Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Play in steering

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Play in steering

    I have replaced everything on my front suspention but it still has play in the steering wheel. Do I need to chg or upgrade the steering boxs to get this play out? Its driving me nuts
    91 w/ 5.0 with eibach springs for a SS Impala ,hd police shocks on front w/big brake uprade,rear shocks for F-150 HD. Dual s w/ glass packs, 15X8 A/R Wheels 5% Tint on rear.http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...l.php?id=11699sigpic

    #2
    Have you tried having someone wiggle the steering wheel while you watch every bit of linkage to see where the slop is? Better yet, with the engine running, wiggle the steering shaft yourself and look. This is what I did. If you crack the nut loose on top of the steering box, you can turn the slotted bolt in 90 degrees at a time to take up some of the slop in the box. Be careful though, if you go too tight it'll bind.
    1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

    Comment


      #3
      could be play in the steering gear as previously mentioned, could be play in the steering linkage also.......if it's in the steering box and it's alot, i would just install a reman steering box, if you want more of a road feel, find a 99-02 crown vic police car steering box......you will need to make a custom pressure hose but on a 91 it bolts in

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

      Comment


        #4
        I heard '97 was a magical year for steering boxes, maybe that's just for me. It's got the better feel you're alluding to and perhaps doesn't require said custom line?
        1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
          could be play in the steering gear as previously mentioned, could be play in the steering linkage also.......if it's in the steering box and it's alot, i would just install a reman steering box, if you want more of a road feel, find a 99-02 crown vic police car steering box......you will need to make a custom pressure hose but on a 91 it bolts in
          '91 has a different pressure hose?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Crownvicman289 View Post
            I heard '97 was a magical year for steering boxes, maybe that's just for me. It's got the better feel you're alluding to and perhaps doesn't require said custom line?
            could that just be the difference between worn and new/remanned? I know that I'd probably feel like my hands were dragging on the asphalt compared to how it is right now even if I had a new 1985 style box put on.

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
              '91 has a different pressure hose?
              no, but the steering column will take the later coupler without any nonsense.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the info. Have thought about a newer PI gear boxs might just do that would like a tighter feel...How hard is it to fab a new pressure hose?
                91 w/ 5.0 with eibach springs for a SS Impala ,hd police shocks on front w/big brake uprade,rear shocks for F-150 HD. Dual s w/ glass packs, 15X8 A/R Wheels 5% Tint on rear.http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...l.php?id=11699sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Does "everything" really include everything? Tie rids, balljoints, control arm bushings, Pitman arm, idler arm? Replacing the Pitman and idler arms made a huge difference on one of my cars.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    My steering wheel in the P71 has some pretty serious play also, it gets frustrating. I have been told by a couple garages its the steering box...but I'm too cheap to replace it cuz its like $400 with core charge.
                    -2004 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor - Daily Driver - 17" Bullitt's, 235/55/17 Goodyear Eagles, Ex-NH State Police, best 1/4 mile time; 15.3 @ 90 mph
                    -1987 Crown Victoria 2-Door - Project - 90k miles, Summit chambered muffler, Sunpro gauges, parked since 2010, fate tbd

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Ouch. I thought a new or rebuilt steering box was only like $200 tops?
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                        Ouch. I thought a new or rebuilt steering box was only like $200 tops?
                        Ive never checked a rebuilt one. I know that new they aint cheap, with the core charge and everything. Hmmm maybe I will look into a rebuilt one, cuz that steering wheel really gets to me sometimes kinda takes away some of the enjoyment of driving the car having to keep her on track all the time.
                        -2004 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor - Daily Driver - 17" Bullitt's, 235/55/17 Goodyear Eagles, Ex-NH State Police, best 1/4 mile time; 15.3 @ 90 mph
                        -1987 Crown Victoria 2-Door - Project - 90k miles, Summit chambered muffler, Sunpro gauges, parked since 2010, fate tbd

                        Comment


                          #13
                          This is really easy stuff to figure out on your own. With the engine running, grab the steering shaft and rotate it back and forth until just before the rims start to turn. As you're doing this, look at the idler/pitman arms to see if anything is moving without them. If the pitman arm doesn't move, then your slop is in the box. You can try tweaking the tension on the center bushing by cracking that nut loose up top and turning the shaft in 90 degrees at a time with a flat blade screwdriver. I did this with my CV and it tightened it up noticeably. I'm going to try for one more, likely in 45 degree increments. I tried another 90 with the car off and there was virtually no slop, but if you go too tight the steering gear can bind. If these Ford boxes are like the GM boxes, which I suspect to be the case, then there's an internal adjustment as well. You can't adjust out steering gear wear, but you can take up some of the slack. If you're really feeling frisky and can live without the car for a day or 2, might I recommend rebuilding the box yourself? There's writeups out there.
                          1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                            Does "everything" really include everything? Tie rids, balljoints, control arm bushings, Pitman arm, idler arm? Replacing the Pitman and idler arms made a huge difference on one of my cars.
                            Yes all is done w/ exception to all new Poly bushings..
                            91 w/ 5.0 with eibach springs for a SS Impala ,hd police shocks on front w/big brake uprade,rear shocks for F-150 HD. Dual s w/ glass packs, 15X8 A/R Wheels 5% Tint on rear.http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...l.php?id=11699sigpic

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Crownvicman289 View Post
                              This is really easy stuff to figure out on your own. With the engine running, grab the steering shaft and rotate it back and forth until just before the rims start to turn. As you're doing this, look at the idler/pitman arms to see if anything is moving without them. If the pitman arm doesn't move, then your slop is in the box. You can try tweaking the tension on the center bushing by cracking that nut loose up top and turning the shaft in 90 degrees at a time with a flat blade screwdriver. I did this with my CV and it tightened it up noticeably. I'm going to try for one more, likely in 45 degree increments. I tried another 90 with the car off and there was virtually no slop, but if you go too tight the steering gear can bind. If these Ford boxes are like the GM boxes, which I suspect to be the case, then there's an internal adjustment as well. You can't adjust out steering gear wear, but you can take up some of the slack. If you're really feeling frisky and can live without the car for a day or 2, might I recommend rebuilding the box yourself? There's writeups out there.
                              Thanks I will try this first before new box is installed.. Other than the slop in steering the handleing is tight>
                              91 w/ 5.0 with eibach springs for a SS Impala ,hd police shocks on front w/big brake uprade,rear shocks for F-150 HD. Dual s w/ glass packs, 15X8 A/R Wheels 5% Tint on rear.http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...l.php?id=11699sigpic

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X