Rear control arm options for the boxes

[mrltd]

We have two options for the boxes that we know of so far.

1. Box the stockers
2. Custom


A few options on the custom route.

Hiem joints on both ends, tube control arm.
Poly on one end, hiem on the other
poly on both ends, tube or box construction

I'm going to to something with the hiem joints...

[mrltd]

Well, did some looking around. It'd be damn cheap to make them, using all premade parts. Gotta love the circle track stuff.

Pre threaded hex tube:
13-16 bucks/ea (2 required)

Hiems: 2LH & 2 RH req.
$14/20/38 depending on hiem quaility

Jam nuts 4req.

2x $.30
2x $.90

Reducers 4 req
$2.25/ea

Whatever spacers are needed to center the hiems in the mount 8 req
$1.50-2.50ea.

[DuceAnAHalf]

for the spacers on my brothers car we just used a stack of washers, or just used the inner sleve out of the bushing, that we cut down.

for the lower arms you can use poly at both ends but for the upper arms you can only use poly at one end. If you use poly at both ends you will end up with bind.

for Heims i would not go with anything the best or the second best, because if one of those break you will loose control of the car, and if they do break it will break at the most in-opprotune time suck as a drag launch or a hard corner.

also our control arm bolts are metric so in order to use the SAE heims (which are about 25% of the cost of metric) you have to drill out the torque boxes to use the 1/2" bolt, and anything else factory that you use a SAE bolt in.


In the T-bird suspension the smallest bolt is a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. the smallest heim is 1/2" chrom-moly in the upper control arms. The Panhard uses 3/4" grade 8 bolts and 3/4" chrom-moly heims

[mrltd]

Uppers are pretty much something that should be left alone-at least not upgraded. From the experience and research done for my mustang, most of the higher end suspension guys don't touch the uppers at all.

So, let's see some pics....

[DuceAnAHalf]

I dont have very many detailed pictures, he has most on his camera, i got him to register at supermotors but he has never hosted any pics.

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=6633&s=21251#content

[mrltd]

looks good.

I was niticing the other morning whil I was under the wagon how close to being parallel the lowers are. Much better geometry than the mustangs..

[N A]

How does the car feel on the road and at the track?

[DuceAnAHalf]

the T-bird is harsh. it has no tag yet and it has a busted windshield so have not had the ability to really drive it.

[mrltd]

how'd you figure the mounting points for that?

[DuceAnAHalf]

how'd you figure the mounting points for that?

which ones" the axle side or the frame side

[N A]

"the T-bird is harsh..."

So this isn't something I could use on the street/daily driver?

[mrltd]

Both...Kinda wondering what to do with the wagon in time..Might want to box the mounting points on the frame and try relocatong the arms F&R..

[mrltd]

I wish Maximum Motorsports would make some custom ones. I really like the ones I had on my stang. Easy enough to make my own though, especially sine the rear lowers are laid ot as parallel as the are. NIce box job and poly bushings will prolly do.

[N A]

"the T-bird is harsh..."

So this isn't something I could use on the street/daily driver?

[DuceAnAHalf]

"the T-bird is harsh..."

So this isn't something I could use on the street/daily driver?

yeah you could it depends on how much road noise and vibrations you can stand.

the upper mounts on the axle are parallel to the lowers the front mount is pretty much in the center of the torque boxes. The arms are about as long as possible to limit the amount of rotation they impart on the axle during up and down movement