Rear end rebuild...

[trwp72]

OK, I want to have the rear end rebuilt in my 91... (ONLY part of the driveline that has not been rebuilt so far) I do not know the axle ratio right now (At work) I THINK it has the 3.55 ratio... (Just a guess!) Any ideas on where to buy a new one? I have looked at Summit etc... But it has been along time since I have done any rear end work on a car (About 1975 with my 58 Chevy!) I obviousley don't want to pay too much for one... and have no idea what a good price would be now days... I would like to keep the parts all Ford, if possible tho... Summits (in 3.73, Ford parts) is about $150.00. I still want to keep the stock ratio tho... as the fuel prices keep going up and up! (I get about 21 -22 MPG on the road right now) Anyone have an idea on milage on a 5.0. with the 3.73? Just a thought...


So any thoughts / ideas would be appreciated... As far as economy, price for the gear and pinion etc... I know it will probably need the ring and pinion, as the car has 200,000 miles plus...

Thanks in advance!
Tom...

[rick99601]

not that this helps..

[trwp72]

Uh, OK....

[P72Ford]

With 200K...

Plan on axles (Ebay or good JY pieces), outer bearings and seals. I'd go with a brand new trac lok, myself, which you can buy as a FRPP number from Summit.

New gears if you want (3.73s are pretty nice; buy FRPP gears), and a deluxe install kit (which will come with the rest of the bearings, seal, pinion nut, crush sleeve, gear paint, etc, etc).

You'll also need a dial caliper with a magnetic base, race driver, ft*lb and in*lb torque wrenches, a micrometer, and something to hold the pinion flange when crushing the crush sleeve. A proper length bar with holes for the pinion flange (allowing pinion nut clearance) works good. Make it long enough so that it will hit the lower control arm, so the car will provide resistance for crushing the sleeve.

I think you are looking for .008"-.012" backlash, and you want an even contact pattern.

Pinion preload depends on new or used bearings, and you can surely find these values online. There are also main cap specs which you can find online somewhere.

I'd figure $100-$250 for axles (JY-new)
$200 for new gears
$225 for a new trac lok
$100 for the install kit
$50 for outer bearings, seals, and oil (with friction modifer if you do go TL).

$40 for a dial caliper with mag base, $30 for an HF race driver kit, and then the torque wrenches, mic and the cost of making your pinion flange 'wrench'.

If I forgot anything... this was just a quick run through.

[gabegt90]

yeah i had to replace everything in my rear. should of seen how much the shafts were worn in. I did get better fuel economy when it was all finished

[trwp72]

P72Ford...
Thanks for the info, but this will be done by a shop I use, I do not have the place to do this (No garage) The rear end is still in good shape (I.E.---no noise from the bearings, only "slop" is in the pinion, so it has a slight "clunk" when going into gear) I just want to go thru the last remaining thing on the driveline... I will see if it needs the axles... when we get it apart. I can get them locally brand new inside of an hour, so if they need replacing, I have a source. Main thing I was concerned with was the ring and pinion... But we will know more once we open the rear end up... I also want to change out all the seals, as all of them are starting to "seep" Especially the pinion seal... I am not concerned with putting a locker in it or anything else in it that isn't alread there... As I don't drag race it or anything like that. I will know more tommorow, as he wants to see what is in it as far as gear ratio etc.... and check the condition...

[gadget73]

Honestly the gears themselves are probably fine. What you typically need are bearings and seals, and quite possibly a set of axle shafts as well. The axles often have pits and wear marks in them where the bearings ride on them. If its got a traction lock, that will need rebuilding, but I really doubt you need the ring and pinion set.

[rick99601]

i smell a 3:73 R&P upgrade

[trwp72]

I smell a 3:73 R&P upgrade

Actually, no... the 3.73 will cut my fuel milage, which I DON'T want! (I drive 70 miles a day to work, round trip... 4 days out of the week...) With fuel going up, and up again... Just don't want an extra expense... Would be nice, but I also have to think about the milage going to shows... (Like Chicago, almost 1000 miles from here) I think I will be trying to get a house closer to work, with at least a two car garage, soon, like in the next month or so... I am tried of driving every day! Would be nice to be home in a few minutes, instead of at least an hour! Tom...

[1990LTD]

With the 3.73s you'll be home even quicker

[packman]

I'm doing the same rebuild. I have yet to buy the dial caliper. Well actually, I got one, it doesn't have a magnetic base though. I'm waiting for the weather to get a little warmer before attempting to unbury the rear diff. I gave up looking for a K or even E code rear and got a 2.73 open diff to rebuild. The spring perches are rotted and need to be ground off and replaced. Just waiting for one warm-ish day (40*???)


Packman

[1980c10]

I think I had $600-700 in mine by the time it was done. But I didnt have to buy any tools.
FRPP gears, deluxe rebuild kit, trac lok rebuild kit, new bearings and junk through out. The only thing I didnt do was axles because they where still good, other than that it is fresh end to end.

[86VickyLX]

How far do you want to go into this rebuild? If money is no object then get new ring and pinion gears, replace the carrier side and spider gears, bearings and seals.

Normally, you can reuse the ring and pinion gears, and the carrier. If you wish to keep that all original, that's no problem, just replace the bearings. You'll need a rear rebuild kit (comes with carrier bearings (and races), pinion bearings (and races), crush collar, carrier shims (shouldn't need, and sometimes ring gear bolts (shouldn't need)), an inch pound torque wrench to measure pinion bearing preload, a means of tightening the pinion shaft nut until proper pinion bearing preload is achieved (20-25 inch pound rotating torque with new bearings), a foot pound torque wrench, lock tite for the pinion shaft nut and carrier caps, the shims that came out of the rear (put back in the same side it came out of), new axle bearings and seals (sold separately from the rebuild kit), and probably axles. Assuming this is an open rear car. All this can be applied to a traction lock, with the addition to rebuilding the carrier (new clutches, shims, etc)

What code sticker is on your door? If you don't have a door sticker, what's the tag on the rear say?

[trwp72]

86VickyLX... Like I said in an earlier post, I have a shop that is going to do the work... So as far as dial in calipers and all that, i don't need it, he is doing all the work... I just wondered as far as milage that someone on here may get with a 3.73 to compare... if it isn't that much of a milage difference, I would think about the change. We are taking the rear cover off tommorow, and check the Ring and pinion, to see what condition it is in, and then go from there... If it is in good condition, it will probably just get bearings, seals, and things like that... (Maybe axles when we pull them and see what condition they are in) But tommorow, just a quick look at the center, then button it back up with new gear oil, until I get the parts together... Then it will go in for a day and get rebuilt...

[86VickyLX]

Need to know for sure which ratio.