe youll have better luck.
                Town Coupe [X]
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                  #23
                  Sorry, I don't know jack about what a part number means without a reference. I'm actually shocked yours had a PN tag, as none of mine do (that I can remember seeing). Thus the reason I measured the spring physically and calculated the rate.

                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                    #24
                    How do lower ball joints come out? Haynes says "non serviceable must replace whole control arm"
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                    Mark VI [ ]
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                    Crown Victoria Coupe
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                      #25
                      Originally posted by BBMK790 View Post
                      How do lower ball joints come out? Haynes says "non serviceable must replace whole control arm"
                      NVM. Read another post where this was referred to.
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                        #26
                        The Ford official way says to buy a new arm because it comes with new bushings and a ball joint. This really isn't bad advice since when the LBJ is shot, the bushings usually are too but those are probably no longer available. For the rest of us, we get a ball joint press and impact tools and make it come apart.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          The Ford official way says to buy a new arm because it comes with new bushings and a ball joint. This really isn't bad advice since when the LBJ is shot, the bushings usually are too but those are probably no longer available. For the rest of us, we get a ball joint press and impact tools and make it come apart.
                          Thank god I have impact tools. Oh wait............
                          Town Coupe [X]
                          Mark VI [ ]
                          Grand Marquis Coupe [ ]
                          Crown Victoria Coupe
                          [ ]

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                            #28
                            Yep, you rent (for free) a C-clamp looking balljoint press kit from AutoZone. Works great. I used it with just a 1/2" ratchet IIRC (though the impact made control arm removal a lot easier).
                            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                              #29
                              Even if you don't have impact tools, the ball joint press make the job a hell of a lot easier. I don't have any impact tools and I was able to do it. However, I just tried out somebody's ELECTRIC 1/2" impact gun from Harbor Freight and it is a *mean* motherfucker. Also is only like $70. Great if you don't have an air compressor worth a shit (mines only good for a nailgun and tires, pretty much).
                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                              91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                              93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                              Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                              Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                              95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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                                #30
                                press and a breakover bar work wonders too. Impact just snugs it down faster. I've had times when the impacts wouldn't break stuff free, but me on a breakover bar would.

                                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                                Originally posted by dmccaig
                                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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